Windlass stopped running

[WanderIVth]

I wasn't entirely sure where to put this one.

My windlass stopped working. The windlass is direct wired to the hubs on the starboard side batteries; it doesn't go through the breaker system. At the hubs, I have 12 volts. At the terminals on the solenoid, I have substantially less. The wire is 8 awg running from hubs to solenoid. Is there something I should try before swapping out the wire?

Thanks,
Wander

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by WanderIVth

I wasn't entirely sure where to put this one.

My windlass stopped working. The windlass is direct wired to the hubs on the starboard side batteries; it doesn't go through the breaker system. At the hubs, I have 12 volts. At the terminals on the solenoid, I have substantially less. The wire is 8 awg running from hubs to solenoid. Is there something I should try before swapping out the wire?

Thanks,
Wander

What do the wires run through? Switch? Without knowing the wiring all that could be surmised is a voltage drop somewhere. What are you calling substantially less?

[DeValency]

Unclear what’s “substantially lower” voltage.
Anything below 10V will probably not move the motor. As for the reason for a too low voltage, it can be poor connections (look for rust, loose nuts, terminals etc.), if the original wiring was 8AWG and it worked well, the wires should probably the last part to replace.

The best way to start if you cannot visually see an issue, is bypassing with a battery jumper from the battery cables to the motor - make sure you know the correct polarity in advance and remove the chain from the windlass.

[WanderIVth]

Originally Posted by DeValency

Unclear what’s “substantially lower” voltage.
Anything below 10V will probably not move the motor. As for the reason for a too low voltage, it can be poor connections (look for rust, loose nuts, terminals etc.), if the original wiring was 8AWG and it worked well, the wires should probably the last part to replace.

The best way to start if you cannot visually see an issue, is bypassing with a battery jumper from the battery cables to the motor - make sure you know the correct polarity in advance and remove the chain from the windlass.

Substantially lower like 2 volts.

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by WanderIVth

Substantially lower like 2 volts.

Do the wires go through a control switch before reaching the solenoid?

[WanderIVth]

Originally Posted by S/V Adeline

Do the wires go through a control switch before reaching the solenoid?

Yes. Of sorts. The photo is where the battery connects to those wires. If I put my voltimeter on those, it gives me 12. On the opposite side of that, I can pull a plunger kill the power coming out of it.

https://imgur.com/EAjT18a

[S/V Adeline]

If you have 12v on both sides of the plunger switch, but don't have 12v at the solenoid, I would say there is a partial break/resistance in the lines between the plunger and the solenoid. How long are these lines? Would it be practical to lay a set of new wires across the deck to see if that restores operation?

[WanderIVth]

Originally Posted by S/V Adeline

If you have 12v on both sides of the plunger switch, but don't have 12v at the solenoid, I would say there is a partial break/resistance in the lines between the plunger and the solenoid. How long are these lines? Would it be practical to lay a set of new wires across the deck to see if that restores operation?

I could certainly try that. That's a really good idea. Thanks.

[Northbound44]

Your electric connections doesn’t look bad. Haven’t you tried to disassemble your windlass to see if the bearings or shaft bushing are seized? If it’s not the case and the motor with no load doesn’t turn, chance are your windlass motor is the problem. Another possibility would be the solenoid valve. Try to see the voltage drop by taking a reading with a voltmeter between the two positive solenoid plow (in and out). If you see a major reeding, the solenoid contacts is the issue and it need Try bypassing the solenoid and if it works, bingo!
If not and if everything else is good, the motor is the problem.

[WanderIVth]

Sorry, been saying 8 awg. It's 4 awg running. I have enough 8 sitting around to test it, certainly not a bunch of 4.

[WanderIVth]

For anyone interested in how this resolved, turned out the windlass wiring went the opposite way I thought it did. It made a u-turn just out of sight and went to the port hull instead of the starboard. There I found a breaker specifically for the windlass that was in the off position.

I took a LOT of things apart to find that.