Starboard for windlass base?

[Cheechako]

Well... as I mentioned earlier, the windlass should not have huge strain on it, or you are likely going to bend a shaft as maybe get a little movement. Windlasses have been bolted on top of Bowsprits for many years. Some of those bowsprits are soft Spruce. The bolts are very long to reach the deck and it's a much worse situation than mounting one on a piece of Starboard.
Teak is pretty slippery too, and many are mounted on that as well. Way overanalyzing this.
One camp seems to be saying Starboard cold deforms (which it can just like wood can) but at the same time saying it needs to match the crown of the deck. Well...If it deforms it will embed the windlass bottom into the top and crown itself to the deck!
I would definitely use Starboard before I used Plywood, (even glassed over and even Bruynzeel). Otherwise you are going to have rotten delaminating plywood unless you somehow seal it and the holes going thru it perfectly.
If you are really worried about the "slippery" factor drive some sheet metals screws into the Starboard and break them off, the sharp points will sit proud of the surface and be far less slippery than fiberglass layup or teak.

[Nicholson58]

You will not find anything to bond to starboard. You can calk with Butyl. As far as crush, if the base of the windlass has a large surface area to spread the load you might consider it. I would check into the higher density Starboard. Its nearly solid and much more structural.


Personally, I would lay up fab-mat & epoxy to the desired thickness.

[model 10]

It is so easy to put O rings on the mounting bolts with the plastic base. All you need to do is counter sink the holes and use an O ring. You don't even need sealant.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Yup, and you cannot properly torque anything mounted on Starboard because it cold flows away from pressure. It has so little rigidity that it has to be stored flat because it will bend under its own weight. Great stuff for some things, but it isn't the right material for anything load bearing.

This cold flowing keeps getting brought up, but in many of the real-world experiences described here for this specific application, it does not seem to be happening. The load bearing should be very low in this application. In our case, the loads are in tension bearing on the backing plates and deck - not the starboard fill. When pulling in the chain, the windlass is trying to lift off the deck. I don't buy the case that the 40lb windlass itself is effecting cold-flowing of the starboard just sitting on it.

Besides, there is no "torquing" of windlass bolts. Our windlass installation instructions are very clear about not over-tightening the bolts and give no torque values other than to say "tighten the nuts until just firm, but DO NOT use power tools or over-tighten in any way".

As for sealing, I don't see a problem with needing a perfect seal. First, we don't have any leaks around our mounting bolts and I just used common 4200 caulk to bed them. Second, any leaks go in to the chain locker - which is already seeing constant water ingress through the chain and hawsehole anyhow. The deck area is solid glass, and I assume anyone mounting one would have likewise or replace the coring with solid for any penetrations.

I think this application is being way over-thunked and theorized.

Mark

[Jim Cate]

I think this application is being way over-thunked and theorized.

How true! How CF...

Jim

[Schooner Chandlery]

Originally Posted by Dougtiff

Use the IPE if you have it, it will last for ever, it's not that hard on saw's, i use it alot, never rots.

Good advice. Use the IPE. We've used on on many exterior home projects and a couple of boat related projects. Lasts forever and is really strong. Our anchor windlass is sitting on top of 3/4" of purpleheart (not varnished, not finished, wasn't even painted for 4 years but I painted it last year. IPE is better the purpleheart for this purpose. Best of luck!