Videos of Anchors Setting

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by fxykty

I guess it matters if you anchor your dinghy deep. I’ve got the mark 1 Mantus dinghy anchor without a roll bar and we generally just chuck it out (with 5m of small chain) and if it doesn’t grip we pull it back up and chuck it again. Usually we’re not very deep and check it visually (and set it if necessary) before heading away.

It’s a dinghy anchor - not mission critical. If you’re using a larger dinghy (boat at that point) and deeper water just get a heavier anchor.

Right. And you could do same thing with main boat anchor without rollbar but then it would be vulnerable for resetting. I have the new mantus dinghy anchor with rollbar and it works great but usually it’s got my bow off the beach and I have a shoreline from stern. So won’t need to reset. So in theory I could use without rollbar

[Panope]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HngP1Z0LYoo

[Sos]

Once again thanks for a great video and all your hard work.

In those marginal conditions it looks like extra weight helps
the modern anchors set better.

[double u]

A M A Z I N G !!!
thank you!

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Sos

Once again thanks for a great video and all your hard work.

In those marginal conditions it looks like extra weight helps
the modern anchors set better.

I think there are 2 effects there. More weight means more pressure on the substrate, giving a better shot at penetrating a crappy bottom. More weight also means bigger (within a given anchor design), which means debris on the bottom (weeds, rocks, etc.) is smaller relative to the anchor and therefore less significant to its performance.

[Muaddib1116]

Thanks Steve for another great video with really important new information! This video (and the previous loose mud video) really highlights that there are other performance considerations than just set/reset speed. Given how valuable I've found these videos, I've signed up for your Patreon, and I strongly encourage others to do so as well. The work you're doing and sharing is such an incredible resource for the community.

In your bench top review of the new 45lb Mantus, you mentioned that Mantus had donated that to you for testing. I think that's a great testament to that company and how much they believe in their product. At this point, it's surprising that every other manufacturer is not following suit. Mantus has on their website that the M2 will resume sale at the end of October. Have they indicated that they would send you one of those to test as well? There is so little information out there about the M2 anchor.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Muaddib1116

Thanks Steve for another great video with really important new information! This video (and the previous loose mud video) really highlights that there are other performance considerations than just set/reset speed. Given how valuable I've found these videos, I've signed up for your Patreon, and I strongly encourage others to do so as well. The work you're doing and sharing is such an incredible resource for the community.

In your bench top review of the new 45lb Mantus, you mentioned that Mantus had donated that to you for testing. I think that's a great testament to that company and how much they believe in their product. At this point, it's surprising that every other manufacturer is not following suit. Mantus has on their website that the M2 will resume sale at the end of October. Have they indicated that they would send you one of those to test as well? There is so little information out there about the M2 anchor.

I have not heard directly from Mantus about the M2, but second hand news says that an M2 submission is in the works.

Yep, nothing says "I believe in my product" better than submitting for testing.

Others that have done so are:

Spade (a loaner that was later offered to me at half price - which I paid).

Anchor Right (Excel, Super Sarca)

Mantus

Ultra

Viking

All other anchors were bought, borrowed, or scrounged by me.


Thank you so much for the Patreon hit!

Steve

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

I think there are 2 effects there. More weight means more pressure on the substrate, giving a better shot at penetrating a crappy bottom. More weight also means bigger (within a given anchor design), which means debris on the bottom (weeds, rocks, etc.) is smaller relative to the anchor and therefore less significant to its performance.

Perhaps, except that what we can see in gravel/rocks like that you are relying more on the weight of the rocks on the anchor, and just in front of it, to hold it rather than the diving of the anchor into a substrate. A larger heavier anchor will load up with more rocks but then you are pulling on it with a much bigger, heavier boat too.
I think the take-away is to avoid that kind of bottom like the plague if you can.

[Souzag818]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Perhaps, except that what we can see in gravel/rocks like that you are relying more on the weight of the rocks on the anchor, and just in front of it, to hold it rather than the diving of the anchor into a substrate. A larger heavier anchor will load up with more rocks but then you are pulling on it with a much bigger, heavier boat too.
I think the take-away is to avoid that kind of bottom like the plague if you can.

Funny I thought the same thing. I know exactly where Steve was doing these tests, and made a mental note to avoid it. Aside from the shallow channel you need to weave through just to get there, once you've made it through the channel, Kilisut Harbor is a beautiful anchorage without stressing out about whether I'm going to hold in the rocks or not. Everywhere I've anchored there has been good old sticky mud.

[eheffa]

Thanks Steve for all your hard work on this test.

Here on the West Coast one does not have the luxury of diving on the anchor to view the bottom.

We have many times dropped the hook in lovely little remote coves & nooks to find that the bottom is rocky & difficult to get a convincing set.

My take home message from this video:
1. It makes sense to choose and use a (large) type of anchor that performs better in these less than optimal sea-beds.
2. Make sure to really test your set before you sleep on it. Even the best sets in this series look a little tenuous. ( My usual practice is to look around the anchorage & ask myself where I don’t want to go & then test to see if the set will keep me from going there... sometimes that might even be in 3 different directions. This video reinforces my need to do that. )

Thanks Steve. Great work!

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by eheffa

Thanks Steve for all your hard work on this test.

Here on the West Coast one does not have the luxury of diving on the anchor to view the bottom.

We have many times dropped the hook in lovely little remote coves & nooks to find that the bottom is rocky & difficult to get a convincing set.

My take home message from this video:
1. It makes sense to choose and use a (large) type of anchor that performs better in these less than optimal sea-beds.
2. Make sure to really test your set before you sleep on it. Even the best sets in this series look a little tenuous. ( My usual practice is to look around the anchorage & ask myself where I don’t want to go & then test to see if the set will keep me from going there... sometimes that might even be in 3 different directions. This video reinforces my need to do that. )

Thanks Steve. Great work!

And maybe #3, when you don't know the bottom use an old-fashioned lead line with a dollop of butter or cream cheese in it. If it doesn't come back sandy or muddy, maybe go find a different spot?

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Don C L

And maybe #3, when you don't know the bottom use an old-fashioned lead line with a dollop of butter or cream cheese in it. If it doesn't come back sandy or muddy, maybe go find a different spot?

Don,

In some circumstances, the presence of mud may be of little benefit.

I have now finished testing most of the anchors at the new "soft mud" seabed. Several anchors held even less than they held in the Cobblestone!

Steve

[Panope]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcewcSyNMAU

[Panope]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zflUjfkEIKg&t=27s

[eheffa]

Great work Steve!

Drilling the Rocna & re-testing would make so much sense. I considered drilling holes in our 25Kg Rocna after your first set of Rocna & Manson testing but chose to sell it and got the SPADE instead.

If drilling fixes the Rocna fouling, it would be a simple, cheap fix for many Rocna owners. Maybe Rocna could let you test 2 new ones: one with & one without the holes.

- evan