Thoughts on Stainless Steel Anchor Chain?

[Alan Mighty]

Originally Posted by groundtackle

Hmm is anybody going to discuss WLL of stainless vs galvanized chain and also issues with crevice corrosion and sudden failure of stainless steel vs galvanized steel?
I wouldn’t want stainless chain if it was offered free.
Nick

Exactly!

Or should I say: the only people I know who safely use stainless steel anchor chain do so:
* with a completely stainless steel ground tackle system (not a mix of ss and galvanized steel);
* with tested, calibrated, and electropolished 318LN stainless steel anchor chain:
- that is either replaced at the end of its warranty, or
- returned to the factory for re-testing and re-polishing before the end of the warranty period.

[Tomodore]

Boat anchored with SS chain here in Mexico, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle a couple years back had the chain part from crevice corrosion in calm conditionsFortunately they were on board and did not end up on the beach. SS chain is unusual on a cruising boat for good reason. Quality galvanized chain rusts after awhile and needs regalvanizing or replacement, but as it ages you can monitor the condition without any surprises. Ask a rigger about using a 7 or 10 x magnifier to check SS fittings looking for crevice corrosion and then think about doing it for 300` of chain. If the manufacturer guaranteed the chain how about the cost of your boat and perhaps crew. Consider checking out Practical Sailor about their opinion on SS in salt water.

[Muaddib1116]

As a couple of people have said, 318LN chain from Ketten Walder is pretty much the only stainless anchor chain recommended for warm water long term use. And that is the chain that is priced up in the $9000 range.

I have heard arguments that for cruising in colder environments, Northern Europe, Northeast US/Canada, PNW that 316L chain will do fine. The temperature of the water has a drastic effect on corrosion.

would try out the traffic cone idea first.

[Simi 60]

I was going to say Cromox is supposedly the one to use
Others mentioned it indirectly but not the brand name

https://www.bridco.com.au/cromox-loa...omponents.html

[Muaddib1116]

The tricky thing about the Ketten Walder's Cromox product line is that it includes 316L and 318LN chain. Ketten Walder's website has their catalog which shows the product codes for all their various chain sizes and steel types.

[boatpoker]

Spurling pipe with a little curve in it has worked for me.

[Alan Mighty]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

I was going to say Cromox is supposedly the one to use
Others mentioned it indirectly but not the brand name

https://www.bridco.com.au/cromox-loa...omponents.html

Superb, Simi 60! Thanks for that.

Beaut stuff.

Thanks for the link to the Bridge Co cattle dog.

Very tempted to go for a spin to Burleigh Heads to ogle the pretties.

The quick connect shackle, or one of the shortners, look very suitable as luxury grave goods.

Drat! Just realised that both Christmases have slipped by, as well as the Feast of the Holy Circumcision.

I doubt that Santa would deliver a pretty for Aussie Invasion Day or Chinese New Year. Sad.

[Adelie]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Worthless trivia correction: it is a spurling pipe, not a spruling pipe.

Jim

Oops got me.

[Telemark43]

Originally Posted by Adelie

I would look for industrial SS A316. Buy a foot and see if it will work with your windlass. I was looking for 3/16 since nobody makes 3/16 hot dipped.

I found Tulsa Chain. Haven’t bought any yet so have no recommendation.

Worthless trivia: it’s the spruling pipe that goes into the chain locker, hawse pipe goes from deck overboard.

Can you trim the bottom of the pipe so it is higher?

sp Spurling

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Departing2017

I love worthless nautical trivia. Worthless trivia of any kind is pretty much the only thing I can consistently remember. Thanks!

The other problem I didn't mention is that even if the spruling pipe doesn't get fouled, that nice cone-shaped pile of chain will ultimately fall over and create a tangle that will not feed next time we drop anchor, so I don't think trimming the pipe will help.

I like the pipe/stick in the hole strategy and would worry more about spending a LOT of money if you don't KNOW it will solve the problem.

Logically, it might. If you get feedback that it doesn't as you have here, I would ask for more information.

One thing that is not addressed is how you use your boat. SS will rust if immersed in salt water for long periods, so for a full time cruiser like myself who spends a few days to a few weeks at each anchorage and rarely ties up to a dock, it wouldn't work for me. But for anchoring short term it's fine (and pretty, and easy to clean mud off of).

When I upgraded my chain from 300' to 500' I started to experience castling that hung up the windlass. Not every time, but often enough that I now leave the anchor locker hatch open while raising anchor. Pushing the top of the castle over is only needed once, and the chain doesn't usually get hung up when dropping anchor the next time. When it does I'm on the bow and can easily pull the chain free and continue.

[MJH]

Originally Posted by Departing2017

Ok, so once you've stopped laughing and rolling your eyes at my vanity and extravagance (probably justified, if you ask the Admiral), I have a couple of serious questions.

I have been exploring the option of upgrading to stainless anchor chain, and here's why. We do not have access to our chain locker from the deck, and our current chain (3/8" galvanized G4) makes a nice cone-shaped pile in the locker that fouls the hawse pipe long before we have the anchor up. This necessitates placing a crew member below in the V-berth to reach through a small opening in the bulkhead and manually stack the chain. Problem is, we're usually short handed and don't have a crew member to spare.

My understanding is that stainless chain being a bit more slippery won't pile itself into a cone. So first questions: Is this true? And do you think SS chain would solve my problem as described?

Next question. As I'm researching online, I'm running into huge variation on the price of SS chain. Around $2,700 for 300 feet on the low end up to almost $9,000. Nine grand is a non-starter, but the bottom end of the range might be worth it. I'm guessing the price difference boils down to Made in China versus Made in Not China. The sources for the lower priced chain at least appear to be fairly reputable marine retailers. How much do I worry about quality control on SS chain if it is made in China?

Thanks for sharing any thoughts.

In spending big buck$ for stainless steel anchor chain remember: "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link."

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

[Adelie]

Originally Posted by Telemark43

sp Spurling

Jim Cate beat you to it in post #8 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3321112

And I acknowledged it 12hr ago.

[moseriw]

in fact the quality of the chain should be essential and stainless is not a meterial i would choose for an anchor chain as the most flexibility and break force will be some special sort of galvanized steel.

There is enough information abut the right technical description of the best steel chain out there.

[endlesspursuit]

Originally Posted by HopCar

I don’t know about how it piles in the chain locker, but when I switched to stainless chain I was pleasantly surprised at how little mud stuck to it.

I’ve seen various pyramid shaped things put into the chain locker to keep the chain from piling up. As the incoming chain hits the top of the pyramid it is forced to fall to one of the sides preventing it from piling up in the center of the locker.

Don’t worry, nobody will notice the stainless chain. Now on the other hand a stainless anchor will get you laughed off the dock.

Damm, My boat came with about a $500.00 stainless steel anchor. Should I throw it away and buy a $250.00 galvanized anchor so I look cool at the dock? haha

[Mickeyrouse]

I’d have to wonder the real advantage of the spruling pipe on a yacht. Large ships, for sure, but we don’t have one and I can say I don’t want one. It limits the mound of chain as it falls into the anchor locker, necessitating a crew member to clear it as the chain comes aboard. That can sometimes be a problem even without, but the reduced distance in the anchor locker seems to guarantee the problem.