solo anchoring technique

[Mini-Transat]

I'm not young and still sailing solo on a mini-transat boat, with no windlass. What I found most efficent is to anchor by the back (just as the north of europe). It's large, easy access to the water, everythings you need around you, including the anchor stored close (much better for performances). No need to switch on any engine. No risk to go forward and back, no risk for your keel, ...

[Nicholson58]

A lot of got technique offered here.

One of our cruising friends lost his wife, now cruising single handed. He installed a reversing relay with dual controls, bow and binnacle. He doesn’t leave the wheel.

Another cruiser also has a video link to his chart plotter from a bow camera. Pretty nice.

[deltaten]

Hmmm.... ever watch the vids of huge ships deploying the anchor. Appears that a lot of times, the chain is laid serpentine on foredeck and when the chock's driven out, it just spools out.
I've anchored solo from the 'pit by running my rode from the locket back to the 'pit and returning g to the anchor fwd. Givin that one knows the depth and bottom prior to anchoring and prepares ahead of time.

One **could** do the same with all chain if deck condition wasn't an issue.

Another option might be to lay out the chain serpentine on a temporarily protected foredeck with chain secured at a pre-determined length and a trip line set to the anchor release.

Just thinkin' outside the box mebbe ��

[JohnHolland]

Hi, I usually find the centre of the largest area among anchored boats with the radar and drop a waypoint there, ready the anchor and loosen the windlass clutch, then back to helm, come into the wind with autopilot slow fwd, then drift to just ahead of that spot in neutral or in gear if windy, then neutral with AP still on. I go to the bow when sow is 0.0, drop about 3:1 from the bow and watch for 5 min., provide scope as needed, back to helm then a light reverse thrust for a few seconds if needed, then back to bow.
Once settled I revise waypoint to be on the bow to check for dragging/drifting and set my anchor alarm.
Cheers
John

[CarinaPDX]

Rather then working at the technique just fix the problem with reversing solenoids and a remote switch in the cockpit. While you are at it add a chain counter. Then laying out the anchor can be done under control from the cockpit, with steering and power available. I used to have a manual windlass but I realized that the fire drill of running fore-aft to keep both the boat and anchor under control was just an accident waiting to happen.

As others have said, retrieving the anchor can be a challenge as well. Being able to bring in the last 50ft. while in the cockpit controlling the boat solves most of the problems. I will bring in the chain while on the foredeck, knocking down the pile in the locker as I go. When the rode is nearly vertical I knock it down before moving aft, then bring in the anchor so it is hanging from the bow roller (just above the water). I don't trust the counter to be accurate enough to bring the anchor onto the roller, and I can't see what is going on well enough from the cockpit (a video cam is a great idea), so I maneuver to an open space and drift a bit while I secure the anchor.

Get a dual solenoid system with remote and chain counter in the cockpit and you will never dream of going back.

Greg

[Shaneesprit]

Anchoring solo is generally very easy.
Pick a spot know the depth.
I always work with 3 x the depth to start, I prefer the boat moving a little, drop the anchor and follow with the rode obviously the point you drop wants to be your centre point - taking consideration of other boats.
One thing if the boat is moving when you drop anchor then be carful not to get caught in the rode. and be just as careful to secure the end (Some boats will differ but my anchor needs to be cleated off) in shallow water if moving the rode will run out very fast.
You don’t need to be in gear or anyone at the helm to anchor and you rarely need to rush - if you have to rush you probably don’t have room to anchor in the first place.
Think you already know how to set.
Lifting the anchor - pull in all of the slack and allow the boat to lift the anchor out - before lifting the rest - worst case a line between rode and a winch will lift it.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by requiem

Agree that it shouldn't be left in gear. (And while it's not really an anchoring thing, a common way I see people get into trouble docking is they put the boat in gear, get distracted steering, and forget to take it back out of gear.)

My concern would be the bow blowing off, other than that I like the basic idea of heading into the wind/current, being at the bow as the boat comes to a stop, and lowering the anchor. But for some reason the bow always wants to come off, and unattended the boat will rotate until the rode is against the side, possible wanting to wrap the keel.

So I wouldn't be averse to dropping plenty of chain once the boat's drifted a bit past the anchor, and then using the engine to get control again. Curious to hear how others handle it.

I've been single handing down from Hilton Head to FL and have been anchoring where possible. I've now done it in dead calm, 18 kts gusting 25, wind with and against tide, and absolutely no wind or current at all.

TBH it hasn't been much different than doing it with my wife. Of biggest concern is having the boat stopped when the anchor hits the seabed, and paying the chain out as the boat moves back to drop it in a nice line. The biggest problem has been the no wind/no current situation that needed some reverse. I just did as the above recommended, albeit I had to make 3 trips to put in a spot of reverse.

Make sure your windlass clutch will let the chain run as the boat moves, or put a small pile on the bottom that you'll then pull straight as you back. Otherwise you could pull out the anchor prematurely.

Another issue I have is my boat is largely governed by current not wind, so I have to bear that in mind when setting up my initial alignment.

Other than that, easy peasy.

Getting it back up, clean, anchor stowed and cleated off etc when in some decent wind or current is a bigger issue as the boat is free to move at that point. When needed I'll just get it up, get on course, engage George, then go back forward to finish the job.

[Kettlewell]

Really? Not even a boat length between you and the next boat? We're talking about anchoring, not a mooring ball field, right? I can't imagine.

Sometimes! I also anchor in places where the tail end of my boat is almost aground when I finally get settled. Precision anchoring is sometimes called for. In any case, I'm not a fan of anchoring while moving forward downwind. Doesn't the anchor chain/line lead under your boat when doing that? I don't want my hull, prop, rudder anywhere near that.

[Me and Her]

I have a hunter 340 and solo most the time. My setup has a dual solenoid for raise and drop, both on the bow and in the cockpit. It's well worth the dollars to switch out the solenoid to an up down and run a second control. Granted, due to my chain locker design I need to pull the anchor at the bow if solo. But 2 am. Unfamiliar anchorage or nasty winds, the cockpit controls have saved my but more times than I can count!!!!!. Yes, it costs money, but if you solo all the time it's a life saver

[Hasbeen]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Obviously, you need plenty of room to use forward deployment, and then your anchor is likely to dig in facing the wrong direction, meaning it has to reset once you drift back downwind.

In the great barrier reef waters we have things called tides. The tidal flow in many places can reach over 3 knots. In most anchorages your anchor will have to reset every 6 hours or so. Best make sure you have an anchor type that resets well.


When well out into the Pacific islands a coupling in my transmission failed. Although it had Stewart Turner cast into the steel flange the company in Sydney could find no reference to the party anywhere. Reasonable as it was a pre WW11 instillation.


I lashed up a connection which I thought would give me a few minutes motoring in an emergency, & decided to sail the 4500 nautical miles to Sydney to fit a new engine. I made this a cruise via the Great Barrier Reef from a Cairns entry, so did a lot of engine less anchoring I used a variation of S V Grace's technique, to avoid chain against hull. It worked perfectly in hundreds of anchorages, although probably none as crowded as many experienced by North American sailors.


I might mention I had no anchor winch so was man handling anchor & chain out of often 80 & sometimes over 120 feet of water in the islands & on the reef. I had no trouble hauling the anchor & sailing out of estuaries & harbors. My 40 footer was easily handled & very responsive, making things easier than most yachts. See my Album for what she was.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by EmeraldCoastSailor

For retrieval, I installed a relatively inexpensive remote control (designed for truck winches) so that I can raise anchor from helm in windy or close quarters conditions.

Originally Posted by argonauta1

I had a Lofrens and I vaguely recall that while there was only an up button, the actual motor could be operated two way with the addition of a remote hand held controller. I'd chat with a marine orientated technician and check this out. Hugh

Unfortunately many of us can't do this as our anchor lockers aren't properly designed for decent amounts of chain. I for example have to push the chain around every 20 or so feet for the last 100'. OP should def. check this out in his own boat before purchasing and installing a remote.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

Unfortunately many of us can't do this as our anchor lockers aren't properly designed for decent amounts of chain. I for example have to push the chain around every 20 or so feet for the last 100'. OP should def. check this out in his own boat before purchasing and installing a remote.

The price of form over function which is a major flaw amongst many designers..

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Sometimes! I also anchor in places where the tail end of my boat is almost aground when I finally get settled. Precision anchoring is sometimes called for. In any case, I'm not a fan of anchoring while moving forward downwind. Doesn't the anchor chain/line lead under your boat when doing that? I don't want my hull, prop, rudder anywhere near that.

Helps to have a bowsprit. Chain is heavy and doesn't get fouled on the prop or rudder under controlled conditions. Would never deploy forward with rope rode!

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Hasbeen

In the great barrier reef waters we have things called tides. The tidal flow in many places can reach over 3 knots. In most anchorages your anchor will have to reset every 6 hours or so. Best make sure you have an anchor type that resets well.

A well designed new-gen anchor proven to work well in the bottoms that you anchor makes all the difference in the world for reliable holding, setting and resetting!

Here in PNW we usually anchor in mud but also mud/sand, rocks/pebbles, etc.

What many casual cruisers don't know about anchoring using chain rode, especially if you use a good amount of scope, is that the weight of the chain will hold the boat during a tidal shift without needing to reset. 200 feet of 5/16 HT chain weights about 200 pounds and when dragging along the bottom it will create a bight and for my boat it takes @30+ knots of wind to fully extend and reset the anchor in the other direction, especially in mud.

I always set a waypoint and use tracks on my MFD and always know where the boat is in relation to my anchor (dual helm boat, interior MFD on while anchored, which is most of the time) and have grown to love this phenomenon, another strong reason to favor chain rode.

Funny story about this- we ducked out a north storm in a protected cove in the Gulf Islands and the wind shifted south the following day so our anchor was behind us.

A young couple in a smaller boat (most boats are smaller than ours!) pulled alongside us and dropped anchor, and using my radar I could see they were right over our anchor. I called out to them that they are right over our anchor and we are leaving early in the morning.

The girlfriend/wife of the couple responded "There is no way we are over your anchor!" I was a bit shocked, but let it go and the following morning as we raised anchor the boyfriend/husband of the couple was at the helm monitoring our progress and I assume ready to move if needed, for which I was grateful!

When we reached our anchor and broke it off the bottom, our bow was @20 feet from them. They didn't need to move but it was close and I hope the girlfriend/wife learned about the above phenomenon and to not "assume" you know where another boat's anchor is.

[Auklet]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

A well designed new-gen anchor proven to work well in the bottoms that you anchor makes all the difference in the world for reliable holding, setting and resetting!

Here in PNW we usually anchor in mud but also mud/sand, rocks/pebbles, etc.

What many casual cruisers don't know about anchoring using chain rode, especially if you use a good amount of scope, is that the weight of the chain will hold the boat during a tidal shift without needing to reset. 200 feet of 5/16 HT chain weights about 200 pounds and when dragging along the bottom it will create a bight and for my boat it takes @30+ knots of wind to fully extend and reset the anchor in the other direction, especially in mud.

I always set a waypoint and use tracks on my MFD and always know where the boat is in relation to my anchor (dual helm boat, interior MFD on while anchored, which is most of the time) and have grown to love this phenomenon, another strong reason to favor chain rode.

Funny story about this- we ducked out a north storm in a protected cove in the Gulf Islands and the wind shifted south the following day so our anchor was behind us.

A young couple in a smaller boat (most boats are smaller than ours!) pulled alongside us and dropped anchor, and using my radar I could see they were right over our anchor. I called out to them that they are right over our anchor and we are leaving early in the morning.

The girlfriend/wife of the couple responded "There is no way we are over your anchor!" I was a bit shocked, but let it go and the following morning as we raised anchor the boyfriend/husband of the couple was at the helm monitoring our progress and I assume ready to move if needed, for which I was grateful!

When we reached our anchor and broke it off the bottom, our bow was @20 feet from them. They didn't need to move but it was close and I hope the girlfriend/wife learned about the above phenomenon and to not "assume" you know where another boat's anchor is.

Interesting. So in the end, they were not over your anchor when you were up short for recovery. I suppose I would have gone up and pointed out the anchor’s location. You don’t say if 20 ft from the bow or stern.

I rarely know the level of seamanship and/or attentiveness of the folks on boats anchored near me unless we arrive together. I see and hear a lot of “goofy” stuff coming from skippers/captains trying to anchor where space is tight.

Last month I and two other yachts were anchored in a smallish-sized anchorage at Santa Cruz Island off California (northern Channel Islands), each on a single hook, and well separated. Nobody was in there when we arrived in mid-week. Had been there all alone for two nights when this 55-ft power boat arrives late in the afternoon of our third day. Skipper looks around, sees that we are all lying to a single hook but wants to moor (deploy bow and stern) near us. Now there was ample room within the shelter of the anchorage, if perhaps a bit further out, for him to lay to a single hook. Weather was calm and so also the forecast for the night. But he wants to be in deeper, closer to shore; thus putting himself in one or another of our swinging radius.

He comes within hail, confirms that we’re are all on single hook, then “asks permission” to lay two anchors over next to “the wall” which was more than two hundred feet from us at the western edge. I said, if over there, then fine. Then he says:“I’ve been coming here regularly for 30 y and have never seen boats in here lying to a single hook. It’s always bow & stern.” Then after 20 min or more of “setting anchors” he comes to rest inside the swing radius of two of our boats for the night. I protest, politely. I advise him that he is knowingly going against anchoring protocol and etiquette, and is also doing something contrary to Admiralty Law (of which he evidently was aware) by “fouling” our sea berth mooring too near us. The reply: “I don’t think I’m fouling your berth. Anyway, I’ll stand watch all night, in case.” Then he repeats something like “everyone coming in here [evidently from Santa Barbara, it turns out] moors with two anchors.” The message is clear; that we “out-of-towners” are in the wrong. Kind of reminiscent of the “Surfer Nazi” attitude of San Diego County. Public beaches, but “Locals Only” may surf here, etc. Fairly juvenile.

The night passes without incident. One of our boats departs early leaving additional space closer to shore so he dropped back a few dozen feet to clear my radius. I dink over to chat with the skipper and to ask WHY anchor here when there was ample room around. He tells me he and crew had come across the “potato patch” (narrow channel between Santa Rosa and Sant Cruz islands) that previous day and had gotten “beaten up.” When they arrived at Fry’s, they just wanted to have a restful night (i.e., no rocking) at secure anchor. (Like standing watch all night instead of sleeping?) He admitted anchoring (probably) too near us and another boat, but “everybody anchors on two hooks in here.” But then apologized to me. I accepted and we parted in peace.

But, what a bunch of ********!