Soot problems with Dickinson Heater?

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

Another ex-San Francisco Bay liveaboard who had a Newport. The key to reliable operation (for me) was getting a swiveling Charlie Noble. The kind with a cap that always pointed into the wind.

If you get significant soot, you are not getting it hot before turning the fuel flow up, you are firing it too high, or your stack is too short (and hence too little draft). There shouldn't ever be any soot on deck to clean up.

I loved mine. Nice, comfortable, dry heat. Add fans in the cabin to move the hot air around.

We have a Fab-All, a close copy of the Dickinson. I think the swiveling Charlie Noble is one of the best additions Jim made to ours, next to the computer fan at the bottom. Prior to the latter we had rare downdraft issues, and the combination of fan and swiveler have cured the problem entirely. I really didn't like seeing the fireball we had once! He made the swivel cap out of a very inexpensive liter and a half pot. The fly to keep it head to wind was made from the cutout for the rear-facing air hole.

As Sailing Harmonie suggests, our installation has benefited from a fan that circulates the warm air towards the cabin sole.

Warm fingers beats numb fingers.

WE HAVE NEVER HAD WHAT I WOULD CALL 'AN EXPLOSION', NOR AN EXPLOSIVE DISCHARGE OF SOOT, EITHER OUTSIDE OR INSIDE THE CABIN.


Ann

[CarinaPDX]

Fuel pump vs. gravity tank: For many years I relied on an adjustable pressure Walbro pulse-type fuel pump for the heater. It was mounted with rubber, inside the sound-proofed engine compartment. The ticking sound, once every few seconds, was barely audible and was just part of the background in the winter. With the years I became increasingly irritated by it (a sensitivity to sounds often develops in long-term cruisers). One day I realized that the engine's day tank was about a foot higher than the heater's carburetor so I tried bypassing the pump: success! Even though the heater is about 10 feet in front of the fuel filter, requiring nearly 15' of fuel hose, there was enough difference to allow it to work. I don't miss the ticking. (I am not sure that I can do this with the new engine as it draws more fuel and may out-compete the heater.)

Yes, starting the heater with alcohol is a (small) problem if it is still hot - usually the result of forgetting that preheating is in the works, letting the flame die and needing to try again. So wait a bit until the burner cools down to try again. (The same applies to preheating a kerosene stove.) Or live with the smoke and soot from using diesel to start up.

Greg

[mvweebles]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

Yes, starting the heater with alcohol is a (small) problem if it is still hot - usually the result of forgetting that preheating is in the works, letting the flame die and needing to try again.

I used high quality lamp oil as a starting fluid. Some come with a convenient squirter bottle. Here's an example.

Liquid Paraffin Lamp Oil - 1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J6RH5RF...p_mob_ap_share

[deblen]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV3KsQe7VPI&t=37s

[WildBill]

Considering the manual discusses fuel viscosity I'm wondering if anyone has considered preheating the fuel. When I get back on land I have a spare carb for my Arctic and I'm going to pull it apart to see what the float and needle and seat are made of. I'm thinking it could possibly improve low temp performance and reduce soot? Just a simple copper tube loop behind the heater..

[deblen]

Originally Posted by WildBill

Considering the manual discusses fuel viscosity I'm wondering if anyone has considered preheating the fuel. When I get back on land I have a spare carb for my Arctic and I'm going to pull it apart to see what the float and needle and seat are made of. I'm thinking it could possibly improve low temp performance and reduce soot? Just a simple copper tube loop behind the heater..

Pre-heating probably will work.


https://nwfuel.ca/whats-deal-winter-diesel/


Are you aware of Canada's 2 available diesel viscositys-#1 & #2,& how kerosene is used in winter blend?

Each viscosity is only available at specific times of year.
I learned the hard way that the diesel you buy in summer will not light your oil furnace ,if that fuel has sat outdoors in a tank in the cold.
Also,it will barely start a diesel in real Canadian cold.

I may tank my sailboat in May & still have some"summer"diesel left over in tank all winter.
Cheers/Len

[mako]

So would mixing some kerosene into the exterior diesel tank be enough to thin it out for cold weather?

[WildBill]

Thanks for the replies!
I'm aware of different grades of diesel.
I'm aware thinning kerosene is an option however no cap on my day tank and 350 L of diesel on board.
To much heat for one thing, Smaller flame would be nice. Even kicking around installing a cheap Chinese heater burner in the bottom of the Arctic.
OR a diesel forced air but what to do with the Arctic space, woodstove?

[deblen]

Originally Posted by mako

So would mixing some kerosene into the exterior diesel tank be enough to thin it out for cold weather?

Yes-for stoves-but it is complicated when it is used in modern diesel engines.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_diesel_fuel

[WildBill]

Aware of that too. Not messing up the diesel in my tanks for a heater.

[WildBill]

Well that worked well! I wrapped 3 coils of 3/8" copper tube around the bottom of the heater going into the inlet of the heater carburetor. Fuel temperature in is 8° C or 47° F going into the top tube, carburetor temperature is 25° C or 77° F. Burning clean! Only problem I have come across is it takes to long to shut off so I'm going to install a ball valve before the T fitting to shut fuel off to the vertical burn tube.

[mako]

That's a really good idea @WildBill, and easy enough to dress up the copper tubing from an aesthetics point of view.

[WildBill]

You don't think copper looks nice?

[mako]

Aesthetics are purely personal Bill. No offense meant.