Manual windlass decision needs input

[AmzngGrace]

Been struggling with all the variables. In short, new 2nd owner of late 70’s Crealock 37. No windlass, about 12’ or 3/8 chain with about 200+ ft of rope currently Decided to just get a Lofrans horiz manual windlass and call it good. Gypsey is for a 5/16”. Many of my mates report using 5/16” so I guess its good. I have heard all chain and if too pricey then s/b ok with like 30’ or chain and rest stought rope/rode. Thinking that since no one answer, 5/16 has been ok and probably been ok with previous (now deceased) owner for only 12’ of chain that I would go with like 50-100’ of 5/16 chain and rest will be rope.
What do you think? The big questions are, is there any minimal length of chain? And, if I drop from 3/8 to 5/16, does that require, on its own, to increase relative chain length more, purely because of reducing chain size? Is there really any issue about chain length, meaning is there really any problem with 30 or 50 or 80 or 150 or 300 feet of chain, really? Or just try something and watch wear?
Thanks.

[Mike OReilly]

Necessary chain length has a lot to do with your anchoring grounds. Personally I have an all-chain primary rode (250', 3/8") on my 37-foot boat, but I rarely get to the 200' mark. Often I am anchored with not more than 120' out. I prefer anchoring in 20' or less, although sometimes that's not possible.

So, if your anchorages are relatively shallow, then you can get away with less chain. If you regularly anchor in deeper water, then you'll want more. It's really that simple.

To me, I prefer all-chain. But as a minimum I'd want at least 80 feet of chain. I don't have any experience using 5/16" chain. If it is quality stuff I can't see it being a problem.

[Adelie]

Depends on where you sail.
If I were going offshore where I would be encountering a lot of unfamiliar anchorages I’d want chain down.
I would have 100-125’ of 5/16 high test/G40 on the main anchor with 200’ of nylon behind that and maybe 100’ of yellow polypro behind that.
In an emergency if I need to dump the anchor and never come back for it cut it at the nylon/polypro join. If I’m coming back to try to retrieve it the let it all run out once the polypro goes tight then cut that and go. The polypro floats and being yellow is easier to see in the water.

I would keep another 125’ of chain in the bilge for extra deep anchorages and as a replacement if the main anchor and chain were lost.
All secondary anchors would have 1 boat length 5/16 chain and 200 nylon rode.

I too would go for a manual windlass.

[stormalong]

Where will you be cruising? I see that you are in the same waters as me.

Depth of water and anchor choice dictate length of chain. I use 5/16 HT on a 44ft 12 ton (design weight) boat. My standard is a minimum of 5 to 1 chain/depth ratio. Probably overkill in the calm waters of Puget sound. I carry 300 ft of chain.

I once rode out 74 MPH winds on a CQR 60 and 5/16 HT chain so I am confident that 5/16 is up to the task.

[Greg Mason]

If you are cruising NW waters, you may not be alone in your anchorages. A short piece of chain along with rode may allow your vessel to drift around the bay to the length of your rode. More chain will mean less drift.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by AmzngGrace

Been struggling with all the variables. In short, new 2nd owner of late 70’s Crealock 37. No windlass, about 12’ or 3/8 chain with about 200+ ft of rope currently Decided to just get a Lofrans horiz manual windlass and call it good. Gypsey is for a 5/16”. Many of my mates report using 5/16” so I guess its good. I have heard all chain and if too pricey then s/b ok with like 30’ or chain and rest stought rope/rode. Thinking that since no one answer, 5/16 has been ok and probably been ok with previous (now deceased) owner for only 12’ of chain that I would go with like 50-100’ of 5/16 chain and rest will be rope.
What do you think? The big questions are, is there any minimal length of chain? And, if I drop from 3/8 to 5/16, does that require, on its own, to increase relative chain length more, purely because of reducing chain size? Is there really any issue about chain length, meaning is there really any problem with 30 or 50 or 80 or 150 or 300 feet of chain, really? Or just try something and watch wear?
Thanks.

I see you are in Mt. Vernon also.
For a 37 foot boat i would definitely consider an electric windlass. Hauling in 200 feet of rode is a back breaker. But if not, then your best compromise may be with 30 ft of chain and all nylon rode to save your back. 5/8 or 3/4" rope.

In the PNW, I would go with chain rode and an electric windlass. 5/16 should be adequate. Rocks abound, they chafe rope rode. Anchorages can be deep in spots. You may anchor in 40-60 ft of water, so you want at least 250 ft of rode. I usually compromised with 200 ft of chain and 150 ft of rope behind that.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I see you are in Mt. Vernon also.
For a 37 foot boat i would definitely consider an electric windlass. Hauling in 200 feet of rode is a back breaker. But if not, then your best compromise may be with 30 ft of chain and all nylon rode to save your back. 5/8 or 3/4" rope.

In the PNW, I would go with chain rode and an electric windlass. 5/16 should be adequate. Rocks abound, they chafe rope rode. Anchorages can be deep in spots. You may anchor in 40-60 ft of water, so you want at least 250 ft of rode. I usually compromised with 200 ft of chain and 150 ft of rope behind that.

With a good manual windlass it is not backbreaking work Cheechako. And I speak as one who's broken his back .

Not saying don't get an electric. There are advantages, especially if you're alone a lot. But hauling up 200 feet of 3/8" chain is not a hard task with a proper manual windlass. It just takes a bit more time than an electric.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

With a good manual windlass it is not backbreaking work Cheechako. And I speak as one who's broken his back .

Not saying don't get an electric. There are advantages, especially if you're alone a lot. But hauling up 200 feet of 3/8" chain is not a hard task with a proper manual windlass. It just takes a bit more time than an electric.

Yeah, that's true if it's chain, but you need 3 arms if it's rope! You have to tail, you have to push the noodle down the hawse, you have to crank and if not flat water you have to deal with getting the boat over the anchor!

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Yeah, that's true if it's chain, but you need 3 arms if it's rope! You have to tail, you have to push the noodle down the hawse, you have to crank and if not flat water you have to deal with getting the boat over the anchor!

Ah yes, good point. Another plus for all-chain .

My previous boat (34-footer) had no windlass at all. I would haul fully manually. Here my main rode was 120' of 5/16" chain attached to 200' of 3/4" 3-strand nylon. It was a PITA at times doing the three-step of hauling, and guiding down hawse pipe, while still maintaining some semblance of control, especially if conditions were poor. I'm sure I gave a good show .

Now, with my manual windlass, I just take my second cup of coffee up to the bow, and leisurely start cranking away. Rarely break a sweat... unless I need to .

Just get all-chain. Better choice all round (except for the pocket book ).

[JPA Cate]

As to rope rode vs. chain rode, rope is vulnerable to damage from unidentified floating objects, as well as rocks or coral, and I'd say that those of us who've changed from chain plus rope to all chain wouldn't go back. One feels quite safe, and there's less motion with all chain compared to mainly rope.

We use 3/8" chain, did on our 36 footer, too, so to me, 5/16 seems light. It does waste, when the galvanize starts to go. Your choice.

Manual vs. electric windlass is another personal choice. We certainly have enjoyed having the electric one, and it is much easier on me (fairly small), than having to use the manual windlass we used to have. Also, as one ages, it can be nice to push the button, rather than struggle.


Ann