[Experience sharing] Panama eastbound to ABC

[SYDanae]

When preparing for the eastbound passage from Panama, we read many negative experiences and discouragements (also here on this forum). As we have just completed a succesful and comfortable passage from Panama to Curacao, I wanted to share our story too for those who consider going a similar way. Note we might have been extremely lucky – I guess you need some luck when you take a shot at going this way. But it definitely is doable!

For context: we are dualhanded a steel 36ft yacht, averaging ~5kts on longer passages.

Whilst cruising in Panama, we monitored long term wind and hurricane forecasts daily. At approx Oct 11 (12 days before we eventually arrived in Cuaracao), we noticed NHC identified a disturbance quite southerly at the African coast (~13”N). This disturbance was forecasted to track straight west and was therefore a good candidate to cause a wind reversal in the Carribean Sea.

We monitored this disturbance for a couple of days and calculated that based on the current average speed of the developing system, it could theroretically arrive at the longitude of the ABC islands on Oct 22. (Note that there are many factors identifying the actual speed of a system. But you need to start your estimation somewhere!). Reverse engineering from this date, we decided to leave Oct 15 (“Day 1”) from the Swimming Pool anchorage in San Blas.

Day 1-2: San Blas > Puerto Obaldia (110nm)
We left the Swimming Pool anchorage in the morning of Day 0 for an overnight sail to Puerto Obaldia to get clearance out of Panama. Apart from one thunderstorm coming off the coast of Panama causing 1h of heavy rains and 25kts of wind, this passage was fairly comfortable.

We could have checked out of Porvenir, but chose Puerto Obaldia since we had positive experiences upon entering Panama, Porvenir was known to charge an additional $100 for an international Zarpe, and we had observed many nightly thunderstorms in the area on a straight line between Porvenir and Cartagena. Had we started from Porvenir, it would have shortened our trip by 50nm and we would have benefited some more from the NE-going current.

Day 2-3: Puerto Obaldia > Cartagena (160nm)
We anchored for 2h at Puerto Obaldia, checked out, stocked up on some fresh food, and left at Day 2 around 11am towards Cartagena. 10nm out of Obaldia, we were forced to pass underneath a dark front of clouds, causing 25-30kts headwinds for about 2 hours. After this system had passed, winds eased and we had a great ride to Cartagena. This trip, we motored aboult half of the time. The other half, we had a magnificent beam reach on flat seas. We had to stay viligant for thunderstorms which were coming of the coast but were lucky to navigate in between. We stayed about 12-18nm offshore to optimize NE-going currents. We noticed that once we would find floating debris (logs, palm leaves) in the water, this would likely be the center of the ‘eddy’ and we would steer more inland.

At this point, the Atlantic disturbance was now forcasted to increase in force, with a strong spread in spaghetti models and strength forecast (differing between a Tropical Storm and a Category 3 Hurricane).

We checked short-term weather forecasts, which showed NE winds between Cartagena and Santa Marta on Day 4 and 5 which we would rather avoid. We could have waited at the Rosario islands, but we needed to take on diesel for the remainder of the passage. Therefore we continued to Cartagena, where we arrived just after nightfall on Day 3. Here, we dropped anchor and waited under yellow flag.

Day 5-6: Cartagena > Santa Marta (120nm)
Since we did not want to spend too long under yellow flag whilst anchored at Cartagena, we decided to leave in the morning of Day 6 despite forecasted 12 hours of headwind.
Contrary to our expectations, we had a great broad reach sail from Cartagena to Punta Canoas (25nm). At that point, the wind died and headwinds arrived (as forecasted) NE 18kts, together with confused seas. We tacked upwind and arrived at the mouth of Rio Magdalena (Baranquilla) at 9am. At this point, wind died again and we motorsailed across the mouth of the river at a distance of 4nm. From here, we had a beam/close hauled sail to Santa Marta.

By this time, the tropical disturbance had been classified as hurricane Tammy. Instead of heading into the Caribean Sea, it curved NW towards Saint Maarten. This decreased the chance of a true wind reversal (westerly winds). However, the combination of Hurricane Tammy combined with a cold front from the USA entering the Caribean Sea quite westerly, resulted in a ~60h window with calms (max 5knots forecasted) in the area between Colombia and Aruba. This made us decide to continue past Santa Marta. In case the forecast deteriorated, we had a plan B to anchor at Cabo de la Vela for a couple of nights.

We passed Santa Marta at about 1500 local time on Day 6. (Note this would be an opportunity to bunker diesel if you needed to).

Day 6-9: Santa Marta > Curacao (370nm)
Tayrona National Park is notorious for generating strong cabatic winds – we weren’t spared and encountered a 30kts squall with heavy rains. We experienced strong adverse current (1.5-2kts) going around this corner. Currents eased once we passed Cabo San Juan de Guia.

We crossed towards Cabo de la Vela and kept about 13nm offshore. We would have likely experienced stronger positive NE currents when we would have sailed closer to shore. However, the passage close to shore is not very well charted, and you encounter a pipeline extended to sea near Riohacha. We have read 1-2 comments where boats succesfully used the ‘small craft passage’ ~1nm offshore, but we decided to stay out at sea.

Closing in to Cabo de la Vela, positive NE currents increased to 1.5kts. We passed the cape at 1700 local time on day 7. On our way down from Curacao, we passed Cabo de la Vela with 33kts of wind and steep high seas. This time, conditions could not have been more different: light SW breeze and flat seas. This allowed us to motorsail as close as possible to the coast and have current running with us all the way to Punta Gallinas.

At Punta Gallinas, we hit the notorious West-going current. We decided to cross the strongest part of the current at 45-degree angle and motored towards 14”43N, 71”13W. From here, we turned east to get in the ‘shade’ of Aruba. As forecasted, we experienced no wind, just some little swell.

At this point, forecasts were not conclusive at what point in time easterly winds would pick-up again. Therefore, we continued our easterly 90 course to have some leeway in case these winds would indeed kick-in. Moreover, we benefited from little to none adverse currents in this area.

Eventually, we decided to head to Curacao Spanish Water where we arrived at 1400 at Day 9. With the wind as forecasted, we could have gotten as far as Bonaire with relative ease!




Learnings/observations:
- Take your time: we were lucky to make it in one go. But by leaving Panama mid October, we had an additional month to wait for a better opportunity in case the long term forecast did not materialize. Having a time buffer, we never felt stressed and could be picky on the actual weather window. From December onwards, trade winds pick up and you will struggle to make passage.
- Since we were sailing during periods of calms, there is a large chance of local thunderstorms developing along the Colombian coast. We have seen many and encountered a few. Have a plan in place, monitor clouds closely, and reef early
- The passage goes against the prevailing current. The current does have a strong impact on your average speed (5+2 = 7 kts versus 5-2 = 3 knots). By staying close to the coast, we benefited from some eddies that gave us a push in the right direction. (However, sailing close to the coast also increases chances of unexpected thunderstorms..)
- Go ‘step by step’: there is many good anchorages/stops along the coast if conditions are less than expected. To name a few: Isla Tintipan, Islas Rosario, Cartagena, Puerto Velero, Santa Marta/Taganga, Cabo de la Vela
- Carry enough diesel: we ran our engine for ~80% of the passage (100h). You can refuel with ease in Cartagena, Puerto Velero (supposedly – to be confirmed) and Santa Marta.

[Stingo]

Thank you for this. It was well worth the read

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by SYDanae

”...Tayrona National Park is notorious for generating strong cabatic* winds – we weren’t spared and encountered a 30kts squall with heavy rains...”

Thanks for the detailed, and coherent description. Very informative, and well told. Well worth the read, indeed.

* Katabatic winds descend downhill, on the lee side of a mountain, due to gravity pulling cooler higher density air, downslope, towards warmer lower density air.