Wireless controller for my windlass

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Dragging out an old one hoping someone who knows will respond.

We have had one for 5 years, anchor daily with a 3500 windlass 24v
Today black box died, find it hard to believe both remotes crapped out

Jumps on eBay and for the life of me, can't find a 24v variant in Oz (fast delivery) but find them in China, 12v, 24v and 12/24v

Ours has a definate 24v sticker but my question is....
Are they all 12v/24v and is it just some legislation that says in Oz they must be marked either or?

If so and a 12v also works on 24v I can have one in under a week vs China, a month or 3 and we won't be around to get it (heading north)

The relays don't care that it is 24 volt. The issue is the power for the receiver. 24 volts would be too high for a unit designed for 12. You can make a simple 12V power supply or buy one. Here is one on Amazon for 10 bucks. At that price it is not worth the bother to make one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Converter-R...NrPXRydWU&th=1

PS. Be sure to add some de-spiking circuitry across the relay contacts to save them from arcing damage.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by stormalong

The relays don't care that it is 24 volt. The issue is the power for the receiver. 24 volts would be too high for a unit designed for 12. You can make a simple 12V power supply or buy one.

Or, if I have a 12v power supply can I connect the black box to that?
(Sounder, VHF, fish finder all 12v)

So that will be.....
24 v windlass
Black box connected to toggle up-down switch at helm as it has been for 5 years
And power source for black box now 12v instead of 24v

Will that do it?

[noelex 77]

The industrial crane controls I suggested in post #13 of this thread are available in various voltages, but the most popular are 24v units (ours is 24v), so you might have more luck finding one locally.

They are more expensive, but I have been very pleased with ours. It solves some of the issues with the cheaper models and is still going strong despite accidentally having left the controller on the foredeck during an overnight sail.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Or, if I have a 12v power supply can I connect the black box to that?
(Sounder, VHF, fish finder all 12v)

So that will be.....
24 v windlass
Black box connected to toggle up-down switch at helm as it has been for 5 years
And power source for black box now 12v instead of 24v

Will that do it?

That will do it.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

The industrial crane controls I suggested in post #13 of this thread are available in various voltages, but the most popular are 24v units (ours is 24v), so you might have more luck finding one locally.

They are more expensive, but I have been very pleased with ours. It solves some of the issues with the cheaper models and is still going strong despite accidentally having left the controller on the foredeck during an overnight sail.

Thanks, I did see that and look at those online here
About 6 X more, so on our current result, 30 years of remotes, a new one every 5.

Plus I only recently bought a tray of batteries, good for nothing else.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by stormalong

That will do it.

Thanks
Ordering now.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Or, if I have a 12v power supply can I connect the black box to that?
(Sounder, VHF, fish finder all 12v)

So that will be.....
24 v windlass
Black box connected to toggle up-down switch at helm as it has been for 5 years
And power source for black box now 12v instead of 24v

Will that do it?

FAIL.
Can hear the 12v black box clicking but no up down on windlass
Waste of time and money that was.

Ordered a 24v version from AliExpress

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

FAIL.
Can hear the 12v black box clicking but no up down on windlass
Waste of time and money that was.

Ordered a 24v version from AliExpress

Check your wiring. Check that if you press the up or down button that the relay closes the contacts to activate your solenoid. If the relay closes the contacts something else is wrong.

[Simi 60]

Checked the wiring several times, even tried an independent benchtop power source

The solenoid is two decks and 40 feet away
The signal would never get to it
Its why I had it connected to the up/down toggle at helm - which has 24v running through it.
The up down toggle and solenoid work fine
The new black box from the remote clicks whereas the old one it was replacing was not

[s/v Jedi]

Your solenoids for up and down should just react on a momentary switch input. You can check that by just pushing wires together.

When that works, you can create any remote using simple switches wired to the solenoid, or a wireless unit with the control box having relays to mimic the switches.

[s/v Jedi]

https://www.amazon.com/Yuangang-12V-...s%2C167&sr=8-5

[aqfishing]

This is great thread, thank you all. Would be nice if those of you who have good functioning units could tell us what you bought, and not just the price. Thanks to those who have.

Is there one that comes with a chain counter? If not, is there a simple reliable easy to add chain counter one can install at the helm.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by aqfishing

This is great thread, thank you all. Would be nice if those of you who have good functioning units could tell us what you bought, and not just the price. Thanks to those who have.

Is there one that comes with a chain counter? If not, is there a simple reliable easy to add chain counter one can install at the helm.

These are general remote controls, not windlass specific. If you want a chain counter you will need an entirely separate device or something specifically designed for a windlass.

Something could be designed around an Arduino type microcontroller. That would be a good project for someone to develop and share.

[Jamme]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

https://www.amazon.com/Yuangang-12V-...s%2C167&sr=8-5

Thanks. This is exactly what I installed. I am very happy of the result; the range is more than enough, it works perfectly from the helm. Installation is very easy: if I could do it without blowing up in a cloud of smoke, trust me, anyone can!

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Your solenoids for up and down should just react on a momentary switch input. You can check that by just pushing wires together.

When that works, you can create any remote using simple switches wired to the solenoid, or a wireless unit with the control box having relays to mimic the switches.

After testing the black box off of the controls, same sort you linked to it's a 12v signal that comes out of the wires when you press up/down

Ain't going to work on a 24v windlass, not ours anyway.