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Old 29-10-2011, 18:05   #1
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Relocating Windlass Remote

I want to move a windlass remote (Quick HRC 1002L) to the cockpit. Given that the remote wires will run the length of a 40 ft boat (the solenoid is at the bow), what gauge wire should I use?
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Old 29-10-2011, 18:20   #2
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Re: Relocating windlass remote

Here is a great little calculator for ya:

Amps and Wire Gauge - 12V Circuit
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Old 29-10-2011, 18:42   #3
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Re: Relocating windlass remote

Hi,

I used 12 gauge from the relay at the windlass to the switch in the cockpit.
This wire does not carry much amps at all.

Best of luck,
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Old 30-10-2011, 05:14   #4
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Re: Relocating Windlass Remote

I think that the relay draws about 5 amps. So 14 gauge would be fine, giving about an 8% voltage drop over a 70' RT lenght. BTW, you don't need to relocate the switch. They can be paralleled and work fine. I have foot switches at the bow and a rocker switch at the helm.

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Old 30-10-2011, 06:25   #5
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Re: Relocating Windlass Remote

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefossl View Post
I want to move a windlass remote (Quick HRC 1002L) to the cockpit. Given that the remote wires will run the length of a 40 ft boat (the solenoid is at the bow), what gauge wire should I use?
Mike--

In addition to the wired controller, Quick also makes a wireless version that we installed on our boat when I installed our Maxwell Windlass in 2006. The receiver is in a small compartment under our forward berth, adjacent to our duel directional controller. The transmitter is virtually the same unit as the wired hand-held controller which one can clip to one's belt (and I keep connected to my person with a small lanyard and carabiner clip). With this we can deploy and retrieve the anchor from anywhere on the boat. (We did not use foot switches because of their failure rate.)

One example of this type controller is Outback Marine Wireless DC 4 Channel Relay Controller With 2 Key Fob's

FWIW...
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