Starboard for windlass base?

[Cheechako]

Another thought is to just laminate a thick fiberglass plate on your deck. Lay down sheet wax or wax paper, lay up the plate (it will fit the curve of your deck this way too!) Let it harden up and take it home and trim with a saw, sand smooth etc.

[Dougtiff]

Use the IPE if you have it, it will last for ever, it's not that hard on saw's, i use it alot, never rots.

[SailorGerry]

I recently replaced the Starboard under my windlass due to structural failure. Replaced with Coosa Composites Polyurethane Foam with Woven Roving & Continuous Strand Fiberglass board called Bluewater 26. FWIW, local surveyor says he flunks boats using Starboard in structural applications.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by SailorGerry

I recently replaced the Starboard under my windlass due to structural failure.

Will you describe the failure?

Mark

[SailorGerry]

Originally Posted by colemj

Will you describe the failure?

Mark

The Starboard had large compression cracks at the windlass bolt holes, and was not providing adequate longitudinal support when the windlass experienced torque loading. Among other limitations, Starboard just doesn't have enough panel stiffness for structural applications IMO.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by SailorGerry

The Starboard had large compression cracks at the windlass bolt holes, and was not providing adequate longitudinal support when the windlass experienced torque loading. Among other limitations, Starboard just doesn't have enough panel stiffness for structural applications IMO.

Thanks. Was this a Starboard structure holding the windlass, or just a pad the windlass sat on? Is it a vertical windlass or horizontal? We have a horizontal and I can't picture torque loading on it. I also don't understand what you mean by longitudinal support.

I'm hoping to learn from your experience if I need to readdress my use of Starboard. So far, I can't see how it is of any concern in my application.

Mark

[SailorGerry]

Originally Posted by colemj

Thanks. Was this a Starboard structure holding the windlass, or just a pad the windlass sat on? Is it a vertical windlass or horizontal? We have a horizontal and I can't picture torque loading on it. I also don't understand what you mean by longitudinal support.

I'm hoping to learn from your experience if I need to readdress my use of Starboard. So far, I can't see how it is of any concern in my application.

Mark

Sorry - maybe too much Boeing speak... we have a Lorfrans Tigres horizontal windlass. The front of the windlass was torquing down under load (fore & aft) and crushing the forward edge of the starboard, while lifting the aft edge. The Starboard was intended to reinforce he FRP (fiberglass) OEM windlass deck deck, but SB was never designed to do this! King clearly states this, but it's such a great product, people get carried away and try to us use it for everything!!

[Jim Cate]

Perhaps I am being obtuse, but folks have been bolting windlasses and other high load hardware to timber decks for a very long time, and structurally it works just fine. So, in the ops place I would use a bit of that Ipe timber to build my spacer. I'd put a coat or two of penetrating epoxy on it, especially on the end grain, to keep water out, and then I'd paint it to match the deck colour. No more maintenance than the deck would be needed, the compressive strength of the timber is more than adequate, and Bob's your uncle.

Why make a big techo project out of a simple task?

Jim

[SailorGerry]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Perhaps I am being obtuse, but folks have been bolting windlasses and other high load hardware to timber decks for a very long time, and structurally it works just fine. So, in the ops place I would use a bit of that Ipe timber to build my spacer. I'd put a coat or two of penetrating epoxy on it, especially on the end grain, to keep water out, and then I'd paint it to match the deck colour. No more maintenance than the deck would be needed, the compressive strength of the timber is more than adequate, and Bob's your uncle.

Why make a big techo project out of a simple task?

Jim

I agree entirely - I have a 17' wood Thistle, and wood (on a strength to weight ratio) is an awesome structural building material! Problem is, it requires some level of prep or maintenance. My wife call me an epoxy moron as I'm always coating or bonding something in epoxy. Just need to keep the UV off it!

[Terra Nova]

Most decks are slightly crowned. A windlass requires a flat mounting surface. Using a high lubricity plastic (like Starboard or Teflon) as a spacer between the deck and windlass is not a good idea because virtually nothing sticks to it, and you don't want the windlass moving about.

Better is either a laminate of solid teak or Brynzeel (or Joubert) plywood. This can easily be shaped on the bottom to conform to the deck crown. Usually I install an even larger plywood backing plate underneath the deck, bonding and bolting the entire sandwich, which clamps the deck between riser block and backing plate. The plywood is coated everywhere with (WEST) epoxy (can be glassed, too), primed and painted to match; teak is usually either left bare or epoxied and varnished.

[cabo_sailor]

At least for the present I'm going to try the starboard. A local company is fabricating it using the windlass template.

I use a heavy duty chain stopper and a chain snubber that should minimize any shock loading.

The boat is large enough that there is no discernible crown on the foredeck.

Needless to say I'll keep a close eye on it. If it shows any signs of weakening I'll probably go with Ipe.

Thanks for so much input you each brought up many valid points. They are much appreciated.

Rich


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[The Way]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Most decks are slightly crowned. A windlass requires a flat mounting surface. Using a high lubricity plastic (like Starboard or Teflon) as a spacer between the deck and windlass is not a good idea because virtually nothing sticks to it, and you don't want the windlass moving about.

Er... butyl sticks to it. See post #28.

Jack

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Most decks are slightly crowned. A windlass requires a flat mounting surface. Using a high lubricity plastic (like Starboard or Teflon) as a spacer between the deck and windlass is not a good idea because virtually nothing sticks to it, and you don't want the windlass moving about.

It is the purpose of the thru-bolts to keep the windlass from moving about. One should never rely on a sealant or simple friction to keep something from moving about.

Mark

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by colemj

It is the purpose of the thru-bolts to keep the windlass from moving about. One should never rely on a sealant or simple friction to keep something from moving about.

Mark

Yup, and you cannot properly torque anything mounted on Starboard because it cold flows away from pressure. It has so little rigidity that it has to be stored flat because it will bend under its own weight. Great stuff for some things, but it isn't the right material for anything load bearing.

[cabo_sailor]

Ok I'm convinced. I'll use the starboard for a while in protected shallow water anchorages. In the meantime I'll look for some Ipe online. I think I've found a couple of good sources that won't require a loan. I'll uses the starboard to confirm the thickness I need for a fair lead to the chain stopper. The starboard should not be in place more than couple weeks.


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