How do you kedge?

[Unity]

You screwed up and the boats stuck aground. What do you do to kedge off? What size / weight / type anchor (and your boat size/displacement) do you take in your dinghy or swim out? Do you use three strand, dynema, or? What length rode and what scope do you use? Any chain? Do you attach to stern, bow, midships or even halyard? What technique have you used - power from winch or windlass, pull hard or slow patience or? Stories of success and failure are awesome!

After countless hours reading and posting here (thank you all!) I’m thinking of a fortress, one size lower than a “normal sized” anchor (FX-37 on a 52 ft 45k displacement) to keep weight down, no chain (weight and seems unnecessary given the single application), 10:1 scope, pull slowly and let waves help using either sheet winch or windlass depending on problem (but not from halyard - worried about forces on rig), and a rode that is dynema for 50 feet spliced into something with a bit of stretch like poly, breaking strength around 10k). Dedicated for kedging - will use a different rig should I stern anchor or med (rare for me). But I’ve no stories (yet!) but want to be ready when it inevitably happens!

[Don C L]

Hmmm... well, full disclosure, I have not yet had to pull my boat out of the mud though I have used a smaller anchor out off the beam to keep me from getting close to rocks at low tide, but it sounds like you are describing a situation where you will be rowing the anchor out with your dinghy. I've used Danforths almost exclusively and even a small one can do well.. I'd buoy it myself whichever anchor you use because you may bury it, or get it stuck in rocks, in the kedging process and you may need to pull it up from the dinghy to re-position it. That is MUCH easier with a trip line especially with a Danforth or Fortress. With lots of scope like you say you can get away without chain, chain is a hassle in the dinghy. It is nice to have a roller mounted on the transom of a hard dinghy, or on the hard transom of an inflatable, if you are going to bring a length of chain with you (or if you are going to bring that fx55 and 30' or so of 5/8 chain out for kedging?). The line you can trail out from the dinghy of course as you go but be aware that if you dawdle getting the anchor out, just the weight of the line in its catenary will slowly be pulling you back and you may not end up with the scope you thought. I used to hang the flukes on the transom as I rowed out and then just let the line peel off from the coil in the dinghy and then it was easy to just reach forward and lift the flukes off to drop it when I reached the end and while the line was pulled out. I'd gather the 55 is too big for kedging even with your boat size.. it'll be kinda hard to wrestle that around in a dinghy.

edit: oops you said the 37, well that's too big too I'd guess.

[MartinR]

On last boat I had a fairly light 65 pound fisherman for kedging. With floating rode (polypropylene). We used it a lot, for example to get off a jetty with an onshore wind, to keep the boat off something, for mooring (2 anchors). In an emergency, though, I would have gone for the biggest anchor onboard, if necessary, sling beneath the dinghy. Biggest anchor was 250 pounds. Fisherman anchors need weight.

I think you are right, Fortress is the best choice today. Floating rode, Dyneema is a good way to go. Just make sure it is not too thin for your winches.

[RaymondR]

Done it twice. The first time was in a river with mud bottom so I used the main plow anchor and chain on the anchor winch with the chain redirected aft-wards over the sheer a piece of timber to protect the deck. The second to pull sideways out of a reef with a monster danforth type anchor and 1" poly floating line. A vertical shaft anchor winch is more suited than horizontal in these situations.

[Suijin]

I believe you’re overthinking this. Every circumstance is different and you design your tackle and tactics to fit as best you can.

Bow, stern, midships...depends on where and how you’re stuck and how you need to pull/turn the boat. Chain is usually not necessary but if the kedge won’t set put some on.

I’ve used my fortress twice to kedge off of mud. Rowed it out in the dinghy. First time used the reserve rope rode at the bow and the capstan. Second time my “second back up” rode (coiled in a cockpit locker, more convenient) and one of the primaries.

A dyneema line is an interesting idea to minimize stretch but I can’t see myself buying a few hundred feet of it to keep just for that rare application for a marginal improvement in performance.

[Mike OReilly]

I’ve only had to do this once — in a non-tidal, very remote area, which was even scarier. My boat is smaller than yours, although heavy: 37 feet, 15 tons.

My kedge anchor is a Bruce (15 kg). It has a short run of 1/2” chain (perhaps 12 feet), attached to nylon. It is fairly easy to manage in the dingy, which I think is a major consideration when you’re doing this maneuver.

So I load anchor and rode in the dingy, head off as far as possible in the direction I wanted to move. Dropped and used the main winches to dig it in. Thankfully it held solid and we managed (after many more hours) to pull ourselves off the sandbar we managed to run way up on.

If the Bruce had not held I would have broken out what I call my storm anchor, which for my boat is a Fortress-37. It is far less easily managed, especially when attached to it’s beefier rode. But that would have been my second option.

[HankOnthewater]

Did it twice, once in my boat and once to move a 54 ft cat from the rocks in a storm, on both occasions I rowed in a my dinghy.

When running aground often time is of the essence, therefore:
- have anchor ready
- have rode ready
- chain may complicate things and is heavy, so leave out
- have the right shackles in place
- if launching the dinghy takes too much time, maybe floating the anchor out on a lifebuoy may be possible (then one would need a floating rope I guess, this may need practicing!), but may be impossible if there is a lot wind or chop
- when using outboard, ensure line does not get caught in prop

When rowing against the wind, the additional drag of the rope makes it more difficult, and when you have the rope coiled on deck and row the anchor out, likely impossible, and likely you will foul the rope on deck as well (ask how I know), and a better way, and particularity if you are on your own:
- lower the anchor in the stern of the dinghy
- flake all the rope on top of the anchor
- attach the bitter end to the boat (ie on cleat)
- row out in the desired direction until you run out of rope, than let the anchor go
- row back and when on board, start winching
- when you are using an outboard and the water is not choppy, load anchor and rope in the bow and go astern in the dinghy, whilst paying out the rode.

I carry 60 mt of nylon for that purpose but a lighter and floating line would be easier to handle. Sixty metres allows me to stay anchored and sort things out, check the bilges at my leisure as I have enough rode out to hold the boat.

If you were to hook the rode onto a halyard, the mast/rigging would not break or suffer as the rigging should well be designed to deal with loads that heel the boat; just a sheave with sharp edges might damage the halyard a little, but that you can check that later.

As others said, I agree that a Fortress (or Guardian for that matter) is possible best for this purpose. I have a Fortress for that purpose. I can also use that anchor to anchor in muddy bottoms, I then use some chain in between anchor and that rode.

If you do not have a winch or capstan on the point you want to winch from, invest in a largish snatch-block, to re-direct the rode to your largest winch.

[belizesailor]

Depends.

Having worked at charter bases, Ive kedged a lot of different boats in varying circumstances. We used to show up in a work boat with lots of extra line and anchors.

Anchor. Appropriate for bottom type & vessel size. A big Fortress I think is a good general choice since loads will likely be straight line, but it may not hold in all bottom types. For cruising I dont carry a dedicated kedge anchor, just a primary and secondary which could be used for kedging.

Type of line/saftey:

Ive always worked with what was on hand...that was usually the vessel's anchor rode, dock lines, etc. You will need at least a long tail on chain so you can lead it to winches. Backlash is a very real danger and can seriously injure or kill. Lightwieght lines like dyneema reduce this issue, but fittings attached to those lines can still become dangerous projectiles (another big plus of using soft shackles). Kedge lines may be very heavily loaded and when they break, it can be quite dramatic...and potentially deadly.

A good way to learn proper techniques I think is to watch some good 4WD (offroad) winch usage/recovery videos. Randy Dahl does some good ones. Many of the techniques apply to kedging. Examples: saftey zones (stay out of inside of line angles, backlash paths...), line dampers (drape things over lines to dampen backlash), etc. Heavier/strechier lines are the most dangerous, but may be what you have to work with.

I happened to pass by some guys kedging a boat off a few months ago. They would have made a great video of how NOT to kedge. Very dangerous set up, oblivious to the danger. I tried to warn them, but was not about to put me/crew in danger by getting closer. Predictably one of their very heavily loaded lines failed and backlashed into a guy on deck...who was standing directly in its path...impacting his abdomen. He collapsed on deck, doubled over in pain. I dont know the outcome, but the impact was hard enough to cause internal injuries.

Some other considerations:

Heavy Snatch Blocks. To get kedge lines to winches/windlass you will likely need fair leads, the strongest snatch blocks youve got are good for this. Be aware of potential chafe points, which could cause line failure. Never stand inside the angle created by these fairleads...a failure could be deadly...I saw a failed block pass entirely thru a mast once.

Getting under way: most write ups of kedging Ive read omit what to do once off. Sometimes boats can move suddenly requiring lines to be cast off quickly (hard to do with them led thru a bunch of stuff) or cut. Lines in the water can foul assisted/assisting vessels, etc. I once was kedging off a VERY hard aground boat...we had sails set to heel it, multiple kedges, multiple tow boats...unexpectedly & suddenly she came completely free and took off under full sail...I was aboard solo and had to cut all kedge/tow lines very quickly, no time to cast them off. Have a stout sharp knife at hand. Be very careful cutting loaded line...just a touch of a blade will part it and remaining halves will backlash.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Depends.

Having worked at charter bases, Ive kedged a lot of different boats in varying circumstances. We used to show up in a work boat with lots of extra line and anchors.

Anchor. Appropriate for bottom type & vessel size. A big Fortress I think is a good general choice since loads will likely be straight line, but it may not hold in all bottom types. For cruising I dont carry a dedicated kedge anchor, just a primary and secondary which could be used for kedging.

Type of line/saftey:

Ive always worked with what was on hand...that was usually the vessel's anchor rode, dock lines, etc. You will need at least a long tail on chain so you can lead it to winches. Backlash is a very real danger and can seriously injure or kill. Lightwieght lines like dyneema reduce this issue, but fittings attached to those lines can still become dangerous projectiles (another big plus of using soft shackles). Kedge lines may be very heavily loaded and when they break, it can be quite dramatic...and potentially deadly.

A good way to learn proper techniques I think is to watch some good 4WD (offroad) winch usage/recovery videos. Randy Dahl does some good ones. Many of the techniques apply to kedging. Examples: saftey zones (stay out of inside of line angles, backlash paths...), line dampers (drape things over lines to dampen backlash), etc. Heavier/strechier lines are the most dangerous, but may be what you have to work with.

I happened to pass by some guys kedging a boat off a few months ago. They would have made a great video of how NOT to kedge. Very dangerous set up, oblivious to the danger. I tried to warn them, but was not about to put me/crew in danger by getting closer. Predictably one of their very heavily loaded lines failed and backlashed into a guy on deck...who was standing directly in its path...impacting his abdomen. He collapsed on deck, doubled over in pain. I dont know the outcome, but the impact was hard enough to cause internal injuries.

Some other considerations:

Heavy Snatch Blocks. To get kedge lines to winches/windlass you will likely need fair leads, the strongest snatch blocks youve got are good for this. Be aware of potential chafe points, which could cause line failure. Never stand inside the angle created by these fairleads...a failure could be deadly...I saw a failed block pass entirely thru a mast once.

Getting under way: most write ups of kedging Ive read omit what to do once off. Sometimes boats can move suddenly requiring lines to be cast off quickly (hard to do with them led thru a bunch of stuff) or cut. Lines in the water can foul assisted/assisting vessels, etc. I once was kedging off a VERY hard aground boat...we had sails set to heel it, multiple kedges, multiple tow boats...unexpectedly & suddenly she came completely free and took off under full sail...I was aboard solo and had to cut all kedge/tow lines very quickly, no time to cast them off. Have a stout sharp knife at hand. Be very careful cutting loaded line...just a touch of a blade will part it and remaining halves will backlash.

Wow, I never directly considered all these safety considerations because the kedging I’ve done had been for mild, easily dealt with groundings. While a lot of the above is common sense your extensive experience puts a fine point on safety aspects. Thank you!

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Wow, I never directly considered all these safety considerations because the kedging I’ve done had been for mild, easily dealt with groundings. While a lot of the above is common sense your extensive experience puts a fine point on safety aspects. Thank you!

De nada.

[thinwater]

My advice is to practice. The tips are good, now practice them by setting a second anchor with your dinghy now and then.


For kedging (have done this several times, my boats and those of others) the best answer is NO chain and a Fortress. Much easier to handle, since the man in the dinghy is generally alone.


If safe, consider just stabilizing the boat and waiting for the tide. Kedging can involve dangerous forces and can cause damage.



[I'm not favoring two anchors for general use--just as practice.]

[Hudson Force]

We've done a lot of gunkholing among the shallows and managed to find a need for kedging off numerous times. I had a few thoughts to present, but I noticed that HankOnthewater covered them all.

Originally Posted by HankOnthewater

Did it twice, once in my boat and once to move a 54 ft cat from the rocks in a storm, on both occasions I rowed in a my dinghy.

When running aground often time is of the essence, therefore:
- have anchor ready
- have rode ready
- chain may complicate things and is heavy, so leave out
- have the right shackles in place
- if launching the dinghy takes too much time, maybe floating the anchor out on a lifebuoy may be possible (then one would need a floating rope I guess, this may need practicing!), but may be impossible if there is a lot wind or chop
- when using outboard, ensure line does not get caught in prop

When rowing against the wind, the additional drag of the rope makes it more difficult, and when you have the rope coiled on deck and row the anchor out, likely impossible, and likely you will foul the rope on deck as well (ask how I know), and a better way, and particularity if you are on your own:
- lower the anchor in the stern of the dinghy
- flake all the rope on top of the anchor
- attach the bitter end to the boat (ie on cleat)
- row out in the desired direction until you run out of rope, than let the anchor go
- row back and when on board, start winching
- when you are using an outboard and the water is not choppy, load anchor and rope in the bow and go astern in the dinghy, whilst paying out the rode.

I carry 60 mt of nylon for that purpose but a lighter and floating line would be easier to handle. Sixty metres allows me to stay anchored and sort things out, check the bilges at my leisure as I have enough rode out to hold the boat.

If you were to hook the rode onto a halyard, the mast/rigging would not break or suffer as the rigging should well be designed to deal with loads that heel the boat; just a sheave with sharp edges might damage the halyard a little, but that you can check that later.

As others said, I agree that a Fortress (or Guardian for that matter) is possible best for this purpose. I have a Fortress for that purpose. I can also use that anchor to anchor in muddy bottoms, I then use some chain in between anchor and that rode.

If you do not have a winch or capstan on the point you want to winch from, invest in a largish snatch-block, to re-direct the rode to your largest winch.

[ranger58sb]

Had to kedge off once in our previous boat, after an outgoing tide left us a bit high and dry at anchor. I was only using it to keep the situation stable, though, until and as the next tide could float us off.

That boat's main anchor was a Fortress FX-23, and the backup/kedge was an FX-16 using our spare 3-strand rode with about 6' of leading chain. We rowed it out, set easily, worked fine.

-Chris

[zeehag]

the last boat i kedged off a shoal--worked a 55 x 28 ft trimaran off a beach onto which it was trying to permanently reside,,, was a golf course so boat would have been impounded and or crushed/.
took me 4 hours to prep the boat for owner who returned and was off golf course in under 15 min.
dinghy and anchor with rope affixed, row out, drop anchor, row back to boat and climb onto it and haul to that anchor. may need 2 anchors if large. i used one at bow one at stern both into deeper water. no slack, as slack meant more golf course less water. be wary of rudders. high tide popped his rudders out of sand and off he went in 15 min. once rudders out of sand boat was free and mobile.

[redhead]

Sorry to sidetrack this thread but I cannot resist.

Many years ago I wanted to learn to sail sooo badly, but had no one to teach me. I bought a book "The Annapolis Book of Sailing" 3rd Edition. I used to read this while working slow midnight shifts.

While reading about kedging off I read the following phrase: "Have your wife swim an anchor to a point off the stern". Hmm........

I've looked in subsequent editions and that phrase has been reworded - but I'll always cherish my third edition.

(luckily we haven't had to kedge off on this boat yet, but I assure you I won't be doing any swimming!)