Repainting my steel boat

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by Pete7

I have been following this YT channel as he rebuilds an old steelie. I thought he was barking when he first started but he has the skills and is taking his time.

Thanks for this, much appreciated, It could be exactly what I have been looking for

[conachair]

Originally Posted by JimMann

Wow I just went full circle the previous owner said to red lead it as well. I’m really new to all this so just wanted some second opinions.
:

Without a load of different samples on the same area/same preperation and waiting 10/20 years no one knows.....

Another link

https://youtu.be/1M_8sGfUkng

And another..

https://youtu.be/GIw_VxfzCis

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by conachair

Without a load of different samples on the same area/same preperation and waiting 10/20 years no one knows.....

Another link

https://youtu.be/1M_8sGfUkng

And another..

https://youtu.be/GIw_VxfzCis

It doesn’t need sandblasting, below the waterline is fine, the only rust is on the gunnels where the previous owner drilled holes to stop it holding water.

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by conachair

Without a load of different samples on the same area/same preperation and waiting 10/20 years no one knows.....

Another link

https://youtu.be/1M_8sGfUkng

And another..

https://youtu.be/GIw_VxfzCis

Second vid is great

[Fore and Aft]

If money was no object the best way to go is to blast back to bare steel and start a whole new coating system supervised by a NACE coating inspector to make sure there is the correct paint thickness and no pinholes.
Painting steel yachts is usually a bit hit and miss if you compare it to working on commercial steel projects.
I surveyed a steel yacht at the start of the year and she had recently been blasted and painted yet there was no specific documentation to say how thick each coat of paint was or what the conditions were like on the day of painting.
Cheers

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by JimMann

Wow I just went full circle the previous owner said to red lead it as well. I’m really new to all this so just wanted some second opinions.

Excuse me for asking a stupid question but would I just patch anywhere that needs it with red lead or use it as a primer as well?

Thanks

The red lead paint is the primer and the high build.

Since the original "red lead" paint was basically boiled linseed, or one of the other natural drying, oils mixed with lead oxide. Since we now discourage the introduction of lead to the environment I suspect that anything labelled "red lead" these days does not actually contain lead oxide and the oil base is probably a synthetic resin.

[JimMann]

I’ve read some people use red oxide instead, ever hear of that?

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by JimMann

I’ve read some people use red oxide instead, ever hear of that?

Red oxide is lead oxide, or was once, PbO.

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

Red oxide is lead oxide, or was once, PbO.

It says zinc phosphate

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by JimMann

It says zinc phosphate

Could that be a later replacement. Haven't seen tins of the real stuff for years. We used to paint the workshop floor with it usually before some VIP visited. That all stopped and we had to use some non slip grey stuff instead. Probably better for our health and the environment.

Pete

[ausnp84]

Hey mate,

I went through this a few years back with a 43ft steel ketch. Grit blasted back to bare steel, then coated with Jotun 2 pack epoxy primer and 2 pack poly on top.

I found it was impossible to always get paint on immediately after blasting and was worried from what everyone else was saying about surface rust forming. 9 years later, still no rust.

I can’t speak highly enough of getting a surface tolerant epoxy primer - big commerical ships can’t always be tented so a good primer takes light surface rust into account. Hell, it even worked on areas I angle grinded then rough up with a wire wheel. Again, some people will have you believe that’ll cause all sorts of issues. Get the right primer, get a couple of coats on, and you should be a-ok.

Hope that helps!

N

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by ausnp84

Hey mate,

I went through this a few years back with a 43ft steel ketch. Grit blasted back to bare steel, then coated with Jotun 2 pack epoxy primer and 2 pack poly on top.

I found it was impossible to always get paint on immediately after blasting and was worried from what everyone else was saying about surface rust forming. 9 years later, still no rust.

I can’t speak highly enough of getting a surface tolerant epoxy primer - big commerical ships can’t always be tented so a good primer takes light surface rust into account. Hell, it even worked on areas I angle grinded then rough up with a wire wheel. Again, some people will have you believe that’ll cause all sorts of issues. Get the right primer, get a couple of coats on, and you should be a-ok.

Hope that helps!

N

Hi there,

She has epoxy inside and out, the only rusting is from holes drilled in the gunnels that we’re holding water while on the hard standing. I will be cutting the gunnels out so I will only need to treat the exposed metal after grinding off.

Thanks

[ausnp84]

Originally Posted by JimMann

Hi there,

She has epoxy inside and out, the only rusting is from holes drilled in the gunnels that we’re holding water while on the hard standing. I will be cutting the gunnels out so I will only need to treat the exposed metal after grinding off.

Thanks

Oh right, that’s pain-free then! Two pack epoxy straight on top of it (2-3 coats to be safe) then top coat and all sorted👍

N

[JimMann]

Originally Posted by ausnp84

Oh right, that’s pain-free then! Two pack epoxy straight on top of it (2-3 coats to be safe) then top coat and all sorted👍

N

I’m looking at Hempel 2 packs but there’s a couple to choose from, can you point me in the right direction please. It’s all so confusing

Thank you

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by JimMann

It says zinc phosphate

Zinc phosphate used to be widely used, it was usually a greenish color.