Chain to rope splice

[Rucksta]

When splicing 8 plait rope to chain two types of splice are predominant.

Type 1 brings the rope strands through a chain link then the strands are tucked back into the rope.

Type 2 has the rope strands interwoven along the chain passing through multiple links.

Which type works best with an anchor windlass equipped with a gypsy?

What other pros & cons are there with each type of 8 strand rope to chain splice?

[BillKny]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

When splicing 8 plait rope to chain two types of splice are predominant.

Type 1 brings the rope strands through a chain link then the strands are tucked back into the rope.

Type 2 has the rope strands interwoven along the chain passing through multiple links.

Which type works best with an anchor windlass equipped with a gypsy?

What other pros & cons are there with each type of 8 strand rope to chain splice?

There are not a lot of gypsys that can handle both rope and chain, but for those that can, the "Type 2" splice works.

[rslifkin]

The type of 1 splice goes though my windlass just fine.

[Uncle Bob]

The type one splice is what I have, three strand but eight strand of the same diameter will work the same, and it goes through the windlass just fine.

[MikeHoncho]

Type 1 offers less soft to hard chaffing

[Breaking Waves]

They both can run thru windless when well made, BUT most windless manufacturers recommend only type 1 (the back splice) because they have found in real-world experience with type 2 splice if the splice tension is a little off you can get a link cocked a little sideways and that can jam in the windless and stall the motor.

[skipmac]

Forget where, maybe Practical Sailor, but a few years ago read an article about tests on rope to chain splices. To my surprise, an eye splice to the end link on the chain was a good bit stronger than a long splice through multiple links of chain.

[bobgarrett]

I have tried both and neither worked well on my windlass. The tendency was to bend the pin of the guide lever.
Now I just handle the change from rope to chain by hand. That works fine.

[sv_pelagia]

Anyone with experience with rope-to-chain splice and LEWMAR V1/V2/V3 windlass?

Planning to replace rusty (but good) chain and considering adding a good length of rope.

(we have deep anchorages up North in BC)

[Shrew]

Originally Posted by sv_pelagia

Anyone with experience with rope-to-chain splice and LEWMAR V1/V2/V3 windlass?

Planning to replace rusty (but good) chain and considering adding a good length of rope.

(we have deep anchorages up North in BC)

I have a Lewmar V2 with 5/16 G40 and 5/8" 3-strand. I use 8-plait for snubbers, double braid for dock lines and 3 strand for anchor line. If I needed a large amount of anchor line to fit in the anchor locker, I'd use 8-plait.

[sv_pelagia]

Originally Posted by Shrew

I have a Lewmar V2 with 5/16 G40 and 5/8" 3-strand. I use 8-plait for snubbers, double braid for dock lines and 3 strand for anchor line. If I needed a large amount of anchor line to fit in the anchor locker, I'd use 8-plait.

Thank you!

The Lewmar manual indicates 5/8" is the maximum size rope (for the 5/16 chain gypsy). Does the chain-rope splice pass through opening and around gypsy OK? (I'm hoping "yes"....)

(Was wondering about going one size smaller for rope, but would prefer 5/8")

Our boat has upper and lower chain lockers, so no problem about extra rode stowage.

[Clivevon]

I think the length of the chain is relevant. In my case I have 50 metres of 10mm chain "long" spliced to 45 metres of 18mm nylon multiplait 8 strand. The rope is there just in case - I've never had to actually use it. I assumed that if I did use it, when hauling in I would still be securely anchored on the chain when I got to the splice. I would secure the chain & then clear the rope off the drum & feed it & the start of the chain down through the hawsepipe under my electric windlass (would be nice to have a chain locker on deck..) to stow in the lower chain locker before transferring the chain onto the gypsy & hauling away. I am assuming that I will have competent crew or else plenty of time of course..
Basically I am not expecting to use the rope & if I have to, then that need will override the occasional inconvenience factor. I'm probably not going to rip open my foredeck now - but I have thought about it..
I think the long splice must be stronger - less prone to failure through chafe in one vulnerable spot - but would be very interested to see any real world test results. I have served the splice as well - just in case..

[geoff3nebel]

I have the long splice through 10mm galv chain and it goes through my windlass - on the few times I’ve needed to use it (I have 60m of chain) without a problem.
I don’t know the physics or dynamic forces on a rope to chain join, but I feel that the longer splice spreads the load, or strain if you will, of the join: the chafe of rope against metal join is less brutal?
I’m sure someone will know of tensile strength data and answer more authoritatively

[rslifkin]

At least on mine, the back splice is tight enough that the splice can't be moved on the chain link by hand. I think the idea is that if it's good and tight, it doesn't really move. And things that don't move don't chafe.

[sv_pelagia]

Length of chain not an issue:

Currently have 300' of old chain, but considering 225' new chain and 150' rope rode, IF I'm comfortable that rope-to-chain splice will go through vertical V3 windlass.

Expecting some 80' to 100' anchorages off the beaten path in Northern BC.

Another reason we want some rope rode is to help untwist the chain (by letting out all chain occasionally in deep water so twists can sort themselves out.