Question Raw Water Winter Layup

[Howler]

For those who leave their boats in the water and pour antifreeze through the strainer or near the water pump">raw water pump with the engine running, that makes sense for everything downstream. But how do you deal with the upstream run of hose between the through-hull and the strainer / pump?

On my boat, it’s near impossible to access the raw water intake through-hull, wrestle the hose loose, and introduce antifreeze there.

On the other hand, with the thru-hull closed (boats in the water) it’s not clear how to purge the residual water and introduce antifreeze.

[rbk]

Originally Posted by Howler

For those who leave their boats in the water and pour antifreeze through the strainer or near the raw water pump with the engine running, that makes sense for everything downstream. But how do you deal with the upstream run of hose between the through-hull and the strainer / pump?

On my boat, it’s near impossible to access the raw water intake through-hull, wrestle the hose loose, and introduce antifreeze there.

On the other hand, with the thru-hull closed (boats in the water) it’s not clear how to purge the residual water and introduce antifreeze.

I don’t bother. It’s salt water, several feet below the waterline and it’s free to expand outwards into the ocean. If you’re really worried a bubbler should do the job. Fresh water is a different story and I wouldn’t be storing it in the water.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by Howler

For those who leave their boats in the water and pour antifreeze through the strainer or near the raw water pump with the engine running, that makes sense for everything downstream. But how do you deal with the upstream run of hose between the through-hull and the strainer / pump?

On my boat, it’s near impossible to access the raw water intake through-hull, wrestle the hose loose, and introduce antifreeze there.

On the other hand, with the thru-hull closed (boats in the water) it’s not clear how to purge the residual water and introduce antifreeze.

My winterizing happens on the hard. When the boat lifts out of the water the thru-hull seacock and immediate hose is gravity drained. I then drain my sea strainer by pulling the plug at the base of it. I can reach in and get my hand on the plug (a plastic butterfly bolt).

If the boat is being stored in the water, I wouldn't worry about the thruhull and seacock -- not unless you're planning to have the boat solidly frozen in. But I would still drain the sea strainer.

[hugosalt]

Here in the "milder" climate of western Long Island sound we sail all winter.
Installed a valve right after the sail drive raw water intake with a hose that I leave in a small bucket in the lazarette.
When temp goes below 27-28 F for any extended time I will winterize. Do this 5-6 times a winter season capturing the exhaust antifreeze in another bucket each time and use it next time I winterize before pouring a fresh gallon of AF.
Usually pour some AF into hose before hand so impeller not running dry.
I always run motor to operating temp before winterizing.
Motor is a Yanmar 3 GM raw water with Sail drive, use 1 gallon of fresh AF each time.
Will be doing tomorrow/Thurs a.m. as will be going into teens over Christmas here in New York.
Anyone want to come sailing this winter?

[seasilk]

Take care that if this is an engine that is "internally" cooled by moving raw water past a heat exchanger, that you check the antifreeze level in the internal reservoir as well as injecting antifreeze into the raw water cooling portions of the engine.

[Howler]

Originally Posted by hugosalt

Installed a valve right after the sail drive raw water intake with a hose that I leave in a small bucket in the lazarette.

That's a great idea. And, although a little off topic, I recently learned of other uses for a hose attached as such (no endorsements and if there's a discussion on this, best start a new thread to not take away from the OPs question on antifreeze):

1. Firefighting - If you need to get a large quantity of water to a Type A fire, turn off the engine, leave the thru hull and open and your diverter valve and you have a great firehose. Just don't forget to close the thru hull when the fire's out or you'll need #2 below!

2. Bailing - If you're taking on large quantities of water, close the thru-hull, open your diverter valve, and immerse the tip of the hose in the bilge where water is collecting. Keep the engine running and the raw water pump will pump water from your bilge instead of from the sea. Once the leak is contained, close the diverter valve and reopen the thru hull so you keep your engine cool.