Temporary joining of two anchor chains. Best method?

[s/v Jedi]

The double clevis links are the answer. In the US you can get them in G70 grade with strength matching my G70 chain. I spray them with cold galvanize.

The trick is that they keep chain link to link distance intact, allowing feeding through a vertical windlass gypsy.

Chain strength is not impacted when using these.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by SailingOblio

I wouldn't trust those cotter pins.

I'm kinda curious about this too. Is this because the cotter pins may break in cases of chafe against rocks or coral?

[SailingOblio]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nDIq9y3Xpeg

Side loading changes the numbers causing the problem.

[SailingOblio]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nDIq9y3Xpeg

Side loading changes the numbers causing the problem.

[Simi 60]

This write up including actual testing is what gave us confidence that a proper forged C link joiner (not cast crap S/S) was up for the task

C-links – Cox Engineering

On our vessel we use 13mm grade L chain with a WLL of 1770 kg
The Peerless/Acco C link joiner we use has a WLL of 2042 kg

As an extra, we have a soft shackle in there as well.

[SailingOblio]

If it has a bolt, yes. But if it's just a pin with a cotter pin... no.

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by SailingOblio

Side loading changes the numbers causing the problem.

You would not use a double clevis with cotter pins to connect a chain to an anchor shank. As that is an application where side loads can and do occur. You have an object (the anchor) with a long lever arm (the shank) that can and does occasionally get trapped and then side loaded (like that tang in the crosby vid) This is a difficult application that has broken many swivel products (with bolts) specifically designed for it.

For connecting two chain sections, side loading is extremely rare, and cotter pins are generally viewed as acceptable. Chain can possibly get 'trapped' but even when it does the likelihood of a side load specifically on the clevis link, specifically in the orientation bearing on the cotter pin, is vanishingly small. In fact one common solution to the swivel side load problem is to put a section of chain on both sides of the swivel.

If you prefer to replace the pins with (the correct) bolts with nuts sure go ahead.

[SailingOblio]

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

You would not use a double clevis with cotter pins to connect a chain to an anchor shank. As that is an application where side loads can and do occur. You have an object (the anchor) with a long lever arm (the shank) that can and does occasionally get trapped and then side loaded (like that tang in the crosby vid) This is a difficult application that has broken many swivel products (with bolts) specifically designed for it.

For connecting two chain sections, side loading is extremely rare, and cotter pins are generally viewed as acceptable. Chain can possibly get 'trapped' but even when it does the likelihood of a side load specifically on the clevis link, specifically in the orientation bearing on the cotter pin, is vanishingly small. In fact one common solution to the swivel side load problem is to put a section of chain on both sides of the swivel.

If you prefer to replace the pins with (the correct) bolts with nuts sure go ahead.

Exactly!

[Muaddib1116]

Originally Posted by SailingOblio

Exactly!

???


He was refuting your inappropriate evidence of prying on the clevis link.

[wsmurdoch]

Bolts are generally not good replacements for clevis pins. For instance a 1/4" clevis pin has a diameter of 1/4" and a cross sectional area of 0.049 square inches. A 1/4" bolt has a root diameter of 0.196" and a cross sectional area of 0.032 square inches. To keep the cross sectional area you would have to find a properly dimensioned shoulder bolt. Even then you would still have an untested modification.

[BelizeRumRunner]

Columbus McKinnon hammerlock. These are reusable chain couplers that have great strength, come in various chain sizes and will work with your windlass. I have several to connect 3/8 chain. You can get them on ebay.

[Muaddib1116]

I considered these, but I think you need a hammer, a punch, and probably some wooden blocks to disconnect these, and I figured the twin link clevis was strong enough and safe enough.

[Ozzlawrence]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Hi, we have currently two anchor chains, one with 25m and one with 15m.

So far we have just used a long rope rode with the 15m. The 25m is a new addition.

As we also carry two anchors we like to have maximum flexibility, including the option to join both chains to get a 40m when needed.

What would be the best/safest method to join the chains temporarily when used together.

Shakles with the same breaking load rarely pass through the chain links.
I'm considering splicing in some endless Dyneema loops at the ends and then join with a metal shackle between chains or to the anchor.
I do not trust soft shackles under water.
Good idea? Better ideas?

Anchor windlass is not an issue we'll get passed the splice by hand once the first chain is up.

Please do not suggest to buy another 40m chain in one piece. It's currently not an option.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Get a good length of chain to start with - say a minimum of 50 metres.

[s/v Jedi]

I slow down when it passes the gypsy; works every time and as strong as the chain. The G70 grade has a gold color coating so I spray cold galvanize (=zinc spray).

[JC Reefer]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Any thoughts on the Dyneema loops I proposed in my initial post?

I would not recommend Dyneema loops. Galvanized chain will chew through that.