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Old 18-10-2011, 12:50   #31
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Re: CQR Blues

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Originally Posted by Seahunter View Post
A 5-1 scope requires significantly more chain, a kellet or other anchor weight to maintain continuous contact to the bottom.
In strong wind the rode will never maintain continuous contact with the bottom. Dive and have a look. I have, and even my heavy chain (13mm) will lift off the bottom despite reasonable scope (say 10 or 12:1) in strong wind.
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Old 18-10-2011, 13:06   #32
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Re: CQR Blues

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Originally Posted by noelex 77 View Post
In strong wind the rode will never maintain continuous contact with the bottom. Dive and have a look. I have, and even my heavy chain (13mm) will lift off the bottom despite reasonable scope (say 10 or 12:1) in strong wind.
You doth misinterpreth moi; but are correct grasshopper, the continous contact to the ground is with the anchor. The rode in particular the chain is always moving, and working with the bridle acting together as a shock absorber between the anchor and the boat. The energy has to go somewhere.
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Old 19-10-2011, 12:20   #33
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Re: CQR Blues

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Originally Posted by Seahunter View Post
the CQR's geometry makes it almost impossible to foul. Even if you drop everything straight into a pile on the ground, the knuckle allows the haft of the anchor to roll over and lay flat and the chain just lays on top until pulled upon.
Unless the CQR is completely buried, tide changes can/do result in the chain wrapping around the anchor, fouling it. An as you mention, CQRs have a tendency to fall over on its side and being only half buried.

Tests have show anchors start to pull out when the pull is 8 degrees, that's why 7 to 1 is so magical, it gives you a 8 degree pull.
My original statement stands, IF the pull is 0 degrees, adding more chain isn't going help that much. Now whether 20' is enough is another question.
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Old 19-10-2011, 13:20   #34
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Re: CQR Blues

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Originally Posted by teejayevans View Post
Unless the CQR is completely buried, tide changes can/do result in the chain wrapping around the anchor, fouling it. An as you mention, CQRs have a tendency to fall over on its side and being only half buried.
This is true for knockoffs because in part the patent covers the shape of the haft and the geometry of the knuckle. Anybody who owns a true CQR and has tried to stow it other than on the bow of their boat will know what I'm stating. On a true CQR the plow sits flat while the haft swings geometrically to either/or side and as the plow sets the same action keeps the haft in place regardless of the tidal swing. Again while it is common for to "fall over" it rarely happens to the real CQR. Hence it is extremely rare for a true CQR to foul. This can easily be demonstrated on the beach with 5 strong men (or a tractor) and 20' of chain.

Quote:
Tests have show anchors start to pull out when the pull is 8 degrees, that's why 7 to 1 is so magical, it gives you a 8 degree pull.
My original statement stands, IF the pull is 0 degrees, adding more chain isn't going help that much. Now whether 20' is enough is another question.
I agree with your 7-1 comment but CQRs generally start to break at 3° , (you need to be almost on top of them to weigh) where the added chain enhances the shock absorbing action between the boat and the anchor. This is a problem with the CQR as it will bump along the bottom, resetting itself each time unless it's sufficiently dampened. The length of chain stabilizes the shock of sudden jerking action on the anchor. Most cruisers have 2 setups for their anchor rode. Firstly, 300' chain and secondly 100' chain to a balance of synthetic rode.
One of the biggest issues I see is the knock off substitutions for what people settle. One of the best anchors ever designed for recreational boating was the Danforth. Since the patent ran out there are a plethora of nonsensical copies that are virtually useless. The original design of both the Danforth and the CQR were for naval purposes and they worked perfectly for their designed purpose and continue to do so unless used for a purpose for which they were never designed.
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