My ground tackle refit

[Jammer]

I purchased a Tartan 3800 last year. She had been a dock queen, and came to me equipped with ground tackle as follows:

• Lofrans Cayman windlass with 5/16" HT chainwheel
• About 20' of 3/8" chain
• About 200' of 3/4" nylon rope
• A smallish plow-type anchor of uncertain manufacture
• An OEM bow roller assembly with the plastic roller itself failing due to UV exposure

I will keep the windlass and the frame of the bow roller but am replacing the balance of the ground tackle. I offer here our plans and thought process for discussion, since many of the anchoring threads are hypothetical in nature and do not consider real-world tradeoffs.

For anchor selection, we purchased a Vulcan 25kg (55#) anchor. Here's why.

I have spent a good deal of time reading anchoring threads and watching Steve (s/v Panope)'s videos. The Vulcan does not perform as well as recent more innovative designs from Sarca and Mantus. However in the past I have had multiple bad experiences with boutique specialty products (in my non-boating endeavors) that are produced or imported in small quantities with a limited dealer network. Not wanting to make that mistake again I was willing to sacrifice a small amount of performance (in Steve's tests at least) in return for a product produced in larger numbers with local (USA) dealer support. This way, any flaws are more likely to be brought to light by its users, and the logistics of purchasing and (should it become necessary) obtaining warranty service for an expensive 55# product are more tenable. West Marine shipped the anchor to my doorstep.

Rocna's sizing chart recommends a 20kg anchor for our boat. The difference in performance between a 25kg anchor and a 20kg anchor exceeds the difference in performance between similar modern designs. There is room on our bow, the cost difference is small, and a 55# anchor is still manageable on land, aboard, or while diving. I have found that most people with extensive anchoring experience recommend going up a size, or sometimes two, from manufacturer's recommendations, even with modern anchors.

Since the existing rode is unsuitable we will replace it with 275' of 5/16" HT chain. I am planning on getting Peerless chain from Defender but have not ordered it yet because it's winter here and the practical aspects of unloading it from a truck, storing it at my house, and getting it to the boat are best dealt with after the snow is gone. 275' is a half barrel and is much, much cheaper than 300' of chain purchased by the foot.

I believe that the 5/16" HT chain is more than sufficient for the boat and is overall a better choice than 3/8" proof coil chain. There are zero reports of anchor chains in reasonably good condition breaking on cruising boats.

A Crosby G-209A alloy shackle and 120' of 3/4" 8-plait nylon rope will complete the rode.

I was able to find a 3" diameter disc of MDS-filled nylon at McMaster to use to make a roller. I drilled a hole for the shaft using a lathe at the local makerspace. I will probably also cut a groove in the center to reduce chain twist.

We do not have a chain counter. I am planning on installing the Imtra plastic chain markers (that fit inside the links). Suitable primer for marking the chain with paint has become hard to find. I expect that I will tie some short pieces of colored cord also but will experiment with this after everything is installed.

For a snubber, I'm starting with a 26' length of 1/2" twisted nylon rope. I'll splice an eye in one end and add a leather chafe sleeve where it will go through the chocks. Then use a soft shackle to attach it to the chain.

The boat came with a properly sized Danforth HT kedge and 125' of 1/2" twisted nylon rode for it. This isn't a terrible choice and I don't think I'll change it for now. I would rather have 8 plait because it uses less space in the laz, and I would rather have a Fortress because they're a little lighter, but I have other things to do with my money.

I do not plan on carrying a backup anchor, other than the kedge, until we are ready to leave the USA/Canada. At that point I'm tentatively planning on adding one of the aluminum Sarca Excels and some minimal chain for it, probably no more than 60', plus rope.

[rslifkin]

That setup sounds perfectly suitable in my mind. As far as paint, I found that treating the links to be painted with gelcoat stain remover (acid) and then thoroughly rinsing and drying them, then applying spray paint works fine. The acid etches the galvanizing a bit for better adhesion. The paint does wear over time and eventually needs to be re-applied, but it stays visible for quite a while.

[Tortuga's Lie]

If it were me and knowing your Tartan is a performance-cruiser (with an emphasis on performance), I would not have 275' of chain, way too much weight in the bow. I would go for 125 to 150 feet of chain, then transition to rope, either 8 plait or 3 strand to make up the difference. This is my set up on my T-4100 and I have rarely gotten into my rope, but of course, my anchoring here on the Chesapeake is fairly shallow, 20 feet is about as deep as we anchor here. Don't discount the Mantus just because it comes from a smaller manufacturer, they are excellent anchors and the customer support is second to none.

[wholybee]

Chain and anchor selection is perfect. I would consider less chain. About 100 ft of chain and the remainder as rope imho is perfect. Your anchor will give great holding at 3:1 scope. That gives you all chain for any anchorage 30 feet or less. To about 50 ft deep, there is no chance of the rope touching the bottom. The times you will anchor in deeper than 50' will be very infrequent. And feeding out more rope in those situations offers no disadvantage.

Having more than 100 ft of chain only adds weight. It won't offer better holding, more strength, or more security.

[jamhass]

Check out "Max Ebb" in the Feb 2023 issue of Latitude 38.

https://issuu.com/latitude38/docs/l380223/54?e=1997181

Interesting discussion on the physics and forces on the rode.

[Mike OReilly]

Seems like a good, and well thought-out plan, Jammer. I commend you on your up-sized anchor rational. If you can manage the larger size with no real additional effort, then why not.

Your choice of anchor seems good. It's one of the top and consistent performers in the tests I've seen, and in the reports from users. I'm sure the error bars around all these top performers overlap sufficiently to make the differences quite specific to the conditions. IOW, my sense is they're all pretty good.

But I'm not sure I'd call Sarca and Mantus "boutique" makers. Personally, I would probably choose an Excel if I was replacing my old-style Rocna, and would go for a Mantus as a backup. But I think the Vulcan looks great.

Your choice of chain seems good. I'm in the market to replace my 3/8" chain. I may do as you did. I wonder what the shipping costs are to Newfoundland....

[SVTatia]

I also agree the choices you made are pretty robust, but I also think 275' of chain is overkill, but would not cost a lot less than 150' due to volume purchase.
An advantage is that you can end for end your chain after a while, and assuming you have good drainage in your chain locker, most of the chain will be new. But you pay the price on the extra weight.
I purchase an Excel for my boat, I would not consider it a boutique anchor, but the Vulcan is also a great anchor.
Question: will your snubber be a bridle? At 26' I assume not.

[dfelsent]

My local mooring company buys a mixed truckload of quality chain every spring. They have the logistics worked out. They told me to check with them before buying chain anywhere else. You may have a business nearby that will help.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

...

Your choice of chain seems good. I'm in the market to replace my 3/8" chain. I may do as you did. I wonder what the shipping costs are to Newfoundland....

Hey Mike, will you replace with another 3/8?
I am looking for a partner to split a barrel or half barrel of 5/16 grade 43 Titan chain. I need 200', but I'm in Ontario though.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

I found that treating the links to be painted with gelcoat stain remover (acid) and then thoroughly rinsing and drying them, then applying spray paint works fine. The acid etches the galvanizing a bit for better adhesion. The paint does wear over time and eventually needs to be re-applied, but it stays visible for quite a while.

I'll ponder that. Was there a specific product you found effective? Did you follow the regular directions (for removing stains from gelcoat) or did you use some other concentration and contact time?

[Jammer]

Several of you suggested less chain due to the weight in the bow. 5/16" chain is a pound a foot so there's a potential savings of around 175 pounds if I drop from 275 feet of chain to 100 feet of chain. I'm not sure it's worth it, especially in Lake Superior, where anchorages tend to be deeper and rocky. Too, I'm effectively singlehanded and managing the rope-to-chain transition while weighing anchor adds extra steps.

Usually when I talk to people about anchoring, the people who have done it a lot tend to dislike hybrid rodes.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I'll ponder that. Was there a specific product you found effective? Did you follow the regular directions (for removing stains from gelcoat) or did you use some other concentration and contact time?

I used the spray on Starbrite stuff. I think I just gave it 5 minutes or so, then rinsed. I've heard of people using vinegar for this purpose as well.

[Jim Cate]

Usually when I talk to people about anchoring, the people who have done it a lot tend to dislike hybrid rodes.

Yep, count me as one who tried hybrid and went back to all chain for a serious cruising boat that will depend upon their anchor in unknown anchorages in remote areas.

To us, the slight performance hit of the extra weight in the bow was a small price to pay for t he security of an all chain rode

Jim

[rslifkin]

I'm currently running a mixed rode (90/300) and from a handling perspective, it's fine. But my windlass will feed the splice through and handle rope on the gypsy, so there's no fussing around to use it. At some point I'm likely to add more chain, however, mostly for chafe resistance.


With a windlass that requires a switch to the capstan for rope, a mixed rode is definitely not a great choice.

[rgleason]

If our boat was as big, we'd do as rlifkin, with more line.