Windlass will only turn in one direction. Jammed? Video attached

[newbie-]

My boat came with a windlass and I've never used one before. I had to replace the switches and then it seemed ok.. but now it won't turn to drop the anchor. Looks like it tries but jams.

I've stopped using it. Not sure what to do now. Any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/jtY3o6GaQ3A

[Sailmonkey]

Ummmm. You need to lift the pawl to allow the wildcat to turn the other direction

[newbie-]

Omg.. that's embarrassing. That was it.

Did I mention I've never had a windlass before?

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Ummmm. You need to lift the pawl to allow the wildcat to turn the other direction

Good job!!

[Nicholson58]

Cruisers helping cruisers.

[boatman61]

Don't rely on your windlass to hold you when anchored, use a chain stopper..
Just in case you were not aware.

[Good]

looks in working ordr to me..

[CarinaPDX]

Boatie is right, if you have a chain stopper. If you don't then tie a snubber line onto the chain and secure it to a stout cleat. But never anchor the night relying on the windlass to hold the chain. It might not hold, or even more fun it might rip the windlass out of the deck (seen it happen a couple of times). Also, power the boat ahead while retrieving the anchor instead of using the windlass to pull the boat up to the anchor - it isn't designed for that much work (you can use it to reduce the catenary and then allow the boat to coast forward, then remove the new catenary, etc, until up to the anchor). Take good care of it and it will be your new best friend.

Greg

[j.g.evans]

i helped a friend with the same problem. His windlass has a one direction needle bearing on the motor before the gear box. I don't know how they work, but, McMaster Carr has them. He replaced this bearing with a normal needle bearing and he got up and down operation. Later he found there is a mechanical release in the windlass allowing the down operation. His was frozen so the bearing replacement was not in waste. Look for the release. His modified windlass now works up and down remotely, but, the windlass plays out anchor line uinder high tension and has to be cleated off. The one way bearing stops this, but, remote down operation is not possible.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by j.g.evans

i helped a friend with the same problem. His windlass has a one direction needle bearing on the motor before the gear box. I don't know how they work, but, McMaster Carr has them. He replaced this bearing with a normal needle bearing and he got up and down operation. Later he found there is a mechanical release in the windlass allowing the down operation. His was frozen so the bearing replacement was not in waste. Look for the release. His modified windlass now works up and down remotely, but, the windlass plays out anchor line uinder high tension and has to be cleated off. The one way bearing stops this, but, remote down operation is not possible.

Did you notice that this has already been resolved without the need to replace bearings?

[newbie-]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

Boatie is right, if you have a chain stopper. If you don't then tie a snubber line onto the chain and secure it to a stout cleat. But never anchor the night relying on the windlass to hold the chain. It might not hold, or even more fun it might rip the windlass out of the deck (seen it happen a couple of times).

I've been planning to use an anchor bridal. But I can see how having both a stopper and a snubber/bridal in combination is the ideal setup. Looking in to installing a stopper.

My current anchor is a small OE danforth style. I don't know the weight but since I can fairly easily lift that and chain I'm guessing maybe 10lbs. Likely not something very sturdy.

If I get a bigger anchor I may need to make changes to the roller too. So the plan is to hold off for now until it's clear what's happening up there. I'd like to grossly oversize the anchor just for the peace of mind.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by newbie-

My current anchor is a small OE danforth style. I don't know the weight but since I can fairly easily lift that and chain I'm guessing maybe 10lbs. Likely not something very sturdy.

If I get a bigger anchor I may need to make changes to the roller too. So the plan is to hold off for now until it's clear what's happening up there. I'd like to grossly oversize the anchor just for the peace of mind.

The Danforth design is great for softer bottoms when pulled from a constant direction - the large area of its palms makes for good holding but it doesn't reset reliably. I use one for a stern anchor for bow-in Med moor, and given the soft mud in old harbors it is a great solution and stores easily on the pushpit. But for a general purpose anchor I would not recommend it. And for the PNW it is a terrible choice for rocky anchorages. For a general purpose primary anchor a Vulcan or similar is probably the best for use with an anchor roller. Designs with the arch on top (Rocna, Manson Supreme) often don't play well with rollers, but if they work for you they are also top notch anchors. Considering that a 45# Vulcan can be bought for less than $500 you shouldn't put off getting one, or again, something similar, as having at least one good anchor is a major safety requirement.

Greg