Temporary joining of two anchor chains. Best method?

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

I believe you want a Campbell connecting link, available in various sizes. A good temporary solution only.

We use the same same but different forged and rated , made in Japan , peerless / acco links on our 13mm grade L chain
Testing shows them to be stronger than our chain
As an added safety, we have a dyneema soft shackle as backup.
All goes through the chainwheel fine.

But, we haven't actually got to it yet as it's at the snubber point of our usual anchoring length.
Next year that 40m will go and we'll be into the unused 80m

In another two years after that, 40m will be cut out and a new 80m will be joined in.

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Any thoughts on the Dyneema loops I proposed in my initial post?

The double clevis links are the correct answer here. They are standard commercial hardware, surely available in europe. Edit: this is a UK distributor offering the crosby double clevis.

With a Dyneema connection - good if you are not at all worried about them being cut by something on the bottom - a lashing with cord sized to make the bend ratio's big is the best method. You can put the two chain ends in your gypsy and lash them to the correct length to run around the gypsy. The problem with this solution is cutting potential. I have seen enough sharp rusty refrigerators and coral and such to think cutting is a small but real risk.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Sounds simple, but all shackles I found which fit through the chain links have a considerable lower breaking strength than the chain, hence that is not the ideal solution.

Not if you get high strength shackles (you will need two, since the only the pin fits). How do you attach the anchor to the chain?

[ItDepends]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

I believe you want a Campbell connecting link, available in various sizes. A good temporary solution only.

In very large chain sizes, used on 150 foot+ yachts and all the way to the largest ships, you can not usually buy 100 meter lengths of chain. It just gets too heavy to be practically moved. Instead chain comes in “shots,” which are traditionally 90 foot (15 fathom) lengths. On every super yacht chain I have seen, Campbell type links are used to connect the shots.

I guess they can be called “temporary” because they have thinner galvanizing than the chain, so typically they need replacing before the chain does, but they are absolutely a permanent part of the anchoring system. They actually make very poor “temporary” connections because once assembled they have to be cut apart.

On really large chains, Kenter shackles are the usual solution, but I think the smallest these are available is 11mm, and only match strength with G2 or G3 chain.

[wrwakefield]

We use a forged double-clevis for connecting chain to chain, and rope to chain [so we don’t have to redo the rope to chain splice when we end-for-end the chain…]



They are stronger than our grade 43 chain, inexpensive, quick to install and remove, and pass through our windlass under load without event.

In case this will also work for your needs.

Cheers! Bill

[Franziska]

Thanks, double clevis or Campbell it is then.

I was actually aware of the Campbell ones, but was unsure on their reliability for the purpose.
Hence the question. Will get some in stainless.

It's a small chain 8mm so it won't be difficult...

Thanks again for the crowd know-how.

[Mike Banks]

My primary chain was longer than your two chains joined. I would buy more of the heavy chain and join it to make at least one hundred feet of your main bower tackle, and use the other chain as a stern anchor with a kellet to replace the extra missing chain, and using a nylon rode same diameter as I used on the bower anchor rode. In my case that was twenty millimetres in diameter. To join chains, I use a split link cut on a long diagonal, prise the ends apart, insert the chain links, and warm up the link and close it, but not hot enough to destroy the galvanising. When it is closed to the narrow cutting wheel or hacksaw blade diameter or a little less, using brazing rods or high strength sliver brazing, re-join the links, smooth off, and then warm the link and re-apply galvanising using any of the proprietary zinc-rich galvanising rods one can purchase such as Regalv.

To test such a join before entrusting your vessel to it, join some scrap chain and have the join strength tested at a lab. You will be astonished at how much load such a link can bear before the chain breaks.

If the brazing idea does not appeal, twist the links so as to form a slight V at the join, and weld the links using an arc welder and low hydrogen rods, then apply Regalv after the weld is cleaned and faired--but this will leave a thickened link on one side of the chain. It will be every bit as strong as the original chain, and will pass most gypsy and hawse fittings.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

We use a forged double-clevis for connecting chain to chain, and rope to chain [so we don’t have to redo the rope to chain splice when we end-for-end the chain…]



They are stronger than our grade 43 chain, inexpensive, quick to install and remove, and pass through our windlass under load without event.

In case this will also work for your needs.

Cheers! Bill

I have used to shackles but I agree this is the best choice and I am curious, why stainless?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

We use a forged double-clevis for connecting chain to chain, and rope to chain [so we don’t have to redo the rope to chain splice when we end-for-end the chain…]
Cheers! Bill

You SHOULD redo the rope-to-chain splice when you end-for-end the cain. There will be corrosion under the splice. You trim several links and several feet of rope at the same time.


Rope to chain splices really should be redone every 3-5 years, depending on use. It's really easy.

[Muaddib1116]

The twin clevis links at west marine are stamped g70. I'm assuming they are stronger than whatever G40 chain they fit in.

[SailingOblio]

I wouldn't trust those cotter pins.

[nofacey]

Another option is Rated SS Quick links. I had a vertical windlass the Crosby links would not go thru, but these beauties did. Took lots of blows too. I did change them out every couple years, as I did any SS component in the anchor line

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sea-d...3?recordNum=23

[Singleprop]

http://coxeng.co.uk/anchoring/c-links/

Test results of different connecting links

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by nofacey

Another option is Rated SS Quick links. I had a vertical windlass the Crosby links would not go thru, but these beauties did. Took lots of blows too. I did change them out every couple years, as I did any SS component in the anchor line

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sea-d...3?recordNum=23

Sends shivers down my spine looking at that piece of rubbish.

[Muaddib1116]

Originally Posted by SailingOblio

I wouldn't trust those cotter pins.

There are ways to deal with that. You could safety wire the pins instead of using cotter pins. You could use the cotter pins and then use self amalgamating tape wrapped around the links. You could probably tap the cotter pin holes and thread a long grub screw into it.



Some people seem to be ignoring that the OP is intending to use these for temporary situations.