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thinwater · 19-11-2017, 18:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by HopCar

Thinwater, I've used tri-bar sliders to make loops in the end of webbing many times. It is the easiest way I know to put a flat loop in webbing. I've never used it on something as crucial as a jackline nor do I have any idea how strong it is.

Have you ever tested these?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Uya3uL1q3Ac

From what I know of harness testing...

a. There is a huge range in quality. Some pass, some do not.
b. Climbing harness and sailing harnesses use them, BUT, that is as a loop, so they are only carrying 1/2 the load.

Thus, I'm guessing they are generally less than 60% strength. That said, Wichard uses them on jacklines, so it is possible. Boy would it be nice to know which ones.

thinwater · 19-11-2017, 19:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yeti

During my time in the fire service we used the water knot for all our webbing based hi-angle rescue anchoring points. The webbing was usually 1" tubular webbing with a breaking strength of around 6000 lbs. Two or three anchoring points of this stuff and we would put a guy over the side of a bridge and bring him and another up.

Here's a link to the animated knots water knot page.
Water Knot | How to tie the Water Knot | Knots

Look closely. That is a ring bend (for making a runner), not an end loop (overhand loop).

Same shape, different name, different strength.

Souzag818 · 19-11-2017, 19:23

I'm in the 'sew a loop with Gore-Tex thread then cleat off the other end 'group. And take it off and stow when not being used.

Fuegomar · 21-12-2017, 16:26

Sewing won't rust and most riveted materials have not survived over the years. Either one is probably better than not having a line. I've found it simpler to just clip to strong points around the boat. I once tripped over the jack line and have since found it intrusive too so I don't use one.