Joining Chain

[MarkJ]

I use the cheap SS double C type thing you bash together. Cost $7? Works fine through the Gypsy.

At the join I run a bit of 10mm chain accross it shackeled with 2 thin shackles, one each side of the join. Makes me sleep at night


The old bit of chain is rusting so this year (is someone sends me USD$600) I am getting a full 100 meters new chain, no links.

100 meters is a sensational length. many places we anchor in over 20 meters water... My max is 23 meteres as the dead lift of 23 meters begins to strain the electric windlass a bit.

23 meters depth in a storm x 5 = Damn I need more!. No, it equals safety


Mark

[NDH]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

I use the 'standard french racing dyneema lashing' approach. A buntline hitch (with a couple stitches sewn thru to stop slipping) to attach one end of the line to a chain link, then the lashing (4 times around, then half hitches to secure the other end to the lashing, then sew the end of the half hitches to stop slipping and then some rubber rigging tape over the top to make it look clean. Takes no time at all and not much money. The strength reduction of the bunt line hitch is not so important because of the multiple lashing loops.

The only trick is to get the lashing one chain link long, so it will run around the windless well.

This is not a method or term I have come across before. I have tried googling without success so if anyone could point me towards a picture or diagram I would be obliged. Thanks

[North26West80]

What's your chain locker size and shape? When I had 300' of chain there were constant problems with chain not stacking properly in the locker and falling over on itself, jams, etc. Now that I only have 200' things are much better. Might be something to consider.

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by NDH

This is not a method or term I have come across before. I have tried googling without success so if anyone could point me towards a picture or diagram I would be obliged. Thanks

My boat and her lashings are burried under the snow, but here are some (not so great) pictures of various open 60 lashings. The modern race boat has mostly done away with steel shackles, using spectra loops and lashings for all connections. Just imagine one of these lashings between two end chain links and you have the idea.

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

My boat and her lashings are burried under the snow, .

ROTFLMAO.

Suffer!!!!


Its a bit hot here today.


Glad the beer is cold.


Oowch!!!!! Too cold! Its ICY!!

[estarzinger]

[QUOTE=MarkJ;610975]
Glad the beer is cold.

/QUOTE]

You are living the life . . . warm water and cold beer!

We don't have cold beer, unless there's snow on deck and ice in the water around the boat

[s/v Jedi]

The lashing here has survived the most nasty 60 knot squalls we experienced. The 5/8" snubber needs replacing before the lashing does.

The 2nd photo shows an old one deployed under water (just showing off my camera housing :-). You can see that the lashing looks good while the snubber is asking for replacement. Something similar can be done to join links of the chain. I use a lovely knot here, securing the ends with a sewn whipping.





ciao!
Nick.

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The lashing here has survived the most nasty 60 knot squalls we experienced. The 5/8" snubber needs replacing before the lashing does.

The 2nd photo shows an old one deployed under water (just showing off my camera housing :-). You can see that the lashing looks good while the snubber is asking for replacement. Something similar can be done to join links of the chain. I use a lovely knot here, securing the ends with a sewn whipping.





ciao!
Nick.

Howdy,

Very nice "lovely" looking knot... I don't suppose you have a link or a name for this lovely knot?

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

A "connecting link" is a commonly used solution - we used one for years and never had a problem with it.

However we have now switched to a dyneema/spectra lashing - stronger than the steel. I did this after noticing that the dyneema lashings on my mainsail clew chafed less (eg essentially not at all) than the Harken HT stainless shackles did (they would be noticeably worn at the contact point). There is a very very slight/remote chance that such a lashing could get cut by some coral if caught in just exactly the wrong way, so a belt and braces approach of a connecting link plus a lashing would be the bulletproof solution.

I also agree with the posts above that 225' of chain plus 100' of rope would generally do ok in the pacific, but 300' would be more comforting in a few anchorages. We crossed the pacific the first time with only 150' of chain plus rope, but that was a centerboard boat and we could almost always sneak into shallow water.

Howdy,

I note that on your website - you state that you carry 150' x 2 with one of those with 200' of 3/4" line on it - presumably your primary.

Can you advise whether that 3/4" is spliced to the chain to facilitate passing through the windlass or whether it is shackled?

The reason I ask is that if indeed it is spliced - then what do you do to connect the second 150' of chain? unsplice? cut? let dangle?

If shackled on with a hard eye etc - then how do you get it through the windlass?

Also to confirm - your "connecting link" is the one with the rivets/hammered together - looks like a standard chain link.

Sorry for the very specific questions - but I'm trying to set up something similar myself (yet benefit from a "known working setup" as I have 70m of chain in a single length at the bow and am considering cutting in half to move the weight aft.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto

Howdy,

Very nice "lovely" looking knot... I don't suppose you have a link or a name for this lovely knot?

True Lovers
http://www.realknots.com/p/k/btruel1.gif

don't forget the whippings!

ciao!
Nick.

[s/v Jedi]

Here is the chain connector I just tested: it passes my vertical windlass without any problems.

This connector is a 3/8" full strength G.70 6,600lbs connector, so even rated for my G.70 chain and way stronger than 3/8" G.40

I sprayed it with cold galvanize; it's original gold colored coating can be seen at the upper pin.



ciao!
Nick.

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

True Lovers
http://www.realknots.com/p/k/btruel1.gif

don't forget the whippings!

ciao!
Nick.

Wow, very romantic and easy to do too.

Just out of curiosity - would this be stronger than - say a reef/square knot in spectra lashing?

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Here is the chain connector I just tested: it passes my vertical windlass without any problems.

This connector is a 3/8" full strength G.70 6,600lbs connector, so even rated for my G.70 chain and way stronger than 3/8" G.40

I sprayed it with cold galvanize; it's original gold colored coating can be seen at the upper pin.



ciao!
Nick.

Wow,that looks seriously solid! I'm suprized it passes through your windlass though!

What brand/model is it?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto

Wow, very romantic and easy to do too.

Just out of curiosity - would this be stronger than - say a reef/square knot in spectra lashing?

The same is my guess; my lashing is a double-braid: Spectra core with polyester cover. I prefer this knot because the ends are exactly where you want them for the whipping.

Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto

Wow,that looks seriously solid! I'm suprized it passes through your windlass though!

What brand/model is it?

It will pass through every vertical windlass. The reason is that it maintains the exact spacing between links !!

I bought this one @ West Marine... it's in their catalog.

ciao!
Nick.

[akio.kanemoto]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The same is my guess; my lashing is a double-braid: Spectra core with polyester cover. I prefer this knot because the ends are exactly where you want them for the whipping.



It will pass through every vertical windlass. The reason is that it maintains the exact spacing between links !!

I bought this one @ West Marine... it's in their catalog.

ciao!
Nick.

Thanks for that.