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Old 23-09-2006, 07:41   #16
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Before you do anything look carefully at the Samson Rope "Amsteel or Amsteel Blue" The 1/4" is stronger than SST 1/4" stranded lifline, it wont rust, wont get meathooks, it's cheaper (unless you insist on buying it at West Marine) and it is more comfortable, non chafing, non snagging. As for stretch Amsteel probably stretches about the same as wire...and did I mention it does not absorb water, floats and is "easily spliced" . Take a look at it on the Samson site. Many boats are going to it and someday the "racing" and Offshore rules will catch up to the technology.
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Old 23-09-2006, 08:04   #17
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Instead of using stainless, I know several people who have plastic coated lifelines that are made from parafil http://www.linearcomposites.co.uk/prod_parafil.htm

This has the same strength as stainless, but doesnt rust!
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Old 24-09-2006, 23:41   #18
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Just had a suss of the Racing rules.

The only material allowed is SS wire.
Coated wire is a no-no.
The wire may pass through a tube with holes to let the water out.
3, 4 or 5mm depending on boat size.


If you're not racing use whatever you like.

Point to note - insurance companies are using phrases like 'as required by XXX Authority'. We have seen some policies which state the International Yacht Racing Rules as one of those XXX Authorities. Read your small print just in case.

Using Amsteel or similar has/is being done. The big downside is how do you know when it's time to replace it? With wire that's reasonably easy but with many fibres you don't know until it's to late i.e you're swimming with the fishes thinking "Damn, that had a XXX ton break load when I put it on 3 years ago." All of these fibres break down in sunlight, some quite quickly, and you can't see that happening most of the time.

Imagine the distress if the Mother In Law fell overboard from a dodgy rope lifeline. Scrub that last comment and I'm of to the rope lifeline shop
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Old 25-09-2006, 00:31   #19
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Suggestion...

If you're looking for good folks to deal with and have any rigging questions, check out RiggingOnly (www.riggingonly.com) . Good prices, tech support, return policy and stock. Ususal disclaimer re: no business relationship,etc...just a satisfied customer thru the years. Regards, Michael
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Old 13-10-2015, 05:58   #20
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Re: Lifeline replacement

Quote:
Instead of using stainless, I know several people who have plastic coated lifelines that are made from parafil Linear Composites Ltd

This has the same strength as stainless, but doesnt rust!
Yes, Marine Guard Rails
http://linearcomposites.net/media/pa...e_study_06.pdf

But it probably costs too much. Our SS Coated need replacement now after 34 years.
Is the stainless steel lousy these days?

Coated or not is personal preference if you don't race. Do you want to see them in the dark?
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Old 13-10-2015, 06:36   #21
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Re: Lifeline replacement

I would not recommend dyneema. I used it and am not happy with the amount of stretch in it.
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Old 13-10-2015, 06:46   #22
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Re: Lifeline replacement

I'm not fond of lifelines that can be cut with a sharp object.

Stainless should not be coated. It can go active. This means that the very thin layer of chromium oxide that prevents further oxidation becomes ineffective. Stainless steel needs to be exposed to atmospheric oxygen for it not to oxidize.

Article: When is stainless steel passive or active - formation of the passive layer
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Old 13-10-2015, 09:02   #23
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Re: Lifeline replacement

The tradeoff no one mentioned:
- If you use the same strength , the lines are much thinner and uncomfortable to hold or fall against.
- If you keep upsize the lines to keep the same diameter, they are heavier and more expensive. (not the end of the world but a consideration)
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Old 13-10-2015, 09:16   #24
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Re: Lifeline replacement

I've used both uncoated and coated. Both work great. I lean a bit toward uncoated, simply because anything you tie onto coated lines, or which rubs on them may wear away the vinyl anyway.
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