Toss's Three Strand, Single-Link Chain Splice

[Arclight]

I'm considering using this splice as described in Brion Toss's "Knots for Boaters" as it eliminates bulk at the chain/rope junction. Comments? TIA

[Weyalan]

I asked a similar question relatively recently, here, although I was asking for feedback on the relative merits of what you call Toss's chain splice (I call it an "extended splice" i.e. splicing the strands of the rop einto the links of the chain) versus the "tapered back splice" (where the strands of the rope go through the last link in the chain and are then spliced back into the rope, tapering as you go.

The relevant thread is here: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ain-40591.html

What I gleaned from that theread is that either splice will work effectively, neither is a sufficiently clear winner to be an obvious choice, some people prefer one, some people prefer the other.

In the end I chose the tapered backsplice (aside from the lack of consensus from the thread, it was what was recommended by the windlass manufacturer). I did the splice myself, but even so it looks neat and tidy. It seems to run through the windlass fine without any problem. I'm pretty sure that the extended splice would have worked too, so go with whatever you feel comfortable with.

Tapered back splice:

[lancelot9898]

Originally Posted by Weyalan

In the end I chose the tapered backsplice (aside from the lack of consensus from the thread, it was what was recommended by the windlass manufacturer). I did the splice myself, but even so it looks neat and tidy. It seems to run through the windlass fine without any problem. I'm pretty sure that the extended splice would have worked too, so go with whatever you feel comfortable with.

Tapered back splice:

I did something slightly different than the two established splices. I used an eye splice rather than the back splice since I reasoned that keeping the strands in tack when passing through the chain length provides a stronger attachment point as opposed to running the 3 strands seperately through that length. FWIW

[colemj]

The Toss splice the OP asked about is different than the extended splice through several links of chain. It is a modified backsplice through the last link of the chain in which the taper is longer and built into the splice from the beginning by the way the strands are handled. I haven't used it (I plan to), but think that it will go through a rope/chain gypsy better than a backsplice.

Mark

[Arclight]

Thank you, I considered using a tapered chain to rope splice (a good example is shown below), however in the splice that Toss recommends the rope is unlayed for about two feet. The first and second ends are passed through the last link of chain from opposite sides. With the first end, a counter clockwise loop is made behind the standing part and drawn up snug. The second end is drawn up snug beside the first. The third strand, the one that did not go through the link, is unlayed from the rope and the second strand is layed into the space that it vacates until about six inches of end is remaining. Those two ends are then knotted left over right and each tucked over under against the lay for four tucks each. The first end is then tucked over under against the lay four or five times. Finally, a double constrictor is used to hold the rope snug against the last link to minimize chafe. As my windless gypsy calls for 5/16 ACCO G4 chain and 5/8 three strand nylon rope and the since working load limit of premium rope is far higher than that of the chain, the strength of the union should not be a problem and the splice itself should feed through the windless far more easily than a typical tapered chain to rope splice. Unless I hear negative comments from someone who has actually used this splice, I plan to make up my new ground tackle with it and will advise the forum as to how it performs.

[Arclight]

Tapered rope to chain splice:

YouTube - Rope To Chain Splice

[knothead]

One problem that I have noticed over the years with the rope chain splice is that they have a tendency to create a lot of rust on the link of chain that the line is spliced to. Because the rode just sits in a damp locker without ever drying completely or being rinsed, off the corrosion can happen pretty quickly.
What I've suggested and have done a couple of times is to soak the strands where they contact the steel with melted bees wax after completing the splice.
I don't know whether that will completely solve the problem, but I figured that it had to help.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by knothead

One problem that I have noticed over the years with the rope chain splice is that they have a tendency to create a lot of rust on the link of chain that the line is spliced to. Because the rode just sits in a damp locker without ever drying completely or being rinsed, off the corrosion can happen pretty quickly.
What I've suggested and have done a couple of times is to soak the strands where they contact the steel with melted bees wax after completing the splice.
I don't know whether that will completely solve the problem, but I figured that it had to help.

Thanks -- I think I like that idea. The bees wax would also lubricate and reduce internal chafe.

Other people wrap the portion of link beneath the splice with electrical tape, and say that helps.

Regardless of what you do it's probably a good idea to cut off the chain and re-do the splice once in a while. I'd cut off that last link too, if it was showing rust... Not a great idea to splice to a rusty link.

[knothead]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

Thanks -- I think I like that idea. The bees wax would also lubricate and reduce internal chafe.

Other people wrap the portion of link beneath the splice with electrical tape, and say that helps.

Regardless of what you do it's probably a good idea to cut off the chain and re-do the splice once in a while. I'd cut off that last link too, if it was showing rust... Not a great idea to splice to a rusty link.

Here's a good example of what I was talking about. The rusty splice wasn't more than about three years old.
The bottom splice is bees waxed.

About chafe. There shouldn't be any internal chafe. Notice the seizing. I use that to make sure that it's tight enough to insure that there is no movement of the first link in the line. That's very important.

[Arclight]

thx...like the bee's wax idea

[Arclight]

A correction of my post of 24-09-1010, the second sentence should read: The first and second ends are passed through the last link of chain from same side.

[Funsail29]

We used the chain to rope splice with bees wax as knothead suggests, worked great and runs though the windlass just fine. We also used the bees wax on a slightly heated propeller, just enough to melt the wax on. Stuff would still grown but came off with a brush of a gloved hand.