Replace Manual Windlass With Electric (merged)

[petert96753]

I want to replace my manual windlass with an electric model . . . unfortunately the current windlass is not mounted on the deck, but on the bow platform (see photos attached). Because most electric windlass are deck mounted and pass the chain through a built-in down-tube to the chain locker . . . I'm trying to figure the best way to replace the old with the new . . .

IMG_2605 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Would love to hear thoughts or suggestions . . .

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by petert96753

I want to replace my manual windlass with an electric model . . . unfortunately the current windlass is not mounted on the deck, but on the bow platform (see photos attached). Because most electric windlass are deck mounted and pass the chain through a built-in down-tube to the chain locker . . . I'm trying to figure the best way to replace the old with the new . . .

IMG_2605 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Would love to hear thoughts or suggestions . . .

It surprises me that your windlass works with no chainpipe to a locker for freefall of the chain.

Have you considered drilling a hole for the chain to go into a chainpipe that is underneath the gypsy?

Since there is no current chainpipe you can mount the windlass anywhere that the deck is reinforced by a bulkhead underneath.

kind regards,

[Chasing Summer]

SkiprJohn ... you bring up something I've not thought about. My boat has never had a windlass on it ... and there is no bulkhead near that is attached. The deck is solid, no core, and has a 1/2" backer under the entire foredeck. There is the forepeak buldhead about two feet away but I'd have to glass it in. I was going to run under deck stringers, 3 layers of 1/2" plywood 3" wide under each bolt pattern. Then drop straight down into a 16", round, heavy fiberglass locker with a drain. Oh, yes, and a coil of 3/4" line attached to the end of the chain.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

[petert96753]

It doesn't work, which is one of the reasons I want to replace it . . . twin bow roller, so I would have to move the windlass anyway to run the chain pipe straight down through the bow platform . . .

[ryon]

I don't need to comment on what you have, you already know its limitations. You need more than a 90 degree wrap around the wildcat. Work on the geometry. Put in a chain fall and idler, then think about electrics.

[sparrowhawk1]

I have an electric windlass in a well. It has the option of having the chain go below. but I prefer to keep it flaked in the well. Its more work when I'm hauling the anchor but it's worth it just to know in an emergency the anchor can be deployed without any chance of the chain hanging up. I've also hauled up some very stinky mud and definitely don't want that below with me.

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by Chasing Summer

SkiprJohn ... you bring up something I've not thought about. My boat has never had a windlass on it ... and there is no bulkhead near that is attached. The deck is solid, no core, and has a 1/2" backer under the entire foredeck. There is the forepeak buldhead about two feet away but I'd have to glass it in. I was going to run under deck stringers, 3 layers of 1/2" plywood 3" wide under each bolt pattern. Then drop straight down into a 16", round, heavy fiberglass locker with a drain. Oh, yes, and a coil of 3/4" line attached to the end of the chain.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

I am by no means an expert on what you are asking. I can only state that the forces on a windlass are pretty severe in some situations especially if you forget to use a snubber or it can't be attached quickly enough. In my foredeck rebuild I'm going to mount the windlass as near the forepeak bulkhead as possible. It will be a bit aft of that bulkhead. I think the build up of stringers you have in mind will be enough to handle the load depending upon how long they will be. How long will those stringers be? You'll want to spread the load under your foredeck so that it isn't concentrated in just the area under your windlass. I tried a quick lookup in my little library here but couldn't find anything that addressed the issue directly.

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by petert96753

It doesn't work, which is one of the reasons I want to replace it . . . twin bow roller, so I would have to move the windlass anyway to run the chain pipe straight down through the bow platform . . .

I think you want to keep the windlass in pretty much the same place but put a chainpipe where the chain can drop off the gypsy and go below. Is that what you are thinking? You'll only be using mostly chain on one roller so line up your chain gypsy with that roller to get a fair lead. From the photos I don't see heavy cleats for your snubber or for securing your chain. Is that further aft?

[petert96753]

I'll try this again . . . I want to replace my old manual windless with a new electric one . . . currently I have no chain pipe for the drop into well. I think I will have to use another horizontal windlass due to the current mounting . . . see attached photos . . . I AM LOOKING FOR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WHICH ELECTRIC WINDLASS TO BUY AND ANY THOUGHTS ON HOW TO INSTALL A CHAINPIPE IN THE CURRENT LOCATION!
Yes, I know my current setup does not have a chain pipe in the correct location, yes, I have sturdy cleat for chain snubber . . . my boat is 32' 16,000 lbs . . . I have 250' feet of 5/16 chain on a 33 lbs Bruce anchor . . . looking for best horizontal electric windlass to handle this . . .
Thank You . . .

[shane malone]

I would say Lewmar (part #6672011108-138) v2 gypsy only or (part #6672021108-138) v2 gypsy/drum. they have 1433max pull but draw 80amp

[forsailbyowner]

I guess you dont like vertical windlasses? I wouldnt be without mine. Im solo most of the time and being able to motor up to the anchor and run it up from the helm has spoiled me. I bought a lewmar v3 but am unimpressed in its quality. Next go round it will be anchorlift as they have the same specs and cost less. For the $2300 I paid for the lewmar I didnt expect things to be falling apart as fast as it has. The arm that I guess is supposed to hold the chain to the gypsy is thin almost like sheet metal and hollow. The pin it rides on is about 3/8" thick and narrows down to a skinny 1/4" threads on the bottom(where it broke off) The plate that covers the hole and chain where it goes down broke off and went overboard at the same time. It still works but imho all the crap that fell off was of poor design. Parts are inflated and it would cost me a bundle if i was inclined to replace the missing pieces.

Anchorlift Windlass Barracuda

This one has similiar specs for almost 1/4 of the price and the construction doesnt lend towards the failures ive had with the lewmar. I feel like I was taken big time.

[JonJo]

Cannot help with windlass - but check that your 5/16th inch chain, BBB, G30, G43 actually fits the gypsy. They are all slightly different and I'm not sure of tolerances (yours for a chain that jambs) and the gypsy to take slightly different sizes. Muirs told me recently that their imperial gypsies are designed for G43 chain.

If your chain is American - the type, BBB, G43 etc, should be marked on the chain, you'll need to look hard if the chain is old but you should have at least one mark every 3', maybe every link - some marks are a bit vague. If you can find no mark it might be imported chain

Jonathan

[Jonna]

We also had a Lewmar V3, but only for about a half a year. The material they use for it is very poor quality.

I don't think I have to repeat everything here. We wrote a blog about it and it's still on the front page of our site, S/Y Iiris

We just finished installing a new Lofrans a few days ago. We are very sorry we had to go through the Lewmar phase, because Lofrans had some problems last summer.

So we replaced a Lofrans with a Lewmar and a half a year later again with a new Lofrans.

[petert96753]

I hope these photos come through to show why I can't use a vertical windlass . . . windlass is mounted almost 7" off the deck on bowsprit platform . . .

[Noreastern]

I have the same Hi-Speed windless and I have had great luck with it. Yes it is work hauling anchor but always can use some exercise.

As said and you know it will not work without chain pipe located directly below capstan.

If you do decide to install electric, and if this Hi-Speed is in good shape I would be interested in buying it as back up for mine.