Seatiger SL 555 manual windlass installation

[Mike OReilly]

I’m planning to install a new (old) Seatiger SL555. It seems to be in fine working order, but it has sat idle for many years.

I was planning to open it up before installation and perhaps re-grease the workings. Does anyone have any wisdom on the type of grease I should be using? Will any good industrial-type grease work?

[Fore and Aft]

Mike last week I surveyed a 40-foot steel yacht that had a Seatiger winch, and the owner had used it on his circumnavigation. During his demonstration of it I thought it all looked like too much hard work for me.
Anyway, it seems the question has been asked on another forum.
Cheers

https://www.cruiserlog.com/forums/f4...inch-3119.html

[CSY Man]

I overhauled a 555 years ago and called customer service to ask what grease?
They said salt water wheel bearing grease.
Also, on the small springs you need a light motor oil.
If the windlass had an easy life (Not beaten up) I would leave it alone, but make sure it works of course, using both speeds and not slipping under load before you instal it.
My old one didn’t work right after I serviced it, and I finally removed it and purchased a brand new one just before they quit making them.
It is a great windlass, simple and strong, but in reality I only used it for the last 10-15’ feet to get the anchor off the bottom and up. Much faster to pull the 70-80’ of chain hand over hand, get the boat moving, great exercise…
(I always anchored in shallow waters, Florida and the Bahamas. 5/16” G4 High Test chain and a Delta 55lbs anchor)

[GordMay]

The Simpson-Lawrence “Seatiger 555” manual* recommends Shell “Alvania” [1] on the main shaft, or similar grease, and used Shell “Mytilus A” [2], for the gear train.

* S-L Sea Tiger 555 Installation, Operating, & Maintenance Instructions ➥ https://www.endeavourowners.com/dscs...s%20Manual.pdf

Simpson Lawrence Sea Tiger 555 Parts List ➥ https://www.l-36.com/read_pdf.php?fi...555-Parts-List

[1] Shell “Alvania” ➥ https://shell-livedocs.com/data/publ...01cfe60910.pdf

[2] Shell “Mytilus A” is no longer available.

See also ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ild-12975.html

[BenBowSirocco]

I have rebuilt three of these awesome units so far across different boats we have owned. From full dissasembly to simply inspect and grease depending on their needs, I keep adding them to my boats because they are the best readily available manual windlass around. Really love the dual action handle and fast work. One boat was 300+ feet of 3/8 and a 55lb Rocna and another was 450' of 5/16HT and a 65lb Mantus.



You can give the windlass a "Quick and Easy" re-lube by opening up the bottom and scraping out everything you can with sticks (paint mixers, scraps, whatever) but watch out for the two long springs near the bottom (when working from the bottom opening) as you do not want to damage these with too much stick scrapping aggression. You can google up a schematic to see where these long springs are.

After that, fill the windlass with engine parts cleaner and start scrubbing! Scrub with plastic brushes, tooth brushes, etc. Rinse and repeat.
If you do not typically use parts cleaner (available at most auto parts stores) you can use solvent, but solvent is likely a bit harder on the shaft seals than the parts cleaner. I buy the 5 gallon buckets and if memory serves typically use a couple gallons in this process (the more you use, the less you scrub...)

Once you get it looking clean of old dry grease: drain and blow it out with a leaf blower or compressed air, let it dry out a bit and you are now ready to add fresh grease. I usually use the "waterproof" (water resistant..) wheel bearing grease on everything.



I had one unit that someone actually packed the entire windlass case full of grease. Worked fine, smooth as butter, but I dreaded the day when it needed cleaning... haha

[Mike OReilly]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Ben, that’s very helpful. I’ll open it up and see what I’m dealing with. As.I say, it seems to be operating well, but before I bolt it down, I might as well do what needs doing.

[BenBowSirocco]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

Thanks for all the advice guys. Ben, that’s very helpful. I’ll open it up and see what I’m dealing with. As.I say, it seems to be operating well, but before I bolt it down, I might as well do what needs doing.

Opening up the bottom and looking around with a pen light will tell you pretty much everything you need to know..

You are looking for "dirt", which is actually just dried out grease and sometimes you can get 95% of the "dirt" out by simply pumping in fresh grease from the shaft zerk and just using some scrap sticks. If you open it up and its showing crusty stuff- thats what you want to clean out and replace with fresh.

By the way- I have had 2 with zerks on the shaft and 1 without. So not all models have the shaft grease zerk. If you grease zerk gives you any trouble- replace it. The ball can get frozen, or the unit can get damaged pretty easily.

[wrwakefield]

I had a 555 windlass on my Valiant Esprit 37 decades ago. Great windlass (and workout on occasion w/ 400’ 3/8” BBB chain at the time…) It required very little maintenance. I used NAPA Green Grease (that is the label name) since I also use it in my winches. But any marine trailer hub grease will work fine.

If you have one with a Zerk grease fitting, either keep a SS pipe plug in the hole until ready to grease- when you temporarily install the Zerk fitting- or find a Monel Zerk fitting and leave it in place.

Enjoy your new windlass!

Cheers, Bill

PS: PS: For degreasing winches these days, I use a water based solvent from WD-40. It comes as a concentrate you dilute with water to suit your needs. It works very well and eliminates the VOCs and flammability factor inherent in most other degreasers…. https://amzn.to/3ypmoJJ

[Mike OReilly]

Thanks for the great advice Bill/Ben. Mine does appear to have a grease nipple fitting. Guess I need to get a grease gun.

Another question for all you experts. I just noticed the bolt-holes appear to require some sort of rubber or plastic bushing. I’m assuming it helps with shock absorption… The holes are something like 3/4”. Installation guide suggests using 1/2” bolts. Any guidance on this item? I’m going to have to improvise something.

[wrwakefield]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

Thanks for the great advice Bill/Ben. Mine does appear to have a grease nipple fitting. Guess I need to get a grease gun.

Another question for all you experts. I just noticed the bolt-holes appear to require some sort of rubber or plastic bushing. I’m assuming it helps with shock absorption… The holes are something like 3/4”. Installation guide suggests using 1/2” bolts. Any guidance on this item? I’m going to have to improvise something.

Mike, as I recall this windlass was one of the few to allow for a bushing for the (SS) mounting bolts to be isolated from the aluminum frame. I do not recall what I used, but even a nylon bushing would work- or in the field- wrapping the bolt with strips from a plastic milk carton…. With a large (preferably also isolated) washer under the bolt head, the bushing will not be exposed to UV so bushing material choices are flexible.

I suppose one could even use ‘rubber’ bushings meant for protecting large electrical cables passing through holes… or just fill the 3/4” hole with Sikaflex and drill 1/2” hole through center after it sets… or grease the fastener and then squirt in the Sikaflex… or…

HTH

Cheers, Bill

[Bowdrie]

If you can get Nylon "Flange" bushings great.
If not, along with bushings use a Nylon washer under the bolt heads.
Something to isolate the fasteners from the windlass.
Make d**n sure the mounting surface is flat, more than one 555 have I seen with a busted mounting ear.
Go easy on the torque, you're not tightening head bolts on a D8 Cat.

[Mike OReilly]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the great advice. I’m making progress sourcing the needed materials, but everything is harder up here in NE Newfoundland.