Wireless controller for my windlass

[AndyEss]

Love it.

Manufacturer wants 400€ for old school solution.

Empowered users do it for 15€

[kas_1611]

I got a second connector from Quick, a long length of multicore cable, a waterproof junction box and built an extension cable for my controller.

At 12m long we can run the windlass from the stern or anywhere from bow to stern. It makes Med mooring with just the 2 of us onboard so much easier as I can operate the windlass while the Admiral reverses us in and be on the stern to throw the stern line to shore. It also makes it much easier to anchor stern to shore as the Admiral can drop the anchor and reverse in while I paddle the dinghy like mad to meet her with the shore line.

And when we are just anchoring normally I just hook the Quick controller to the deck socket as normal and can leave it safely connected and secured just in case we need to adjust the anchor.

Wireless sounds great but what happens when the batteries go flat halfway through an operation or God forbid you have a butterfingers moment and it goes "splash"?

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by kas_1611

I got a second connector from Quick, a long length of multicore cable, a waterproof junction box and built an extension cable for my controller.

At 12m long we can run the windlass from the stern or anywhere from bow to stern. It makes Med mooring with just the 2 of us onboard so much easier as I can operate the windlass while the Admiral reverses us in and be on the stern to throw the stern line to shore. It also makes it much easier to anchor stern to shore as the Admiral can drop the anchor and reverse in while I paddle the dinghy like mad to meet her with the shore line.

And when we are just anchoring normally I just hook the Quick controller to the deck socket as normal and can leave it safely connected and secured just in case we need to adjust the anchor.

Wireless sounds great but what happens when the batteries go flat halfway through an operation or God forbid you have a butterfingers moment and it goes "splash"?

Wireless vs 40 ft of wire to trip over? I have been using wireless for a couple of decades. Have two fobs and spare batteries. The fobs do not die instantly, their range goes down and you get lots of advanced notice that the batteries are failing. Just switch fobs and carry on. Change the battery at your leisure.

The advantage of cordless is that you can operate the windlass from anywhere. I am at the helm to decide exactly where to drop the anchor. Start dropping and walk forward while continue to drop chain. This is ideal for dropping in windy conditions or in a crowded anchorage. Same is true to raise anchor. I can be at the helm or anywhere I need to be to see.

And I'll bet that my cordless is less expensive and just as reliable as your 40 ft of wire and a connector that might be corroded or get pulled.

[kas_1611]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Wireless vs 40 ft of wire to trip over? I have been using wireless for a couple of decades. Have two fobs and spare batteries. The fobs do not die instantly, their range goes down and you get lots of advanced notice that the batteries are failing. Just switch fobs and carry on. Change the battery at your leisure.

The advantage of cordless is that you can operate the windlass from anywhere. I am at the helm to decide exactly where to drop the anchor. Start dropping and walk forward while continue to drop chain. This is ideal for dropping in windy conditions or in a crowded anchorage. Same is true to raise anchor. I can be at the helm or anywhere I need to be to see.

And I'll bet that my cordless is less expensive and just as reliable as your 40 ft of wire and a connector that might be corroded or get pulled.

Hey I didn't say it was perfect or a better option.

It's no less a trip hazard when tucked under the toe rail than jacklines along the deck and I can operate my anchor from any point between bow and the fold down swim platform on my boat too.

My deck connector has been in the elements for over 10 years and is in virtually pristine condition thanks in part to the waterproof cap that sits over it when it isn't in use and the extension and secondary connector are stored inside the cabin out of the weather and sun unless needed. Corrosion and wear are virtually non existent.

However as I have already dropped a handheld VHF over the side and a bike I'll stick to my wire so if I do drop the controller it doesn't sink to the bottom of the bay and I can retrieve it easily.

I'm glad you are happy with your wireless system, that's great. I just put my solution out there as an alternative.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by kas_1611

Hey I didn't say it was perfect or a better option.

It's no less a trip hazard when tucked under the toe rail than jacklines along the deck and I can operate my anchor from any point between bow and the fold down swim platform on my boat too.

My deck connector has been in the elements for over 10 years and is in virtually pristine condition thanks in part to the waterproof cap that sits over it when it isn't in use and the extension and secondary connector are stored inside the cabin out of the weather and sun unless needed. Corrosion and wear are virtually non existent.

However as I have already dropped a handheld VHF over the side and a bike I'll stick to my wire so if I do drop the controller it doesn't sink to the bottom of the bay and I can retrieve it easily.

I'm glad you are happy with your wireless system, that's great. I just put my solution out there as an alternative.

A lanyard around your neck with the fob on it is pretty foolproof. Haven't dropped on yet.

[chrisr]

we have a lewmar windlass, which replaced the previous muir.

still using the remote control that we installed for the muir. being branded like this, it did cost a few hundred AUD (certainly heaps less than 400 euro) but we're happy with it

can someone with the cheap wireless controller ex ebay or where ever care to comment on the ruggedness etc of the control unit ?

cheers,

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by chrisr

can someone with the cheap wireless controller ex ebay or where ever care to comment on the ruggedness etc of the control unit ?

The $15 wireless units are not very rugged at all, but many vendors supply two of the handsets. They are also cheap enough that having a completely spare receiver and handset is not going to break the bank.

We found the reliability poor, but I suspect this was a combination of a high power windlass (3500lb model) and anchoring over 300 days a year. Most people report reasonable reliability.

There are some other problems:
Even a very brief push retrieves enough chain that securing the anchor on the bow roller can be frustrating.
The batteries for the handset are non standard.
The range can be marginal, especially if you want to tuck away the receiver.
The handsets are not rainproof.

Given the low cost they are still a great solution, especially if teamed with a wired remote to act as a backup. However, the industrial crane controls solve all these issues and are still very inexpensive at around $100 so are worth considering.

[chrisr]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

The $15 wireless units are not very rugged at all, but many vendors supply two of the handsets. They are also cheap enough that having a completely spare receiver and handset is not going to break the bank.

We found the reliability poor, but I suspect this was a combination of a high power windlass (3500lb model) and anchoring over 300 days a year. Most people report reasonable reliability.

There are some other problems:
Even a very brief push retrieves enough chain that securing the anchor on the bow roller can be frustrating.
The batteries for the handset are non standard.
The range can be marginal, especially if you want to tuck away the receiver.
The handsets are not rainproof.

Given the low cost they are still a great solution, especially if teamed with a wired remote to act as a backup. However, the industrial crane controls solve all these issues and are still very inexpensive at around $100 so are worth considering.

sorry my bad terminology. i wasn't thinking about the remote handset. rather was thinking about the control unit which sits underdeck and is remotely activated by the handset

again : sorry my bad explanation but any thoughts on this part of the units ?

cheers,

[conchaway]

I use my lass to work my windlass.

[rslifkin]

Range wise, the cheap unit I'm using has plenty. It'll work anywhere on my 38ft boat with the receiver tucked under the forward berth next to the windlass solenoid (which keeps them both out of the chain locker and nice and dry).

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by chrisr

sorry my bad terminology. i wasn't thinking about the remote handset. rather was thinking about the control unit which sits underdeck and is remotely activated by the handset

again : sorry my bad explanation but any thoughts on this part of the units ?

cheers,

I had one, possibily two receiver units fail, but other cruisers have reported reasonable reliability so I suspect my larger windlass was the biggest problem, although, perhaps I was just unlucky.

[stormalong]

The issue I had with my first wireless was relay contact life. They are small relays and you are activating a contactor that can cause arcing. When the relay is opened, the contactor can cause a electrical pulse as it opens. The result is burned relay points. I solved this by adding a second relay in in the circuit and some de-spiking circuitry. Hasn't failed since. BTW, I have corded backup if needed.

The spike is caused by the movement of the solenoid as it retracts. It acts like a generator, as the contacts on the cordless controller open the spike arcs the small gap and burns the contacts. This is the same effect that happens in a permanent magnet motor as it briefly continues to spin after power is removed.

Yes, the fobs are not waterproof but they somewhat water resistant and I have never lost one to water damage.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by stormalong

The issue I had with my first wireless was relay contact life. They are small relays and you are activating a contactor that can cause arcing. When the relay is opened, the contactor can cause a electrical pulse as it opens. The result is burned relay points. I solved this by adding a second relay in in the circuit and some de-spiking circuitry. Hasn't failed since. BTW, I have corded backup if needed.

I never pulled the failed units apart, but I strongly suspected the back EMF from the contractor was the likely cause of failure. Unfortunately, this will rise as the size of the windlass and therefore the windlass control box increases, hence my more frequent failures.

Congratulations on fixing the problem. The fix was likely more expensive than the original unit , but the anchor windlass is an important bit of equipment that needs to be functioning well.

A backup switching system, such as a wired remote, is always a good idea, but I much prefer using the wireless remote and there are times when failure would be more than just annoying. Therefore this would be a worthwhile modification, especially for those with a larger windlass.

[Junk Viking]

I recommend original Lofrans controllers.
Preferably one with chain counter.
Anchoring is one area I will not compromise!
And I find Lofrans delivers the quality yet price competitive.

The LOFRANS Radio control chain counter THETIS 7003 will fit any existing setup AFAIK.
€240 including remote, receiver and the chain counter sensor in case you have a windlass without it build in. USB rechargeable battery.

I have installed and hands-on experience with THETIS 5003, the wired equivalent.
That is already such a game changer!
The wired runs about €210
Both can be connected to the solenoid box in parallel with Lofrans or other controllers.

[SOLAR SUPPORT]

I use remote controls for my windlass and also for my rewerse operatable e-winch which controls the main sheet.

Those cheap remotes work very good in one year or two. They are not very reliable offcourse because control units are not water proof.

I managed to clone those controls to New series four botton control units which enable me to control windlass and e-winch from the same remote controller. They are cheap too.

I recommend you to keep a backup of the remote control always. Because if the original remote Controller malfunctions then you can't control anything any more. Just clone the original remote controler.