How to strengthen chain link

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

Thank you and Jedi for pointing out this item. I have just now bought two of them. If it were to become necessary, they will allow me to easily and quickly connect all three of my lengths of anchor chain (port bow, starboard bow, and stern) on my boat into one long length.

Thanks guys.

Great! I recommend you test how they pass your windlass chain wheel. If you have a horizontal windlass, you probably need to help it pass. With our vertical windlass I time it so that the chain is slack and give short slow pulses to work it past the wheel without the need for manual intervention

Did you get galvanized ones? If not, spray with CRC cold galvanize.

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Great! I recommend you test how they pass your windlass chain wheel. If you have a horizontal windlass, you probably need to help it pass. With our vertical windlass I time it so that the chain is slack and give short slow pulses to work it past the wheel without the need for manual intervention

Did you get galvanized ones? If not, spray with CRC cold galvanize.

Vertical windlass. Tolerant chainwheel. Galvanized twin clevis.

I make my rope to chain splice as a back splice onto the bow of an anchor shackle with a length of heat shrink tubing slipped over the bow to protect the rope from rust and wear. That makes it easy for me to disconnect the chains from their ropes. The chainwheel has a little trouble with the splice and shackle and voices some objection, but in the end it passes it. I think the twin clevis will be about the same.

Bill

[Manateeman]

Dear Captain Murdoch. You are very welcome. The Peerless double clevis stats are on their web page. There are a bunch of options on the pins such as monel wire...You have a good vessel so I trust you know this stuff.
The original poster did mention welding. We have an aluminum vessel and an inverter Miller TIG welder onboard. I like to watch Jody on Welding Tips and Tricks as the skill levels of some of his guests is fantastic. I called several welders who do a lot of marine, nuke and oil field work and asked if they would feel comfortable doing a galvanized anchor chain weld. I refrain, due to language, posting the responses, but let’s just say they were negative and adult. One could buy several Peerless links for the cost of flipping on a welder and the word galvanized material gets you tossed out. Which brings me to this point. Please, do not try brazing galvanized material without a complete understanding of the dangers involved. Serious and permanent injury from zinc and lead can result.
The hidden issue is the point of attachment on the vessel which has a displacement under 10,000 lbs. Rather the continuing the debate on chain links, I think the collective knowledge should focus on how best to help the original poster feel totally secure at anchor. The chain is a single part of the system.
Let us please focus on helping him.
Let’s ask for photos or discriptions on all his anchoring gear and then give him some options and costs.
Manatees have paddles but they only use them for propulsion.
Mark, the manatee.

[cottonsail]

Crosby "C" links are forged. Safe working load is close to the chain itself.

[Bill_Giles]

We had a similar situation when we wanted to lengthen our chain. After much debate we sold two bits of chain and bought one the right length.

You know it makes sense.

[ColinIOM]

Hi all, In my past (working) life, I was a certified Chain, Crane and lifting gear examiner and tester. We had a 150 ton test bed for proof load testing wire and chain slings and other pieces of lifting gear and often broke items on purpose for testing, we also had a 1000 tonne talurite press for wire sling manufacturing.
Some people think things are “great” or “strong” but fail to understand proper loads or safety margins. Most lifting gear nowadays is manufactured using grade 80 or sometimes grade 100 steel.
Most marine anchor chain is grade 40 (mild steel is grade 20) these grades relate to the braking load in tones per square inch. So grade 40 is twice as strong as mild steel, and grade 80 is 4 times.
All certified chain is manufactured under very strict quality control, and once welded it is then heat treated again to an extremely tight set of conditions and controls.
NOTHING home made, braised, welded (even by a coded welder, who generally would not touch chain with a barge pole, never mind his welder,) will ever be a strong as the chain itself.
These joining links mentioned by others in this post are the manufacturers best attempt at solving the problem, but even after being manufactured under the same tight controls, still they are not as strong as the chain itself. There are connections available to the same standard but to the best of my knowledge, none will run properly over the gypsy.
So personally I only use a one piece anchor chain and would never consider joining on another length, the best course of action if you feel your chain is to short in my opinion is to sell what you have and buy the length you want.
All the best
Colin

[Mickeyrouse]

According to the West Marine Advisor, a split chain link is capable of sustaining the same load as similarly sized proof-coil chain. It stands to reason, since the cross-section of the assembled link is the same diameter of the comparable size chain. The load is not on the brads- they exist to keep the two halves from wandering off. Using split links with hi-test would be like having a section of proof coil on one end and hi-test on the other end of your chain- in other words, your rode is a proof coil rating. Not the end of the world. Though Hi-test is certainly stronger, some writers contend that a proof coil chain is more suitable because the more weight per foot to achieve comparable strength rating means the anchor will set better. Of course, that means more weight in the bow, requiring more capable windlass, bigger batteries (more weight).....so we use hi-test. We’ve been cruising for 25 years from Brownsville Tex to Cutler Maine with 70 ft of 3/8” hi-test and 200 ft of 3/4” nylon on a Fortress 23 in 25000 lb boat loaded. Have yet to encounter anyplace in GulF-East Coast- Bahamas where that wasn’t more than enough.

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by hd002e

A few years ago when I was retrofitting my boat, I bought a windlass. The store was running a special at the time and they bundled 50 feet of chain spliced to 200 feet of nylon 8-plait rode. I felt the chain was too short and got 100 more feet of it and attached it end to end with a split chain link. Galvanized G4 hi test chain.

I checked the chain link couple days ago and it is looking pretty good. BUT, it is in the back of my mind whenever I experience a storm at anchor since that split link is the weakest link. In this part of the workd where I am cruising, have access to all the machine shops, welders and galvanizers one could think of. So it got me thinking, should I take the chain to be welded so that I am no longer depending on that particular split link?

Attachment 220707

Chain links can be welded with low hydrogen electrodes or filler rods.

The chain link in the picture is not the best, after all your vessel depends on it when the wind comes up.
You did not mention the link size or what grade of chain you have.
I had my anchor chain ( 3/8") extended by a chain manufacturer in the past without problems.
The chain link you have reduces the braking load of the chain most likely by 30% or so depending on the grade of the chain. General purpose? High tensile?

The joiner you have is most likely low grade

[smacksman]

Test your chain/link/shackle/rode setup.
Hire/borrow a strain guage and a Tirfor winch covering the safe working load of your chain. If the Tirfor is too small (1.2 tonne say) set up a suitable tackle on the fall. Find two good strong trees; lash the anchor to one and the Tirfor to the other and to as much chain as will reach. Test that section to safe working load. Lash next length of chain to the tree - repeat.
Sleep easy riding to your anchor.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by ColinIOM

.
These joining links mentioned by others in this post are the manufacturers best attempt at solving the problem, but even after being manufactured under the same tight controls, still they are not as strong as the chain itself. There are connections available to the same standard but to the best of my knowledge, none will run properly over the gypsy.

13mm grade L PWB chain, which we use has a working limit of 1700kg
https://www.nobles.com.au/en-au/prod.../grade-l-chain

Acco/Peerless connecting links which we use have a working limit of 2042kg
https://www.peerlesschain.com/products/440840802.html

They go through the chain wheel OK, not perfectly, but OK but reality is, we rarely anchor in waters deep enough to bring the joiner out.

[Icarus]

Just get a connecter link welded in the chain.
Why bother with rivited connectors, Japanese or otherwise?

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

]

They go through the chain wheel OK, not perfectly, but OK but reality is, we rarely anchor in waters deep enough to bring the joiner out.

Actually, now that we are using it it does go through the chain wheel perfectly

Originally Posted by Icarus

Just get a connecter link welded in the chain.
Why bother with rivited connectors, Japanese or otherwise?

Because I don't need to pay for a marina berth, manhandle 800lb of chain off the boat and up to land then load into a rented vehicle to take off to get welded.
Then bring back, manhandle 800lb out and back onboard
$300, a stuffed back and a wasted day later......

Instead, for $20 and 5 minutes I have a stronger than welded link in place and it's galvanised.

[NevilleCat]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Dear Captain Murdoch. You are very welcome. The Peerless double clevis stats are on their web page. There are a bunch of options on the pins such as monel wire...You have a good vessel so I trust you know this stuff.
The original poster did mention welding....
I called several welders who do a lot of marine, nuke and oil field work and asked if they would feel comfortable doing a galvanized anchor chain weld. I refrain, due to language, posting the responses, but let’s just say they were negative and adult. One could buy several Peerless links for the cost of flipping on a welder and the word galvanized material gets you tossed out. Which brings me to this point. Please, do not try brazing galvanized material without a complete understanding of the dangers involved. Serious and permanent injury from zinc and lead can result. :

I find this interesting. Surely in land based, construction based industry, welding galvanised steel is pretty common? I just had new gates and balcony
balustrade made up and they use pre-galvanised steel and weld it and then touch up with cold gal paint.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by NevilleCat

I find this interesting. Surely in land based, construction based industry, welding galvanised steel is pretty common? I just had new gates and balcony
balustrade made up and they use pre-galvanised steel and weld it and then touch up with cold gal paint.

I know a local welder and fabricator who has been welding duragal steel for years, though his welding helmet has a forced air system ensuring that the by product doesn't make it to his lungs.

[AKA-None]

And zinc is a weld impurity thus weakening the weld