Chain stripper has broken out of Lofrans Tirges windlass

[Tayana42]

On my 1989 Tayana V 42 the original windlass has been going strong until the ss bolts holding the chain stripper to the cast aluminum housing of the windlass corroded and sheared off. The stripper was bolted to two raised " nipples" cast to take the bolts for the stripper. A well intended person tried drilling the bolts out and ended up drilling new holes next to and overlapping the old ones. In short order the bolts ripped out of these new holes. My research led me to no way to repair the cast aluminum so as a temporary measure I glued the stripper back on with JB Weld. Surprisingly, it worked for a few months but just gave up tonight. Anyone have a solution other than go out and buy a new windlass?


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[speakeasy]

Same thing happened to my tigress a couple of years back in La Paz. Stripper bent, then broke with chunks coming out of the casing and I figured it was irreparable. But I took it to one of many fabricators here, who cleaned up the casing, inserted sleeves for the stripper bolts and so far, touch wood, it has worked normally.

[Tayana42]

Thanks speakeasy, good to know. I'll check with some fabricators here. Any other ideas anyone?


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[sparrowhawk1]

Are the old bolts out?

[Tayana42]

No, they are still in the old holes, but the cast nipples they bolt into are damaged from the new holes drilled into them.


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[sparrowhawk1]

Okay you need a center punch and if the side of the bolt is drilled out just go to the center of what's left. start with a small drill bit and get bigger so you're almost touching aluminum. You should be able to unscrew any threads remaining by putting a slot head screwdriver that fits tightly weged in the hole. if that doesn't work you might have to use a cold chisel or something like it to push the threads away from the side. Depending on how much aluminum is surrounding the hole I would drill a larger hole and tap it and use bigger bolts of matching threads of course

[Tayana42]

Thanks sparrowhawk1. I'll give it a go. Problem is the windlass is mounted in the anchor well with little room to work on it, no room to get a drill at it, so I may have to pull the whole thing, disconnect power etc. to get at it. Not looking forward to that,but life is an adventure.

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[sparrowhawk1]

You've the wheel off right?

[sparrowhawk1]

And it might be worth getting a cheap angle drill

[bobconnie]

I know it's a lot of work to remove it! But it's the best way to get it right ! and will save ya time and money in the long run !! And ya will have something ya can depend on, not something jury rigged to save some time !! Im not raggin on ya ! cus I learned this the hard way ! sometimes tryin to save time costs bigger money !! Just my 2 cents after 30 yrs fixin stuff and messin up LOL

[Tayana42]

Sparrowhawk1, Yes the wheel is off. I do have a cheap 90 degree drill attachment. It may fit. Will check tomorrow.

Bobconnie, thanks for the advice. I'm sure you're right. If I pull it out I'll probably learn something too.

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[Steve Bean]

I second Sparrowhawk's advice and would suggest trying a screw extractor (E- Z-out) once you have a nice hole drilled into the center of the broken bolt. To start the hole right in the center you might grind it flat with a Dremel or small die grinder before using the center punch. Some penetrating oil and heat might help when you try to turn it out. In fact, I would start soaking the bolts with penetrating oil as soon as possible. If all this fails, I would drill as much as it takes to get the bolts out, and get a qualified welder to rebuild the aluminum bosses, drill and tap for new screws. I recommend removing the windlass first.

[FlyingCloud1937]

Yep,

You also will need a slow speed high torque drill. If you over heat the SS bolt remains, you are screwed.

Next use only left hand twist drill bits start small but not to small, say 7mm. Also you wold be wise to set up a 5 gallon water jug, with a small hose to continually drip water at the drill/bolt interface.

Don't use an easy out on SS, if it breaks the game is over.

I have found with 3 left hand drill sizes by the time you get to the last one the bolt just might back it's self out by the end of the job.

Lloyd

Originally Posted by bobconnie

I know it's a lot of work to remove it! But it's the best way to get it right ! and will save ya time and money in the long run !! And ya will have something ya can depend on, not something jury rigged to save some time !! Im not raggin on ya ! cus I learned this the hard way ! sometimes tryin to save time costs bigger money !! Just my 2 cents after 30 yrs fixin stuff and messin up LOL

[Tayana42]

Thanks Flying Cloud and Steve Bean.

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[sparrowhawk1]

Originally Posted by Tayana42

Sparrowhawk1, Yes the wheel is off. I do have a cheap 90 degree drill attachment. It may fit. Will check tomorrow.

Bobconnie, thanks for the advice. I'm sure you're right. If I pull it out I'll probably learn something too.

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I don't think I would use a 90-degree attachment it's too hard to control in an already awkward situation. There are drills made with 90 degree turns right after the chuck. And if you don't feel like you can make an accurate hole, I agree with everyone else, go through the extra work and pull the windlass. you don't want to screw it up ( pun intended)