Joining Anchor Chain

[daletournier]

When I looked into joining links years ago I remember Cosby joiners were considered the best, can't remember why. I had no problems using two for years. I also had a link welded once, lived on the hook full time no problem.

[RaymondR]

About the only way to join the chain and retain the full strength is to cut the end of the links you want to join in an X pattern and weld them with low hydrogen welding rods. Cutting with an X pattern allows you to both link the chain and achieve a fully penetrated weld which will pass around the winch wildcat normally.

[Marrigoround]

I know this is an old thread and an even older topic, but I've got to ask the question somewhere.

Ever heard of joining two lengths of chain by back-splicing a short length of three strand rope?

It seems that this technique is a time tested method to join rope to chain rodes, why not do that connection twice with a minor added benefit of adding stretch into the system. I'm on the hook in Mexico and getting ahold of parts like the Crosby C-Link is a long drawn out process, so I'm thinking of a short term solution/experiment that may be permanent.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Originally Posted by Marrigoround

I know this is an old thread and an even older topic, but I've got to ask the question somewhere.

Ever heard of joining two lengths of chain by back-splicing a short length of three strand rope?

It seems that this technique is a time tested method to join rope to chain rodes, why not do that connection twice with a minor added benefit of adding stretch into the system. I'm on the hook in Mexico and getting ahold of parts like the Crosby C-Link is a long drawn out process, so I'm thinking of a short term solution/experiment that may be permanent.

In this scenario, the reason for going from chain to rope back to chain would be for the added catenary weight of the chain, correct? If this is the case, forget the second length of chain and use rope, then use a kellet for the added weight. If the second section of chain is for abrasion resistance, there's no guarantee that the short section of rope won't chafe through anyway. Interesting thought though.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Marrigoround

I know this is an old thread and an even older topic, but I've got to ask the question somewhere.

Ever heard of joining two lengths of chain by back-splicing a short length of three strand rope?

It seems that this technique is a time tested method to join rope to chain rodes, why not do that connection twice with a minor added benefit of adding stretch into the system. I'm on the hook in Mexico and getting ahold of parts like the Crosby C-Link is a long drawn out process, so I'm thinking of a short term solution/experiment that may be permanent.

You can do that. If just to join segments, I'd prefer to use Dyneema lashings.

[Breaking Waves]

There is no perfect answer to this question (connecting G4 chain)

If you want it to run perfectly thru windless you want a Crosby G-335 Replacement link (which is the best of the available C links). I have never seen one of these break, but they are weaker than the (g4) chain. If that bothers you, but you still need smooth windless action, you can back it up with a loose dyneema lashing equal to the chain strength (was my solution).

If you want 'full strength' and perfectly smooth windless action is somewhat less important then you want Crosby S-249 Twin Clevis link . . . which is in fact stronger than same size G4 chain. It will run on most windlasses, but you need to be a bit careful if pulling under high load - there is a potential safety hazzard there.

And yea, you can connect chain with textile, but there is always the possibility that something underwater (from coral to a rusty refrigerator) will cut that textile. I personally would use a short lashing of Dyneema or Kevlar, lashing sized to a chain link so that it runs smoothing thru windless. That can be very high strength, but always vulnerable to the cutting issue.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

snip

If you want 'full strength' and perfectly smooth windless action is somewhat less important then you want Crosby S-249 Twin Clevis link . . . which is in fact stronger than same size G4 chain. It will run on most windlasses, but you need to be a bit careful if pulling under high load - there is a potential safety hazzard there.

snip.

I have some of those. No way it would run through any vertical windlass I've used on recreational boats. Perhaps an open horizontal windlass would let it pass, but it might hang on a hawsepipe. If there's a stripper arm in the path (as you'd have on a windless suited for rope/chain) I'd expect it to jam.

[Marrigoround]

Originally Posted by Tortuga's Lie

In this scenario, the reason for going from chain to rope back to chain would be for the added catenary weight of the chain, correct? If this is the case, forget the second length of chain and use rope, then use a kellet for the added weight. If the second section of chain is for abrasion resistance, there's no guarantee that the short section of rope won't chafe through anyway. Interesting thought though.

The reason for this work-around is the great difficulty in obtaining specific parts where I am located. I have some friends planning a trip to visit who will be used as mules for my myriad marine maintenance musings, but until then, I will have to be creative...

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

I have some of those. No way it would run through any vertical windlass I've used on recreational boats. Perhaps an open horizontal windlass would let it pass, but it might hang on a hawsepipe. If there's a stripper arm in the path (as you'd have on a windless suited for rope/chain) I'd expect it to jam.

All I can say is that it DID run thru the biggest available lewmar (vertical) windless, which did not have a stripper. But under high load, I thought there was a possibility of a skip/slip/jam - but there was also such a possibility with a rope to chain splice

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

I have those in 3/8" but the WLL is 2,650 still over 1,000 pounds less than the 3900 WLL of G40 5/16" chain.

A 5/16" link that would run "smoothly" has a WLL of 1,900 HALF the rating of the chain.

I also had one of these, possibly inferior grade, joining the 5/16” bbb and G43 I just threw away.

The link was most obvious due to the level of significant exfoliating rust. When I cut it off with a cutoff wheel I estimate the clean non-corroded metal was about 60-70% of the original wire diameter.

[BillKny]

Interesting that so many here feel that ANY kind of joint is just totally unacceptable, always and forever. The marine industry disagrees.

In larger sizes anchor chain comes in relatively short lengths, typically in units of a "shot" which is 15 fathoms or 90 feet. Longer lengths just become too heavy to move around with normal equipment. They are joined together with pinned links that go through windlasses without a problem. This is true of all super yachts and large ships I have seen.

These links DO take a bit more maintenance since they typically have thinner galvanizing than the chain they connect to. When they start to rust, it is time to replace them. For recreational boats this is likely a problem. Most recreational sailors have enough trouble maintaining things they can SEE, much less something buried in an chain locker...