Videos of Anchors Setting

[eheffa]

Originally Posted by malbert73

Sure if money is not an issue you can buy stainless. What ultra promises (shuffling around rather than breaking out) is very well proven in Mantus in Noelex’s thread. Spade also does it, as does rocna, Manson, etc.

So chances are a Mantus, spade, ultra, or excel will all give excellent performance. Now it’s up to you to decide what you like best.

Stainless Steel would shed the mud much more easily and wouldn't rust. I'm tempted to swap my rusting SPADE 120 for a SS version but I'm not sure that that would be wise...

Some authorities like John Harries at Attainable Adventure Cruising deplore the use of Stainless Steel due to the risk of failure due to crevice corrosion (almost invisible).

Does anyone know how likely this sort of failure would be, anchoring 60-120 days a year?

-evan

[Panope]

Originally Posted by eheffa

Thanks Steve,

That is reassuring.

I would like to keep my SPADE if I could find a way to re-galvanize it; but it's good to know that the Excel would be a decent replacement.

-evan

If your local galvanizer will do the job with the lead removed--

Removing the lead from the Spade can be done with an oxy-acetylene torch. After positioning the anchor such that the lead will flow out of the fluke, aim the flame directly onto the lead. Catch the lead in a steel pan as it pours out.

Steve

[eheffa]

Originally Posted by Panope

If your local galvanizer will do the job with the lead removed--

Removing the lead from the Spade can be done with an oxy-acetylene torch. After positioning the anchor such that the lead will flow out of the fluke, aim the flame directly onto the lead. Catch the lead in a steel pan as it pours out.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

This would probably be the best option if I can get the galvanizers to accept the anchor without the lead in it. (I understand it costs $1.50 / lb to do the job so pretty cheap.)

I do have access to a torch so could see this as a viable solution.

- evan

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by eheffa

Thanks Steve,

This would probably be the best option if I can get the galvanizers to accept the anchor without the lead in it. (I understand it costs $1.50 / lb to do the job so pretty cheap.)

I do have access to a torch so could see this as a viable solution.

- evan

Do remember to figure out a means of returning the lead into the anchor after it's return.

Jim

[eheffa]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Do remember to figure out a means of returning the lead into the anchor after it's return.

Jim

Yes. That’s a good point.

I assumed that one could just re-melt the lead & pour it back into the same chamber in the anchor toe that it came from.

Are there any issues around doing that?

Does the newly galvanized anchor need any extra preparation to accept the molten lead?

- evan

[Training Wheels]

Panope, I’m disappointed that you decided to keep the aluminum Excel, I was going to ask for first dibs on it!

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Training Wheels

Panope, I’m disappointed that you decided to keep the aluminum Excel, I was going to ask for first dibs on it!

It would take some serious effort to pry that one away from me.

-Full size anchor able to generate tremendous holding power.
-Strong, non pivoting construction.
-Shank demounts quickly with only 2 bolts.
-Very light weight.

The perfect spare anchor - for me.

[Training Wheels]

Yes, but it would be the perfect bower for my lightweight 44’ trimaran! While I love my aluminum spade, I’m intrigued by the Excel. It would see much better service on our boat!

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by eheffa

Yes. That’s a good point.

I assumed that one could just re-melt the lead & pour it back into the same chamber in the anchor toe that it came from.

Are there any issues around doing that?

Does the newly galvanized anchor need any extra preparation to accept the molten lead?

- evan

First, the cavity must be really dry before you pour hot lead back into it, REALLY dry! If not, steam is formed and it can and is likely to blow the lead right back out atcha! Bad scene!

So, the other thing is how big is the hole through which you must introduce the molten lead? You may need some sort of funnel (obviously, a metal one!).

It obviously can be done, 'cause the folks at Spade do it, but then they likely have proper protective gear and have practiced a few times!

Good luck with it, and please report back when you get out of the burn ward (only joking).

Jim

[SaltyMetals]

the debate about lead in the tip of an anchor (Steve/eheffa/Jim) means that this type of anchor raises issues to be able to re-galv after 10-15 years. Nearly all galvanisers have a proportion of lead in their bath, most of it making a layer of its own at the bottom. At the same time some if it goes into solution in the molten Zn. Hence it would not matter if some of the lead in the anchor were to melt out into the Zn while galvanising. The risk of explosions within cavities is a real one which is why you will see the bleed holes in steel structures that have been galvanised. The steel fabricators know this and will eliminate closed cavities in their design.

I have an idea to re-galv an anchor like the Spade. if it is hung on the dipping frame so that the hole where the molted lead might pour out such that this hole is facing upwards then the molten lead will remain in the cavity.

If you empty the lead from the cavity beforehand you may find that much of the space in the cavity will have been taken up by zinc unless the anchor is held up the other way so that any molten zinc will pour out when it is lifted out of the bath while the anchor will still be hot enough for molten Zn to run off when it is held about the bath for a few moments after galvanising.

I wonder what procedure Spade themselves recommend.
Andrew

[wsmurdoch]

Similar to Steve's suggestion in Post 422....

"Just had my spade regalvanised. Not much of a problem. The best way to get the lead out is stand the fluke on end and play an oxypropane torch on the lead surface. It runs out pretty easily without damaging the steel. All the necessary air holes are already in the fluke and shank (inside the shackle hole) so regalvanising is not a problem. You just need to make sure you fully clean off all the remnants of the yellow paint which was on the fluke."

That is from https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?thr...nising.512190/ . KAM did not have a serious problem having his Spade anchor regalvanized, so it is doable.

Bill

[Panope]

Bill,

I have never seen the discussion that you linked.

My words in post #422 are my own.

Steve

[wsmurdoch]

I'm sorry. I did not intend to imply that your remarks were a copy although that is exactly what my note implies. I have edited my initial sentence.

Bill

[Panope]

Cheers

[eheffa]

I found the solution to my Rusting SPADE anchor dilemma.

A Sarca Excel!

Thank you Steve for all your excellent research allowing me to make this switch with confidence.

I had a chance to test the Excel yesterday in four different anchorages that present very challenging seabeds / weeds. The Excel was flawless.



I can now take my time re-galvanizing the SPADE prior to selling it.

The SPADE is an excellent anchor but the Excel fits my bow roller better and with the Excel giving at least equivalent performance, the Excel will stay I think.

-evan