Windlass Power Options

[bhecla]

I have a unique situation with my boat. Previous owner built a windlass using a very large gypsy head for chain and rode, via a 2500:1 gear reduction. This is run off of a belt drive from a 90V DC motor. The DC motor power source is a death trap, its 120AC from my Magnum Inverter, through a bridge rectifier, to convert to way too much DC, then to the motor . I have already removed all the power wires and have decided on re powering. My question is what do you guys think I should do? I see two options at the moment... 1. Run a 12v DC motor. This would require 40+ feet of very large power cables to be installed at fairly high cost plus the pricey motor. 2. Hydraulic power unit with Hydraulic motor. This is more complicated but would not require long electrical runs as I already have 12v wires or proper gauge near location. Any one have ideas? Opinions? Thanks!

[donradcliffe]

I'm really surprised about the lack of rust on that non-marinized contraption. The boat must have never left the dock. I think I'd rip it all out and replace it with a 12v marine windlass.

[Cowboy Sailer]

Actually, using a large inverter to supply 110 VAC is a good idea. One can buy a scr controller to manage the power from the bridge rectifier for less than $100.

[bhecla]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

I'm really surprised about the lack of rust on that non-marinized contraption. The boat must have never left the dock. I think I'd rip it all out and replace it with a 12v marine windlass.

She leaves the dock quite often. The actual windlass portion of the setup is quite nice and has more pulling capacity than I could ever use. Its off of an old coast guard vessel. Its how to power the unit that is my issue right now.

[bhecla]

Originally Posted by Cowboy Sailer

Actually, using a large inverter to supply 110 VAC is a good idea. One can buy a scr controller to manage the power from the bridge rectifier for less than $100.

Your the first person to be ok with the idea of 90V dc up there. I like the idea of a little SCR controller. I have looked at other ac to dc motor controllers too. I guess I'm concerned about two things. 1. That is a lot of DC power to have in a salt water environment. 2. I am relying on the inverter to work to use my windlass.

[Sailmonkey]

I'd be inclined to use a normal 12v motor and a battery in the bow. Charge the windlass battery from the house bank with an echo charger.


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[bhecla]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I'd be inclined to use a normal 12v motor and a battery in the bow. Charge the windlass battery from the house bank with an echo charger.

That is a darn good Idea, would save about 400 bucks in 1/0 cable from house banks at rear of boat.

[a64pilot]

Why not a 110V AC motor since you have an inverter already?

[Lepke]

I don't understand the fear of 90 volts dc. Most WWII ships down to tugs had 250 volt dc running all sorts of equipment. 12 volt dc on large boats is a pain. Big cables, etc. This boat uses a 240v ac windlass motor via either generators or my inverter. Small control lines that allow me to run from the deck or the pilothouse. Replacement motor is cheap, etc.
What happened to if it ain't broke, don't fix it?
Lepke

[colemj]

Is that windlass really just bolted onto a locker lid with a hinge the only thing holding it to the deck?

Mark

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Lepke

I don't understand the fear of 90 volts dc. Most WWII ships down to tugs had 250 volt dc running all sorts of equipment. 12 volt dc on large boats is a pain. Big cables, etc. This boat uses a 240v ac windlass motor via either generators or my inverter. Small control lines that allow me to run from the deck or the pilothouse. Replacement motor is cheap, etc.
What happened to if it ain't broke, don't fix it?
Lepke

Anything over 30V (AC or DC) is generally considered potentially hazardous. Properly installed and in good condition not a problem, but I would be suspect of that conglomeration.

[bhecla]

Originally Posted by colemj

Is that windlass really just bolted onto a locker lid with a hinge the only thing holding it to the deck?

Mark

The lid is not hinged, there are multiple large bolts holding it in place around the perimeter. It was given a stainless lip by the previous owner to secure it through the deck when it was converted from a locker. Its a one off boat so its hard to know whats right and wrong most of the time. I have a pretty good understanding of the stresses involved with something like this and its pretty well built for strength but it is a pain to work on. the boat has no coring and its almost an inch thick solid fiberglass at the bolt locations.

[belizesailor]

So if the chain jams or needs flaking, you have to unbolted the lid?

[bhecla]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

So if the chain jams or needs flaking, you have to unbolted the lid?

There is a good access to the chain locker itself from bellow, if the chain jammed somehow midway then yes, bolts would need to be removed but you would have a tight chain to deal with, wither way. There is a direct drop to the lower locker from the the feed tube above for the chain. Not saying its perfect but it works pretty well.
Up to this point the only issues have been power. Having 90v DC is fine if done properly, but the power supply and control to run it add more complexity since I dont have 90v DC battery banks. I am going around and around right now between an AC motor which is pretty easy to install in place of existing DC setup, or going 12v. I am looking at some pretty major wire runs if I go the 12v route. I really would like to avoid the weight of a batt up front since I have 300' of chain already. Spare parts are also a concern. I intend to cruise eventually and its nice to be able to easily swap out a motor if needed. Having 90V dc may limit spare parts down the road.... or it may not.
Having a one off boat is cool most of the time, but at the same time it can be a real pain. You guys have been pretty helpful in going over options though. Still don't know which route I'll go but getting closer to a decision at the very least.

[RaymondR]

It's belt drive and looks like the motor is bolted to the fibreglass hatch and consequently the 90V is isolated from the windlass. If so I can't see that it's really that hazardous.