Ideal windlass issue

[groundtackle]

Way to go MH!
I refuse to throw out good stuff that's repairable. I hate this disposable world we live in, just buy another attitude.
Obviously we must contemplate all the options. I just like taking things apart and find satisfaction in making it work again, sometimes better.
Cheers to ya,
Chris

[Markhunter1097]

All parts back and ready to reinstall. You can see in the pic of the old main drive, that the gears had been stripped and this was my problem
Chroming cost $500 aud, and will look fantastic back on the deck, I’ll have to clean up the anchor and chain now too!

[Markhunter1097]

Also, the main gear that came from Schaefer was 1/8 inch too big, so it required a bit of machining to get it to fit, was a fiddley job as after getting it to fit, the worm drive was in not aligned properly!!
Nothing a couple of more hours couldn’t fix

[Typhoon]

Nice chrome . We did ours as well but left the deck plate , I just cleaned it/polished it and put few coats of 2 part clear on it .

Regards John

[Bill O]

Mark,
Was wondering this morning over coffee how things were coming along. Looks great.

Working on my new friction disks today. Purchased different material that was a bit stronger and slightly thicker (to bury the screw heads deeper) than the ones supplied by Schaefer.

Also glad I have access to a machine shop for my new disks. Even the "factory" disks I were off a bit and the screws didn't align properly, so w/o the ability for the adjustments, it could be frustrating. Definitely not plug and play parts.

Again great job!

Bill O.

[Markhunter1097]

[Markhunter1097]

Finally back in the boat
Job took a good 5 hours to finish.
And best if all it now works and looks fantastic

[Bill O]

Mark,
Again looks good. Your pics reminded me what a PITA it was to get the shaft and gear box in place.

Rigging the floor jack was a good idea. I had a helper and used the top compression "nut" as a hand hold to help pull the gear box up once the threaded portion protruded through the deck.

Your job does remind me to take my motor off and get it serviced before it goes down. While I've changed the gear oil and lube the above deck parts regularly, I haven't paid any attention to the very critical motor. All the rest of the system is relatively new, but have no idea when the motor was last serviced.

Did install the new friction disk, but haven't tried it yet. The new disk has more surface area (~33%) then the ones supplied by Ideal (black one), is a little thicker to bury the retaining screws deeper and the material is a little firmer so it may not distort as much. As you can see the softer rubbery Ideal disk (eventually after a couple years of use), started distort and tear around the retaining screws. Even with the larger gear box (V4C), we are pushing the limit for the anchor size (40kg Rocna). While we motor up to release the dug in anchor, sometimes we also pull up heavy mud and larger branches/small logs. I expect with the added mud, etc, at times we are attempting to pull up ~>50kg, putting additional stress on the rubbery Ideal friction disk.

The other problem I had with the newer Ideal friction disk is they sent me a predrilled disk (for the retaining screws), but they didn't line up. When Cliff still ran Ideal, the predrilled holes aligned well. They (now Schaefer) did send me an undrilled disk, which I had to drill and align the 8 countersunk #6 screw holes. The rubbery disk wanted to move slightly when using the cork borer to put in the initial holes and if one was not careful, the movement of the material could cause the misalignment of the small holes.

The new friction disk material is denser and could be drilled using normal mill bits. Hoping the friction coefficient of ~0.60 is up for the task. If not I'll go back to the Ideal friction disk (probably has a higher coefficient) and attempt to adhere the disk with an adhesive to help avoid tear/elongation of the material around the retaining screws.

I'll let you know how the field tests work.

Bill O.

[Typhoon]

Nice job, windlass looks great !!

Regards John.

[Markhunter1097]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Mark,
Again looks good. Your pics reminded me what a PITA it was to get the shaft and gear box in place.

Rigging the floor jack was a good idea. I had a helper and used the top compression "nut" as a hand hold to help pull the gear box up once the threaded portion protruded through the deck.

Your job does remind me to take my motor off and get it serviced before it goes down. While I've changed the gear oil and lube the above deck parts regularly, I haven't paid any attention to the very critical motor. All the rest of the system is relatively new, but have no idea when the motor was last serviced.

Did install the new friction disk, but haven't tried it yet. The new disk has more surface area (~33%) then the ones supplied by Ideal (black one), is a little thicker to bury the retaining screws deeper and the material is a little firmer so it may not distort as much. As you can see the softer rubbery Ideal disk (eventually after a couple years of use), started distort and tear around the retaining screws. Even with the larger gear box (V4C), we are pushing the limit for the anchor size (40kg Rocna). While we motor up to release the dug in anchor, sometimes we also pull up heavy mud and larger branches/small logs. I expect with the added mud, etc, at times we are attempting to pull up ~>50kg, putting additional stress on the rubbery Ideal friction disk.

The other problem I had with the newer Ideal friction disk is they sent me a predrilled disk (for the retaining screws), but they didn't line up. When Cliff still ran Ideal, the predrilled holes aligned well. They (now Schaefer) did send me an undrilled disk, which I had to drill and align the 8 countersunk #6 screw holes. The rubbery disk wanted to move slightly when using the cork borer to put in the initial holes and if one was not careful, the movement of the material could cause the misalignment of the small holes.

The new friction disk material is denser and could be drilled using normal mill bits. Hoping the friction coefficient of ~0.60 is up for the task. If not I'll go back to the Ideal friction disk (probably has a higher coefficient) and attempt to adhere the disk with an adhesive to help avoid tear/elongation of the material around the retaining screws.

I'll let you know how the field tests work.

Bill O.

Bill O, the shop that did the chroming for me actually put a new friction disc on. I don’t think they are anything you need to order from Schaefer, they look like clutch plate material.

Also to save boredom, I didn’t show the full extent of the jacking, of which there were 2 jacks and many bits of wood.
I made the job hard for myself as I preinstalled the motor and oil too

Rgds

[rls8r]

Mark -

I know this thread is a bit old - but in your message #41 you mention getting a good deal on a new Ideal windlass motor from 'paintedsky'. Who is 'paintedsky'? The Schafer folks recommended that I replace my Ideal windlass motor (V1C) because a terminal has corroded - and may short out soon. They want $874 for a new motor. I'd like to see about having it rebuilt - or getting a new (cheaper) one if one is available. Thanks. Rick

[Markhunter1097]

Originally Posted by rls8r

Mark -

I know this thread is a bit old - but in your message #41 you mention getting a good deal on a new Ideal windlass motor from 'paintedsky'. Who is 'paintedsky'? The Schafer folks recommended that I replace my Ideal windlass motor (V1C) because a terminal has corroded - and may short out soon. They want $874 for a new motor. I'd like to see about having it rebuilt - or getting a new (cheaper) one if one is available. Thanks. Rick

Hi Rick, Paintedsky was a boat in Adelaide Australia that just happened to have a brand new motor that he didn’t need, so I bought it from him
Before though I did rebuild my old motor which is easy to do; if your only problem is a corroded terminal then you can remove that and make one or get a new one if it is supplied
Or ask on the forum if anyone has an old motor and get that

[Badsanta]

Ideal will rebuild it

[captmob]

Good afternoon I’m Marc from “Robins Nest “ Morgan 416. I have the swim ideal as yours. Can you tell me how to remove the capstan to service the clutch. Mine is slipping. I removed the screw and washer on top. What do the two 1/4” holes on the top do? Does this part unscrew? Thanks

[rls8r]

Hi Marc - Which Ideal windlass do you have? If your windlass is like Mark's (on his Hinckley 49) or like mine on my B40 - you probably have the Model MCW which was put on boats between the 1950s and 1993. The early models of the MCW (made between the 1950s and 1982) had a different way to adjust the friction than the later (between 1983 and 1993) models. The early models had two vertical holes drilled into the capstan cap (one on either side of the center shaft opening) into which the prongs of a capstan rod (or spanner) were placed to turn the capstan cap to increase or decrease the friction. The later models had two horizontal holes drilled into a raised 'lip' around the center shaft opening into which a rod was inserted to turn the capstan cap. Do you have both 'raising' and 'lowering' foot switches? I only have the footswitch to raise the anchor - so I have to reduce the friction on the windlass to lower the anchor. It could be that you simply need to tighten the capstan cap to reduce the slipping.

Once you've taken the machine screw and washer off the center shaft in either of these models the capstan cap just unscrews and then the capstan should lift off to allow access to the upper friction disc. There is a key between the center shaft and the capstan - and that may be a bit corroded, so just tap up on the capstan to see if it comes free (I use a dead blow hammer for that). Then, remove the chain stripper and the wildcat should just lift off to expose the lower friction disc. The friction discs are part number CWM-9 and are the same for both early (MCW) models of the windlass and the later (post 1993 - V1C) model of the windlass.

If you have other questions, or need to order parts - call Joy Ruel at Schaefer (Ph: 508-995-9511). I've found her (and Jeff) to be extremely patient and helpful with my windlass project.