Extending length of anchor rode

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

For non heat treated chain that is excellent advice. However, welding will anneal or partially anneal the link, and probably the one above and below the welded link. It would be very difficult to heat that link to critical, then quench it, without negatively affecting other links, I am thinking. So I would have my doubts about this, on high test chain. Is there a metallurgist in the house?

Whilst it is probable that the links being welded will be annealed the results will still be stronger than any of the joiners which will pass freely through the anchor windlass.

[Gamechanger]

I just want to thank all of the contributers who provided input in response to my question. The quality and level of detail in your responses is second to none. I haven't made a final decision yet but I now know much more than I did about the options available and the strengths/weaknesses of each option. Truly, thank all of you very very much.

[danrochas]

Hi. I'm going to the process of connecting 2 lenghts of 10mm chain right now. There are no double clevis for sale around here and the connecting links would be literally adding a weak link on the system, so I've discarded it.

So I though about a different approach which I can't find any information about: Why not use just a short lengh of 3/4 nylon (3 strand or square). Let's say about 5 feet. I would make 2 backsplices on this short piece of rope, connecting the 2 pieces of chain back on back.

I would end up with, let's say: 100ft of chain - 2 feet of spliced nylon (the 2 chain/rope splices right next to each other) - another 100 feet of chain. It should go easily through windlass gypsy and the hosepipe and be as strong as any rope/chain rode.

Pros/Cons? Ideas?

Thanks

[Souzag818]

Originally Posted by danrochas

Hi. I'm going to the process of connecting 2 lenghts of 10mm chain right now. There are no double clevis for sale around here and the connecting links would be literally adding a weak link on the system, so I've discarded it.

So I though about a different approach which I can't find any information about: Why not use just a short lengh of 3/4 nylon (3 strand or square). Let's say about 5 feet. I would make 2 backsplices on this short piece of rope, connecting the 2 pieces of chain back on back.

I would end up with, let's say: 100ft of chain - 2 feet of spliced nylon (the 2 chain/rope splices right next to each other) - another 100 feet of chain. It should go easily through windlass gypsy and the hosepipe and be as strong as any rope/chain rode.




Pros/Cons? Ideas?

Thanks

The biggest con I see would be chafe. Two pieces of chain would be lying on the ground just rubbing around what ever bottom there is-coral, sand, rocks, etc. One look at the usual rope to chain splice and seeing the chafe would be enough to dissuade me. That's why people re-splice after a while. I'd have a hard time sleeping if I had some chain dragging a two foot section of rope around.

[danrochas]

Originally Posted by danrochas

Hi. I'm going to the process of connecting 2 lenghts of 10mm chain right now. There are no double clevis for sale around here and the connecting links would be literally adding a weak link on the system, so I've discarded it.

So I though about a different approach which I can't find any information about: Why not use just a short lengh of 3/4 nylon (3 strand or square). Let's say about 5 feet. I would make 2 backsplices on this short piece of rope, connecting the 2 pieces of chain back on back.

I would end up with, let's say: 100ft of chain - 2 feet of spliced nylon (the 2 chain/rope splices right next to each other) - another 100 feet of chain. It should go easily through windlass gypsy and the hosepipe and be as strong as any rope/chain rode.

Pros/Cons? Ideas?

Thanks

Something like this!

[danrochas]

Thanks for the input.

Yes, I see that. Chafe will always be the problem when you add rope to the equation. That's why we are trying to have all (or mostly) chain in the first place!

Any r2c connection need regular attention.

Do you see it being worst then just having one piece of chain and then rope? Or would you sleep better with a hammered/glued chain link?

[Jim Cate]

Dan, I have had c-link joiners in my rodes continuously for 32 years of full time cruising. There are times I've not slept well during that period. They have never been because I was worrying about those joiners!

Unless you are using 43 grade or higher AND DEPENDING on that extra strength, they are an acceptable practice. Chain strength is seldom a cause for worry despite all the rhetoric wasted on the subject.

Jim

[Souzag818]

Originally Posted by danrochas

Thanks for the input.

Yes, I see that. Chafe will always be the problem when you add rope to the equation. That's why we are trying to have all (or mostly) chain in the first place!

Any r2c connection need regular attention.

Do you see it being worst then just having one piece of chain and then rope? Or would you sleep better with a hammered/glued chain link?

Level of sleep comfort for me: all chain, rope spliced to chain, chain joined with c links, peened over... I wouldn't do what you propose, but that's me.

[crooks]

Crosby 'C' link

[GrowleyMonster]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Dan, I have had c-link joiners in my rodes continuously for 32 years of full time cruising. There are times I've not slept well during that period. They have never been because I was worrying about those joiners!

Unless you are using 43 grade or higher AND DEPENDING on that extra strength, they are an acceptable practice. Chain strength is seldom a cause for worry despite all the rhetoric wasted on the subject.

Jim

Agree, if it's not high test chain, and the C links are Crosby or equivalent. The weak point in the whole ground tackle system is likely to be the bitts or cleats to which the anchor rode is snubbed or made fast on. Specifically, the mounting of the bitt or cleat. Or chain stopper / riding pawl.



There will always be a "weak link" (unavoidable pun, sorry) in the system, somewhere. If the strength of that weak point is acceptable, then good to go. And if not, then further improving the strength of the stronger components for the sake of strength alone is just wasted effort and money. If the weak point is the deck, I would honestly rather break the chain than have a gaping hole topside.


DISCLAIMER: Not an expert opinion. I have never anchored down for hurricane force winds in a sailboat and knock on wood but I hope I never have to.



Where is the REAL weak link? Maybe the owner, for not running off the path of the storm? Large frontal systems can hardly be avoided, but tropical cyclonic type weather generally can. And decks can be reinforced to multiples of their design strength for less than the cost of a useless windlass/chain upgrade.


Statistically, I don't think the membership here has a particularly high rate of chain failure, or for that matter, failure of deck hardware related to anchoring.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

... There will always be a "weak link" (unavoidable pun, sorry) in the system, somewhere. If the strength of that weak point is acceptable, then good to go. And if not, then further improving the strength of the stronger components for the sake of strength alone is just wasted effort and money. If the weak point is the deck, I would honestly rather break the chain than have a gaping hole topside ...

Indeed (to all of it).

[Sailor 99]

Does anyone have a source for a galvanized twin linked clevis. I can not find a galvanized version.