Question Raw Water Winter Layup

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I too have always used the “green” stuff. I buy in concentrated and then mix it to our desired temperature. When we were in northern Ontario I aimed for ~70:30 concentration, so around -60C. Now that we’re in a more temperate climate (Newfoundland), I’m more like 50:50.

I know many who use the standard pink stuff on the engine. I learned using the standard engine antifreeze, so have just kept on doing so, although I know it is less environmentally friendly.

Ineteresting Mike and this is good information not only to the OP but also to others.
I never heard of it in concentrated form, care to elaborate where/what to get? I buy the jug at marine stores.
BTW, I loved the "more temperate climate" statement.[emoji869]

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Ineteresting Mike and this is good information not only to the OP but also to others.
I never heard of it in concentrated form, care to elaborate where/what to get? I buy the jug at marine stores.
BTW, I loved the "more temperate climate" statement.[emoji869]

I buy it at a standard auto shop. Most antifreeze is sold “pre-mixed” at 50:50. But you can usually find the unmixed, or concentrated versions, at the same locations.

Example:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...afz0/gal?pos=1

[frank7]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

My setup is as you describe; my bucket of antifreeze is above the engine. I’ve never had any problem. The water pump">raw water pump sucks it up quite easily.

As noted, the hardest part about this method (as opposed to pouring into the sea strainer) is detachment of a hose. They can be quite stiff if they haven’t moved in a long time.

Sounds good , will try that

[frank7]

I see lots of folk talk about RV anti freeze (pink) ever heard of that ?

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by frank7

I see lots of folk talk about RV anti freeze (pink) ever heard of that ?

“Pink” antifreeze, to me, means standard plumbers antifreeze. Propylene glycol (I believe). It is the non-toxic stuff, as opposed to the very toxic stuff used in engine cooling systems (and the same stuff I use to winterize my engine).

Some people use this to winterize their engines. So far, I’ve not heard of a problem, but you do have to be careful which type of pink you choose, because some of it isn’t recommended for metal pipes. I assume this is because of corrosion risk.

I use pink in all my onboard plumbing systems, and pour some into the bilge, but I use the standard engine antifreeze on my engine.

[frank7]

Thank you for the feedback on anti freeze

[frank7]

Hello Mike ,
When they say RV anti freeze for the cooling system is that a brand or recreational vehicle .
What is recommended in the UK
So many types

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by frank7

Hello Mike ,
When they say RV anti freeze for the cooling system is that a brand or recreational vehicle .
What is recommended in the UK
So many types

I’m not into RVing, and I can’t speak from a UK perspective, but I’m pretty sure “RV antifreeze” would be the standard pink ‘plumbers antifreeze.’ Do read the label though. There are some with different compositions that aren’t recommended for metal.

[frank7]

Will do , thanks

[jalmberg]

I fill a big orange Home Depot bucket with 5-6 gallons of water system type anti freeze, disconnect the hose from the raw water through hull, plonk it in the bucket, and start the engine. Have a helper standing near the exhaust and make sure you can communicate with the engine running. When the pink stuff comes out of the exhaust, you’re done! Shut her down!

It’s only scary the first time.

[StoneCrab]

I take the raw water supply line off the seacock and put it into the bucket of antifreeze. I find it too hard to pour into the strainer and not make a mess since my strainer is right over the engine.

I suck the antifreeze out of the bucket with the engine running. This avoids the flooded exhaust muffler problem.

Disconnecting the hose is also a good safety check of the condition of the hoses in that area. Hoses don't last forever and with the raw water supply connected to a seacock, if the hose is old and brittle, I'd rather have it crack off in my hands while I am winterizing on the hard than have it happen at sea.

If you drop the hose in the bucket and it doesn't suck up the antifreeze, you may have a small hole in the hose which is introducing air, preventing the vacuum needed to lift the fluid. Another reason to use this method.

It definitely helps to have a helper on watch by the stern.

[David Mathis]

Does the engine have a thermostat? It's highly likely. When the engine is cold, the antifreeze you're dumping into the engine raw water intake will bypass the block and go directly into the exhaust system then be discharged without displacing the raw water in the block and head. A block drain can usually be found just above the oil pan. Removing the drain plug should result in water being removed from the block and head(s). If you can't locate it or if it's difficult to access, remove the lower hose to the circulating water pump (Not the raw water pump.) which should drain the block and head. Replace the drain plug or hose after the water has drained, remove the upper hose or thermostat housing, then dump in your pink antifreeze until full. Starting the engine for just a few seconds should circulate the antifreeze and dilute any pockets of water that didn't drain.

[StoneCrab]

Originally Posted by David Mathis

Does the engine have a thermostat? It's highly likely. When the engine is cold, the antifreeze you're dumping into the engine raw water intake will bypass the block and go directly into the exhaust system then be discharged without displacing the raw water in the block and head.

Great point that is rarely brought up.

[Halloween]

When a raw water cooled inboard engine is cold only a negligible amount of coolant goes through the water galleries, it simply by-passes the engine and directly to exhaust. Thus a short run of the engine until anti-freeze is exhausted does not give the engine any significant frost protection.


Per Bukh advice, I used to run the engine to temperature, then run soluble oil (machine cutting fluid) through the engine, and finally drain the engine and exhaust system. That way there was neglible water content to freeze and do harm, and all surfaces were coated with oil. I was warned off putting high concentrations of anti freeze in the engine since it can damage O ring seals around cylinder liners and the like.






I recommend following the engine manufactures procedures unless one truly knows the risks of not doing so.

[frank7]

Interesting feedback . I was wondering why anti freeze blew out the exhaust manifold so quickly .
If l worked out how to send picture do you think you could tell me type of cooling system on engine .
I know it’s raw water but another pipe leaves engine and also heads to hull of boat.