Adler Barbour BD50 - will it work

[jlundbe]

I found an Adler Barbour BD50 compressor with a Danfoss 12v controller and cooling fan next to an 'icebox' in my boat. There is no evaporator but the piping is still in place. The QC stamp is 2001 but I know the boat was not used for at least ten years.

I have the Danfoss manual explaining the 10ma LED test procedure.

I am in a nice but small out-of-the-way port in Mexico where buying a 10ma LED is not possible.

1. can I do the LED tests with a multi-meter?

2. is there a low pressure sensor that can prevent the compressor from starting (obviously there is no refrigerant and no pressure in the system)?

3. any other advice?

Muchas Gracias

[Coolerking]

The unit will run with or without refrigerant.
Does it look like there used to be an evap plate in the box?
When you say piping is in place, do you mean there are quick disconnect fittings on the compressor and the lines lead to the box and have been cut?
If the compressor has been sitting open to the atmosphere, then the unit/lines are going to need to be completely and carefully flushed with the proper flush solution and refilled with the correct oil, then re evacuated.
The reason im asking is maybe it was never put into service and could still have a partial charge in it still.

[jlundbe]

Coolerking, thanks for the reply.

I assume there was an evaporator plate since there are two copper tubes in the icebox. In the icebox one tube is attached to a very small tube which is wrapped around the other tube many times. The larger copper tube looks like it has been cut and its end is covered with duct tape.

There are two large copper fittings that reduce to what looks like 3mm copper tubes that run into the icebox but I don't think they are quick disconnect.

If the compressor is shaken the liquid inside can be heard.

I have connected the Danfoss controller to 12v but since I don't have the LED test light I can't identify the problem. It's useful knowing the compressor will run without refrigerant. Nothing happens when it's connected to 12v and the thermostat connectors are shorted.

The system was in service otherwise there would be no reason to cut the copper tube.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by jlundbe

Coolerking, thanks for the reply.

I assume there was an evaporator plate since there are two copper tubes in the icebox. In the icebox one tube is attached to a very small tube which is wrapped around the other tube many times. The larger copper tube looks like it has been cut and its end is covered with duct tape.

There are two large copper fittings that reduce to what looks like 3mm copper tubes that run into the icebox but I don't think they are quick disconnect.

If the compressor is shaken the liquid inside can be heard.

I have connected the Danfoss controller to 12v but since I don't have the LED test light I can't identify the problem. It's useful knowing the compressor will run without refrigerant. Nothing happens when it's connected to 12v and the thermostat connectors are shorted.

The system was in service otherwise there would be no reason to cut the copper tube.

If you get the compressor to run I can send you a rather beat-up but serviceable evaporator plate. (I too am in Mexico). You will need to engineer connections and do a flush of the pipes, (as noted above), plus vacuum and refill. You can get refrigerant and most of the equipment at Auto zone.

Caution, a new unit might be cheaper.

[Coolerking]

The lines are junk now, the cap tube has been cut.
The fittings and lines that lead from the unit itself to the box, need to be removed and tossed.
You will need a diode to test the module, and lots of tools/fittings and knowledge to pump it down to see if the compressor is any good, not to mention that the oil in it is full of moisture to the point that the internals are most likely shot to hell.

The only thing I can recommend is that if you want to have any kind of reliable system, buy a new one.

[jlundbe]

Thanks Coolerking,

By the cap tube I presume you are referring to the thin copper tube wound around the larger tube. This tube hasn't been cut but it is connected to the larger tube which has been cut and, at least, partially sealed with duct tape. Does this make the entire compressor toast?

[jlundbe]

Wingsail,

Thanks for the offer, as you can see from Coolerking's post things don't look promising but I may buy a new compressor. Right now I have a 120v fridge.

[Coolerking]

The cap tube is wrapped around the suction line for a bit then it is inserted into it and from there it is run into the plate, near the plate the line changes from copper to aluminum, once the lines are cut, it's game over.
You can buy the whole system from port supply, or any other marine supply house, they are designed to be a DIY kit, come pre charged with 134a, pretty easy to install if you are even slightly mechanically inclined.

[jlundbe]

Thanks Coolerking,

Do the tubes come with the evaporator plate?

What do you think the chance of success is if I accept Wingssail's offer of a used evaporator plate? I am tempted by the offer partly because I have no idea what size of an evaporator plate I need and because it will cost less (but maybe more in the end as Wingssail suggests).

[Coolerking]

https://www.westmarinepro.com/marine...ion-conversion

Look at this.

[jlundbe]

Coolerking,

After reading the reviews on the Westmarine site I don't know if I want a new Danfoss compressor. I realize satisfied customers don't usually post their positive comments while unsatisfied customers do so it's probably not right to judge solely on customer comments nevertheless I will look around a bit. What are your thoughts?

Thanks

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by jlundbe

Coolerking,

After reading the reviews on the Westmarine site I don't know if I want a new Danfoss compressor. I realize satisfied customers don't usually post their positive comments while unsatisfied customers do so it's probably not right to judge solely on customer comments nevertheless I will look around a bit. What are your thoughts?

Thanks

I know you directed your question to Collerking, but I'll answer anything and in this case I have relevant experience.

Our first electric refer was a Norcolder (Japanese swing compressor) which we bought for $25 at a swap meet. The guy wanted $40 but when he tried to demo the unit it boiled out thick smoke (wrong polarity I think) I offered $25 and he took it. It worked for 5 years, running continuously (in a bad box) at 5 amps.

In 2000 we bought an Italian unit with a Danfoss BD50 compressor and a evaporator plate (box shaped) We also re-worked the refer box. This worked pretty well unit 2010 when it simply quit although at one point in its life we had to replace the control unit. The average draw was about 3 amps over 24 hours. It could freeze ice in small amounts.

In 2019 that unit failed and, due to some damage to the quick disconnect fittings, we decided to buy another whole unit, this time Dometic, again with a Danfoss BD50 compressor. Again we re-worked the box and insulation. At three months it is still great, uses less than 2.5 amps over 24 hours (better insulation) has a bigger evaporator so more freezer capacity, and we love it. I expect we'll need another one in 10 years.

We've never replaced one of these in a port with refrigerator tradesmen, so we had to do all the work, mainly installation, ourselves, out in the boonies. A good refer man could have fixed our units without total replacement.

The cost of these units was about $1100 each.