Changing depth/speed transducer 'sleeve'

[sailcruiser]

Hi all, we had a dead depth transducer and got a new one that doesn't fit in the existing sleeve (?) that it screws into so we are tasked with changing that too. Are there any tips or tricks to this besides brute force?

The unit is a Raymarine ST-60.

Any tricks would be much appreciated. I do have a solvent for 5200 which only works marginally at best. The hole size is the same but internal diameter of the sleeve is smaller.

Thanks!
SC

[pbiJim]

If the new unit is smaller than the old unit, my first move would be to see if a local machine shop can fabricate an adapter.

[sailcruiser]

Originally Posted by pbiJim

If the new unit is smaller than the old unit, my first move would be to see if a local machine shop can fabricate an adapter.

That would make sense. At this point I'd declare the existing sleeve/mushroom partially destroyed from attempts thus far.

SC

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by sailcruiser

Any tricks would be much appreciated. I do have a solvent for 5200 which only works marginally at best.

There was a van in the parking lot of my local marine supply place a few weeks ago that advertized this stuff for removing 5200 - DeBond Corporation

I haven't tried myself.

[Cheechako]

Sounds like you are in for a quick haul to get er done right. You might see if someone will just do it end of day and leave the slings on the boat and splash in the am for less?

[Jim Cate]

I'm not sure what your specific problem is in the removal, but this is what I have done is similar situations:

Assuming that you have reasonable access to the through hull fitting, take a coarse hacksaw blade and pass it through the fitting. Make several longitudinal cuts through the plastic "sleeve" and into the sealant, dividing it into several narrow strips. Using a screwdriver or narrow chisel, pry individual segments out. When they are all removed (and this may take some force), use the hacksaw blade to mechanically remove as much sealant as you can. If there is a lot of residue remaining, try your solvent to get the rest. Then install the new fitting...

Good luck,

Jim

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I'm not sure what your specific problem is in the removal, but this is what I have done is similar situations:

Assuming that you have reasonable access to the through hull fitting, take a coarse hacksaw blade and pass it through the fitting. Make several longitudinal cuts through the plastic "sleeve" and into the sealant, dividing it into several narrow strips. Using a screwdriver or narrow chisel, pry individual segments out. When they are all removed (and this may take some force), use the hacksaw blade to mechanically remove as much sealant as you can. If there is a lot of residue remaining, try your solvent to get the rest. Then install the new fitting...

Good luck,

Jim

[sailcruiser]

Cheechako, yes I try to do things once if at all possible. I hate worrying about kludgy repairs. We are out of the water. I try to do everything myself first before calling in the pros. It helps keep the kitty with a little more cash.

Jim C. Thanks. That is kind of what we were doing but really like the hack saw blade for the hole. Trying one of those vibrating/oscillating tools for the accessible areas.

I am firmly on the evil 5200 bandwagon despite that is exactly what we will use to install the new one. I can really feel for the folks who find random deck hardware 'sealed/glued' by a PO using this stuff.

Off to give it another go.

SC

[Cheechako]

Exactly why I like it! I want something that is very hard to fail!
I'm unclear though, are you having a lot of trouble getting the old one off.. or just worried you will?
I've found metal and some of the nylon plastics really don't hold that hard to 5200...?

[sailcruiser]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Exactly why I like it! I want something that is very hard to fail!
I'm unclear though, are you having a lot of trouble getting the old one off.. or just worried you will?
I've found metal and some of the nylon plastics really don't hold that hard to 5200...?

The problem is getting the old one off. It is hanging on quite well so far. It is a plastic/nylon type material. One pro I called just wanted to drill a new hole. I said no thanks to that idea. I prefer as few holes as possible in my boat especially under the waterline.
SC

[pbiJim]

If you want to avoid the haul out, you might try one of my old poor-man's tricks for working on below-the-waterline thru-hull fittings.

Swim down under the boat with a sturdy little plastic bucket & a lumber crayon or a grease pen. Mark the bucket by eye so that when you come back top side, you can cut the open end of the bucket to match the shape of the hull around the fitting you want to work on. After 3 or 4 tries, you should have the shape of the bucket cut pretty close to what you want. Then go down again with the bucket, but this time bring a tube of life calk, or some other sealant that will dry under water. Calk the bucket to the hull under the fitting. After the calk dries, you will be able to cut out the thru-hull from inside the boat & not sink. When you are done with the repairs, swim down with a razor knife & cut the bucket free, then do what you have to do to get the rest of the calk off of the hull.

It's a time & labor intensive method, but it saves you the cost of a haul out. Depending on which resources you have more of, it may be a viable option.

Also consider adding some sort of flange fitting that can be blanked off for future repairs, then mount the new sleeve in a removable flange.

[sailcruiser]

Originally Posted by pbiJim

If you want to avoid the haul out, you might try one of my old poor-man's tricks for working on below-the-waterline thru-hull fittings.

Swim down under the boat with a sturdy little plastic bucket & a lumber crayon or a grease pen. Mark the bucket by eye so that when you come back top side, you can cut the open end of the bucket to match the shape of the hull around the fitting you want to work on. After 3 or 4 tries, you should have the shape of the bucket cut pretty close to what you want. Then go down again with the bucket, but this time bring a tube of life calk, or some other sealant that will dry under water. Calk the bucket to the hull under the fitting. After the calk dries, you will be able to cut out the thru-hull from inside the boat & not sink. When you are done with the repairs, swim down with a razor knife & cut the bucket free, then do what you have to do to get the rest of the calk off of the hull.

It's a time & labor intensive method, but it saves you the cost of a haul out. Depending on which resources you have more of, it may be a viable option.

Also consider adding some sort of flange fitting that can be blanked off for future repairs, then mount the new sleeve in a removable flange.

pbiJim, we are out of the water already. I'm not brave enough to try this as a first try. With my luck I'd sink the boat. Slowly but slowly we are chipping things away. It's a painful process and can see why it's silly expensive to pay someone to do it. I'm glad to have the experience though because I'm sure it won't be the last time something like this comes up. I'm not sure how long the existing transducer was in there but I'm guessing 15-20 years. Fun! The new sleeve does have a flange.
SC


Pbi

[Opie91]

Is the old transducer bronze or plastic? If its bronze a little time with a propane torch will loosen it up nicely.

Torch on metal not fiberglass

[sailcruiser]

Originally Posted by Opie91

Is the old transducer bronze or plastic? If its bronze a little time with a propane torch will loosen it up nicely.

Torch on metal not fiberglass

It is or was plastic. The transducer brand is Raymarine. Using some tips from above posters the old is out. We ended up using the hacksaw blade, an oscillating multi tool, an old glad bladed screwdriver and some solvent to soften the 5200. Now I just need to clean up the old 5200 and reinstall the new mushroom. Do these things have a name?!

I really appreciate the advice. I am certain the tricks saved some time and elbow grease.
SC

[Pete7]

Do you have an angle grinder and do you feel confident using it?

Stick a flap wheel in it and grind away.

I put our ST60 transducers are held in with Sikaflex, should I ever need to replace the "mushroom" it will come out with the angle grinder.

Pete