Killing mold for good?

[seadog47]

75% hydrogen peroxide and 25% rubbing alcohol. First kills organics, second sterilizes.
Bob

[Rapnjar]

I've not tried this but I've seen people load several 10lb bags of charcoal into a plastic or metal tray to leave inside the boat when no power source is available to keep the humidity low. Apparently the charcoal is super-dehydrated and absorbs the moisture.

Cheap enough to give it a try. YMMV

Jeff

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by geoleo

BLEACH + DEteRGANT PRODUCES POISON GAS!!

Bleach + ammonia = chlorine


Bleach + detergent... I don't know what you mean.



Typically the bleach simply breaks down the detergent and is neutralized in the process. This is the reason they are not mixed.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Bleach + ammonia = chlorine


Bleach + detergent... I don't know what you mean.



Typically the bleach simply breaks down the detergent and is neutralized in the process. This is the reason they are not mixed.

Anyone mixing Ammonia and bleach is a fool. Ammonium chloride will kill you in no time.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by SRQsailor

...
Current boat has a complex insulated liner, "rich upholstery", lots of storage, and plenty of mold friendly environments. For the last twenty years I've had the best effect using "SunPac" formaldehyde bags.


https://www.doitbest.com/shop/cleani...mold-inhibitor


Horrible stuff! Toxic. Burns eyes and throat. Probably illegal in Califiornia. Apologies to the environmentally conscious. But one in the V-berth, one in the head, one in the cabin and one in the galley, does a fine job when the boat is locked up tight for two or three months at a time....

This works by releasing formaldahyde, which is a known carcinogen. It is a registered pesticide and the registration required that it only be used with a "written fumigation plan."


In fact, formaldahyde-based products are banned quite a few places. Not something I want in my life, and I'm a refinery guy.


BTW, certain head treatments are based on formaldahye. Read the MSDSs. These have been banned in CA and several other states are talking about it. Quite a few do not allow pumping of marine heads or chemical toilets into treatment works for this reason.


I'm not anti-chemical, but this is one where the risks out weight the benefits. There are better choices. Concrobium and the borax-based products actually last much longer in most applications.


Regarding upholstery, washing with the borax-based formulation or Oxiclean, followed by extraction with a carpet vac is VERY effective at cleaning and preventing the return. Very effective. When I sold my 20-year old cat, several people asked where I had the cushions recovered, and we really lived on them, spilling food and sunscreen.

[BBill]

I'm surprised 3M Marine Mildew Block hasn't been mentioned. I've used it over 15 yrs with great results. I'm in Florida and it doesn't get much worse here for breeding mold. Wash first but spray it on and mildew doesn't come back for months to yrs. This isn't snake oil or a home brew but is pricey.

[NormanMartin]

I have had very good results from Concrobium or however it is spelled.

[pbmaise]

This advice is primary about preventing mold from starting and not removing extreme case.

#1 Be careful about your paint. Any paint with latex in it will support mold. Epoxy paint is best.

#2 Aboard my vessel I found frequent wash downs of all surfaces including ceilings is key. If the boat is open and a stiff breeze kicks up spray, causing salt loaded air to enter the boat cleaning must be very frequent. Even daily.

3. I start with clean rag, two cup of water, and five drops of bleach. When the water starts to look dirty I make a new solution. I experimented with added a few drops of liquid soap and the mold came back fast. I concluded mold eats soap.

4. In addition to being sure all showers, after swimming, are on deck with removal of salt laden clothing, keeping salt water off bedding and cushions is also important. I have slip covers that can easily be washed. About twice a year I also wash the cushion covers and air cushions in the sun.

Keep salt off everything prevents moisture. Rub your finger on a surface and taste it. If you taste salt you will soon have mold.

[Lepke]

I have a large wood boat that had many deck leaks when I bought it. Lots of mold. Besides repair and the usual cleaning, the trick is ventilation. If you don't have power, then you need to install some type of vent that removes air like a wind turbine or solar powered vent.

I have an ozone generator. I'm not convinced it does anything. Maybe if on continuously, but I liveaboard.

[Richard7]

I installed a Fletner TCX on my forward hatch. It's one of those whirly things you see on the roof of delivery vans. Works well as long as there's a breeze to make it go. It pulls air from the v-berth, and since the boat is not airtight it creates a nice flow. No more 'dew drops' on the aluminium hatch frames or insides of lockers.
So far it has not let in any water, but have not had big waves crashing over the foredeck yet. Hope it holds its own

[David Mathis]

Be cautious about home brews using bleach to kill mold. The chlorine will have a detrimental effect on many materials with some weakening over time and sometimes accelerated aging. Hydrogen peroxide in grocery store strength, about 3%, will Kill mold and not be nearly as destructive on most materials. Another substance that is quite effective as an anti-mold liquid is 40-50% ethyl alcohol, as in vodka, gin, etc. However, many commercially available products are effective and reasonably priced. They have been tested on most common materials so the risk of damaging the surfaces in your boat are greatly reduced.

[Windcall]

Tried Tea Tree oil, Bleach, what works for us is vinegar and water, never completely gone but much better. Captian Mary read that Bleach doesn't penetrate, I wanto to install solar fan she says no more holes in boat!

[ob44]

We use Tea Tree Oil diluted 50% with water in a spray bottle. It kills the mold and leaves the boat smelling great. Available at any pharmacy. It’s a natural biocide. The mold does return, however. I don’t care what product you use, if you leave the boat locked up in the summer for any period of time, you will have mildew. It is a constant effort to keep the boat mildew free.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Anyone mixing Ammonia and bleach is a fool. Ammonium chloride will kill you in no time.

Ammonium chloride is a solid. Chloramine gas is the problem.


In fact, chloramine is used to disinfect drinking water, but at only a few ppm. It is also used for cooling tower treatment, in which case it is made by adding bleach and ammonia to the tower, one at a time (not together).


Chloramine can also be used as a VERY effective and easy to use fumigating agent, but I'm going to let folks Google that.


Also relevant to swimming pool chemistry. Complicated topic.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by BBill

I'm surprised 3M Marine Mildew Block hasn't been mentioned. I've used it over 15 yrs with great results. I'm in Florida and it doesn't get much worse here for breeding mold. Wash first but spray it on and mildew doesn't come back for months to yrs. This isn't snake oil or a home brew but is pricey.

Effective at cleaning on hard surfaces, but not as effective at preventing return. I've tested that and and many other agents side-by-side.



Basically bleach, and as others have mentioned, bleach has many drawbacks on a boat. Bleach is useful for stain removal in some cases, remembering that it can weaken or bleach many materials, and that it will only set rust and tannin stains more firmly.I find it mostly useless on a boat.