How to properly connect/join two 10mm ISO chain galvanized

[CaptainRivet]

Hi all,

I have 45m of ISO 10mm chain and need to connect another 45m to it. How do I properly connect/join the 2 chains?
Take one link, cut it,weld together and dip the welded link into Epoxy primer?
All the links available here in Canary Island are 316 stainless which is a no go if you go to Caribbean, which I will do in November.
Have an electric windlass.

[JPA Cate]

Hi, Capt. Rivet:

Here's what we've used. https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/...SABEgIGDvD_BwE

They work a treat, but you should look at them carefully from time to time, and replace if they start to get rusty. If you fresh-water rinse your chain from time to time, it keeps rust down, also if your chain locker can drain to the outside of the boat, such rinsing keeps mud smells down, as well.

I got that link by Googling "chain joining links", and there are other styles available; but these ones you can use "in the bush" when you've had to cut your chain to get free from a problem. We got ours from West, iirc.

Ann

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

Hi, Capt. Rivet:

Here's what we've used. https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/...SABEgIGDvD_BwE

They work a treat, but you should look at them carefully from time to time, and replace if they start to get rusty. If you fresh-water rinse your chain from time to time, it keeps rust down, also if your chain locker can drain to the outside of the boat, such rinsing keeps mud smells down, as well.

I got that link by Googling "chain joining links", and there are other styles available; but these ones you can use "in the bush" when you've had to cut your chain to get free from a problem. We got ours from West, iirc.

Ann

Hi, someone here on this forum long ago showed how they use this type, I think they were rated gal not stainless, and joined the two halves with 5200 adhesive, not even peening the pins, with great success.
Worth thinking about.

[Sam Woodbridge]

Captain, here’s what I used if your going to buy in the USA. I bought from these guys too, so I recommend them.

https://www.westechrigging.com/searc...3%2F8%22+G-335

I would also search YouTube for a video on how to pin them together. I used the dock with a anchor as a anvil and beat the pins down with a 5lbs hammer and punch.

Also JPA Cate (Ann) has excellent advice as always!

Sam

[Free2Sail]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Hi, someone here on this forum long ago showed how they use this type, I think they were rated gal not stainless, and joined the two halves with 5200 adhesive, not even peening the pins, with great success.
Worth thinking about.

Interesting idea, though how success is defined (not parting while anchored in a storm?) is unclear. But it can't hurt. I just hammered it together and backed it up with a dyneema shackle over the adjoining links; it goes over the windlass OK.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Hi, someone here on this forum long ago showed how they use this type, I think they were rated gal not stainless, and joined the two halves with 5200 adhesive, not even peening the pins, with great success.
Worth thinking about.

Thanks everyone.
The 316 joining links are much weaker then the chain and as explained not suitable for Caribbean as 316 starts to corrode above 26 degrees celcius in salty water. So I stay away from that crap.. Already had troubles with my old boat with this 316 joining links. If there will be 318 or 319 duplex ss available that would work but nothing available.
There are galvanized joining links which will suit but not available locally...shipping will take 4 weeks and I am off the dry dock end of this week.
So what to use?
A very good idea is
A) additionally bond the galvanized links together, but I would use so called metal Epoxy. After cured it can be worked like metal and even threaded holes is possible. So this will for sure bond both halves additionally.
B) backup with dynema shackle. Did you use thinner rope and lashed it or what exactly did you use? Better then nothing and will work if this backup link isn't going frequently over the gypsy as this will damage the dynema. Should be good for me. I have 45m new chain which is good for 10m depth in the 4:1 scope which I normally use. Additionally the 10mm G4chain is on the heavy side/upper end for my 8.5t 40ft cat. Anchoring in more then 10m I avoid anyhow if possible.

[RaymondR]

Weld them.

[Free2Sail]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Thanks everyone.
B) backup with dynema shackle. Did you use thinner rope and lashed it or what exactly did you use? Better then nothing and will work if this backup link isn't going frequently over the gypsy as this will damage the dynema. Should be good for me. I have 45m new chain which is good for 10m depth in the 4:1 scope which I normally use. Additionally the 10mm G4chain is on the heavy side/upper end for my 8.5t 40ft cat. Anchoring in more then 10m I avoid anyhow if possible.

Just threaded a piece of 1/4"(6mm) dyneema through the end links of the joined lengths of chain and made a tight knot. This backup shackle is not under load unless the galvanized join link breaks. As the first length of chain is about 30 m, and I usually anchor in <5 m, the join link and dyneema loop don't go over the windlass very often. If it did, I suppose you could lift that section over the windlass and anchor roller by hand to minimize the wear.

As the breaking strength of 6mm dyneema is ~4,000kg, it gives me some peace of mind. With 10mm chain you could even use thicker dyneema as backup.

[RaymondR]

I note the use of the term "properly" in your thread subject. Chain is made by bending rod into links and welding the ends together. Any method of joining which does not include re-welding the links falls into the the sphere of "Rube Goldberg" and not "proper" methods.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

I note the use of the term "properly" in your thread subject. Chain is made by bending rod into links and welding the ends together. Any method of joining which does not include re-welding the links falls into the the sphere of "Rube Goldberg" and not "proper" methods.

Well welding is one part of the game... First how do I assure its properly welded together??? You would need to xray that....
2nd how do you protect the weld from
corrosion? Regalvanizing is not really sense full as this will be the whole chain, then you can buy all new. You may/can use Epoxy primer if the painted link doesn't go very often over the gypsy...

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Thanks everyone.
The 316 joining links are much weaker then the chain and as explained not suitable for Caribbean as 316 starts to corrode above 26 degrees celcius in salty water. So I stay away from that crap.. Already had troubles with my old boat with this 316 joining links. If there will be 318 or 319 duplex ss available that would work but nothing available.
There are galvanized joining links which will suit but not available locally...shipping will take 4 weeks and I am off the dry dock end of this week.
So what to use?
A very good idea is
A) additionally bond the galvanized links together, but I would use so called metal Epoxy. After cured it can be worked like metal and even threaded holes is possible. So this will for sure bond both halves additionally.
B) backup with dynema shackle. Did you use thinner rope and lashed it or what exactly did you use? Better then nothing and will work if this backup link isn't going frequently over the gypsy as this will damage the dynema. Should be good for me. I have 45m new chain which is good for 10m depth in the 4:1 scope which I normally use. Additionally the 10mm G4chain is on the heavy side/upper end for my 8.5t 40ft cat. Anchoring in more then 10m I avoid anyhow if possible.

I have a SS link. IIRC the stainless was much stronger than the galvanized link, but yes, still weaker than the chain. It has held 4 years, and most of that was in the tropics with warm water. There are no signs of corrosion.

I would love a link as strong as the chain, but when I looked the SS link was the strongest available. I think to match the strength of the chain, it would need to be professionally welded.

If you pin them well, I don't think any additional backup is needed. I don't think I could remove the link without substantial effort.

[deblen]

A galvanized 3/8" (10mm) g335 "missing link" is rated 2750 Lbs.
How strong is your 10mm galv chain?


https://www.thecrosbygroup.com/produ...acement-links/


https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafi...05_154_002_004

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by deblen

A galvanized 3/8" (10mm) g335 "missing link" is rated 2750 Lbs.
How strong is your 10mm galv chain?


https://www.thecrosbygroup.com/produ...acement-links/


https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafi...05_154_002_004

My 10mm chain g40 is 5120lbs (new) and 5130lbs (older)... So the link is half strength

[Anders]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

I note the use of the term "properly" in your thread subject. Chain is made by bending rod into links and welding the ends together. Any method of joining which does not include re-welding the links falls into the the sphere of "Rube Goldberg" and not "proper" methods.

I would not allow anyone to weld my chain unless it was xrayed

[RaymondR]

Xray is primarily used to document weld quality rather than assure it. Competent welders know when there is an inclusion and grind it out and re-weld it.

I cross cut the end links at 45 degrees then interlink them. This allows a fully penetrated weld which is under shear rather than tensile loading.

I'm fairly sure that I achieve far more than 50% of the chains breaking strength and I believe most probably achieve 100% of the normal breaking strength.