Re-Anchoring (Just before Dark)

[thomm225]

So I made the same mistake as usual and anchored near shore rather than behind the "cover" of the cement ships at Kiptopeke (I wanted to be out of the strong current)

I took a nap after arriving and the wind came up kicking up the waves which woke me just before dark. Although I didn't want to I forced myself to pull the anchor and move

The problem was the wind was up and the current was rippin...….coming in strong. Best spot was just ahead of another boat, a nice boat at least 46' long

The anchor brought up maybe a pound of mud which was on my deck the next morning. I moved to the spot I wanted, put the motor in neutral , went forward and dropped anchor as the boat slowed.

My old CQR Anchor caught as usual and swung the boat around inline with the current. I was now 5-6 boat lengths in front of the other boat...….this after easing out more scope

I couldn't help but think of all the folks here that say a CQR tends to drag, not stay dug in etc so I lost a bit of beauty rest checking and rechecking my position. The tide turned around 1-2 am and started running super strong going out. I stay 5-6 boat lengths off the other boat but that doesn't mean I wasn't concerned about it...…………..

[SSgtPitt]

Despite the horrible reputation and many reviews saying it should be tossed overboard and left, nearly every single boat in this Texas marina has one, including me, along with two other anchors.
Apparently these anchors work and work well for muddy conditions.

[Benz]

There are some bottoms, especially those of clay-ey mud, where just about anything will hold. A CQR is fine for some bottoms; but there are anchors that are good across a wider range of bottoms. At the end of the day, it is good that your anchor held.

[Suijin]

The CQR works very well in mud, and resets well with wind/current changes. I don't think anyone will dispute that it's "generally OK" for mud. I rode out 35 knot tropical storms in mine and lost about the same amount of sleep that I would have with any anchor.

But everything is relative, and if you at some point happen to acquire a new gen anchor you'll immediately notice the difference. They set faster, hold harder, and work well in a wider range of bottom conditions than the CQR. The reason so many people maintain that the CQR is not such a great anchor is not because it's a bad anchor, it's because they have experience with something better.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Suijin

The CQR works very well in mud, and resets well with wind/current changes. I don't think anyone will dispute that it's "generally OK" for mud. I rode out 35 knot tropical storms in mine and lost about the same amount of sleep that I would have with any anchor.

But everything is relative, and if you at some point happen to acquire a new gen anchor you'll immediately notice the difference. They set faster, hold harder, and work well in a wider range of bottom conditions than the CQR. The reason so many people maintain that the CQR is not such a great anchor is not because it's a bad anchor, it's because they have experience with something better.

I understand that the new gen anchors are probably "better", but I've somehow turned into one of those old school guys that doesn't replace a thing that works. I mean they did use these CQR's for many, many years right? (plus I majored in History because I like History)

I drive old Jeeps (Grand Cherokees). I've had 6 of them. I know their tendencies and give my son either the old ones or the ones I don't necessarily like .....whether it be burning too much gas in the city or whatever.

The one I drive now has 228,000 miles plus on it. (we got 335,000 out of a 1991) It's a 2002. I have a spare though which is a 2004. I was complaining about the signal lights not working the other day and a coworker basically implied that it was time for me to get a new or newer vehicle. The locks don't work either unless the door is close or nearly closed

The signal light problem is a relay that needs to be re-seated (I beat on the dashboard a few times in the general neighborhood of the relay and "fixed" that problem then and there) and the signal light problem is wires going to the driver's side door window/lock control almost entirely broken

Long story short I fixed both problems that afternoon.........with stuff lying around. I do have jump wires handing out of the protective cover I ripped open between the frame and the door though but it works. I jumpered and taped the connections

Point is it gets me back and forth to work just as well as a new $40,000 Jeep GC even though they are better. Heat and A/C work and I don't worry about vehicles parking to close or hitting it with their doors

As for anchoring, I do inspect the rusty shackle on my chain every trip and usually wire brush it to check it's thickness when I return. Maybe 3/8" left

[Mike OReilly]

I don't recall reading a CQR is a bad anchor. It's just that the new scoop style anchors are better. It's really that simple.

Now, you could argue the CQR is 'good enough'. This is my standard for a lot of things, and I'm far from embracing the idea of new is always better. I use an Aries windvane and am perfectly happy with my manual windlass.

But when it comes to anchoring, which I do most of the time when out, then 'better' is definitely worth it.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I don't recall reading a CQR is a bad anchor. It's just that the new scoop style anchors are better. It's really that simple.

Now, you could argue the CQR is 'good enough'. This is my standard for a lot of things, and I'm far from embracing the idea of new is always better. I use an Aries windvane and am perfectly happy with my manual windlass.

But when it comes to anchoring, which I do most of the time when out, then 'better' is definitely worth it.

One thing for sure, it's a lot easier to take one side or the other on the anchor question when at a keyboard than when anchored a few boat lengths from a lee shore or from some expensive boats to leeward. (or down stream)

The other night winds were steady around 12-15 and the current strong so it wasn't the worst situation but you still worry and check every time you wake up. Depth was 18' - 14' (below the keel) near the sunken ships as I remember. I moved from a depth of 8'

Kiptopeke Cement Ships: https://www.secretsoftheeasternshore...-of-kiptopeke/

[Whisper Cappy]

Got caught in 40 knot blow after bunking down for the night. Drug anchor (CQR) and caught it just just before real danger struck. Tried to reset, no success, still drug. Do not want to fault anchor since boat was new to me.
Found a spot at the dock of a restaurant in the cove where others were docked for the night. When back at home dock bought a 45 lbs. Manson Supreme with 100' chain and 100' of rode. Went through many heavy blows with not an inch of drag. Boat weighed 14 tons.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by thomm225

One thing for sure, it's a lot easier to take one side or the other on the anchor question when at a keyboard than when anchored a few boat lengths from a lee shore or from some expensive boats to leeward. (or down stream)

The other night winds were steady around 12-15 and the current strong so it wasn't the worst situation but you still worry and check every time you wake up. Depth was 18' - 14' (below the keel) near the sunken ships as I remember. I moved from a depth of 8'

Kiptopeke Cement Ships: https://www.secretsoftheeasternshore...-of-kiptopeke/

We had a 66# CQR and it dug in very well in many storms. We did eventually trade in the CQR for a larger Rocna and will say the new gen anchors do have an edge on the older style anchors. If the CQR is working for you, keep it.

A little off topic, but do you have any tips/suggestions where to anchor off Kiptopeke? We'll be heading that way in Sept and want to try some cobia fishing. We draw 6.5' so we will not be doing anything inside the 7' line close to shore. Yes, I know there is a strong current which eventually will be opposing the wind.


Bill O.

[thomm225]

My CQR came detached once but I blame myself not the anchor

I took a chance and anchored just inside the bridge that leads out to the Ocean. CBBT (Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel) basically separates bay from ocean

I anchored behind an island (Fisherman's) in 7' of water. It was nice and calm with the Island blocking the wind but I was to close to the channel and the high bridge section

The wind rotated and cranked up. I started getting breaking waves in the area and that woke me up plus the fact that they were on the beam/stern. Depth finder read 3'

I went to see if I could do anything but the wind was strong and it had the anchor rope tight against the boat. Boat was pointing with the current but the wind was holding the boat on the anchor rope and waves were on the stern or abeam depending on boat swing. This a 3 am. I tried a couple things that didn't work and went below to wait the tide out but the waves were tough.

I went up again to check around 4 am or so saw another wave break behind me then took one over the side and got soaked and half the cockpit was full of water. The boat was acting funny so I checked the anchor and it was easy to pull so I knew this was bad as I had only 3' under the keel

As with many problems, mine started the day before when my jib head strap came loose and the jib came down. The jib was all over the foredeck and the anchor rode cleat below it

Now I have the anchor, anchor line, and jib all over the foredeck and boat is drifting but thanks to the channel I'm going along with the current more than with the wind. Wind direction is toward shallow water.

If the jib had been on the furler, I could have simply unfurled it and sailed to a new spot and my main problem would have been trying to see. There are lots of fish nets here on pilings coming off the shore quite far out

But in this case I had to try and start the outboard which I knew even if it started it would be popping out due to the waves breaking etc

Long story short I got it going and navigated with depth, glows off the pilings, and lighted land marks a mile or so away to a spot between the nets/pilings in about 23' of water but by now I'm feeling seasick. I anchored with waves still a bit on the beam, laid down and repeated to myself than the waves were easing and the boat was turning to keep from blowing chunks

I awoke around 0730 with the bow wave too ....... spend the next hour or so retrieving the halyard and getting the jib up. (I tied it on and taped the knot. It's still like this btw?!) Sailed to cement ships for cover and had coffee!

This was my closest call of being pushed ashore.

https://www.fws.gov/refuge/Fisherman_Island/about.html

[thinwater]

They work. I've used them. In sand-mud you need one size up, and on hard bottoms, rock, and weeds, there are better anchors.



But think about the math on a new purchase. If you go the same size (dubious) a Rocna-Mantus-Manson-Spade is 1.5-3 times cheaper and if and if you go up one size with the CQR, as you will need to for equal holding, it is 2-4 times more expensive for no up-side.


So if you like your CQR and don't anchor over hard bottoms or very soft bottoms, keep it. But buying one CQR would require a serious explanation. I'd need to understand how it dramatically outperforms Manson and Spade, and that is a tall order.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by thinwater

They work. I've used them. In sand-mud you need one size up, and on hard bottoms, rock, and weeds, there are better anchors.



But think about the math on a new purchase. If you go the same size (dubious) a Rocna-Mantus-Manson-Spade is 1.5-3 times cheaper and if and if you go up one size with the CQR, as you will need to for equal holding, it is 2-4 times more expensive for no up-side.


So if you like your CQR and don't anchor over hard bottoms or very soft bottoms, keep it. But buying one CQR would require a serious explanation. I'd need to understand how it dramatically outperforms Manson and Spade, and that is a tall order.

I should qualify my argument with the fact that I use it (the CQR) because it came with my $2,000 boat when I bought it as did it's other 4 anchors. (which haven't been used yet)

Btw, it also came with dodger, autopilot, depth, GPS (2), VHF, and another set of chain and new rode totaling 250', bimini, and other stuff

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by thomm225

One thing for sure, it's a lot easier to take one side or the other on the anchor question when at a keyboard than when anchored a few boat lengths from a lee shore or from some expensive boats to leeward. (or down stream)

The other night winds were steady around 12-15 and the current strong so it wasn't the worst situation but you still worry and check every time you wake up. Depth was 18' - 14' (below the keel) near the sunken ships as I remember. I moved from a depth of 8'

Am currently anchored on the west coast of Newfoundland.

Anchored not more that 100' from low tide rocks, perhaps 200' from (lee) shore. Last night 25 knots. Slept very well on my Rocna.

I used CQR as my bower for years. As everyone with experience with both are saying, new anchors are simply better. They set easier. They dig in easier and better. And they reset easier.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by thomm225

I should qualify my argument with the fact that I use it (the CQR) because it came with my $2,000 boat when I bought it as did it's other 4 anchors. (which haven't been used yet)

Btw, it also came with dodger, autopilot, depth, GPS (2), VHF, and another set of chain and new rode totaling 250', bimini, and other stuff

There you go. I buy new stuff ONLY when I need it. I bought a Manson Supreme, but only because the Delta that came with the boat was too small by any standard (25 pounds for a 34-foot catamaran in a soft mud area). Most of the other anchors I've used came with the boats and were fine.


(I've tested all sorts for articles, but that does not mean I ran out and bought them. I used them, tested them, and then put them back in the garage or returned them.)

[Mike Banks]

I suspect that some of those complaining about CQR anchors, or the Manson equivalents, are really complaining about cheap plough knock-offs which look similar but have little resemblance in performance..

As someone else said--these good quality anchors hold well in most bottoms. They are a good all-round anchor, and recognosed by insurance companies as a high performance anchor. That comment does not extend to the many copies that are around for half-price or less..

Mansons are the only serious replacement for the genuine CQR, and I always had two Ploughs (Mansons) aboard. Among the best of the modern anchors, is the Manson Supreme.

I never dragged a Manson, of any type, except in gravel--but I always used them on the heavy side. The worst holding I have ever experienced was in gravel. Nothing will hold in that stuff--one has to move elsewhere.