EU vs US electric

[jstevens]

"Even rewiring the pedestal won't work. You just can't get 120V out of a single phase 240V supply just by swapping wires around."

I should have stopped writing before making that assertion. I assumed the power within the pedestal is 2-phase, just had a brain fart, forgetting with it would be 440VAC 2-phase. No way to get 120VAC out of that without some sort of a transformer.

John

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by carstenb

Care to expand on this? Not sure why my boat would be wired for 15 amps? And if I plug into a 110 outlet, when this goes through my charger won't it be halved or more than halved to less than 15 amps

The normal EU boat is wired for 230v/16a. This means the shorepower cord needs to be protected with a 16a breaker at the pedestal. Downstream from the main breaker inside the boat, everything should be OK.

[carstenb]

Originally Posted by DotDun

The normal EU boat is wired for 230v/16a. This means the shorepower cord needs to be protected with a 16a breaker at the pedestal. Downstream from the main breaker inside the boat, everything should be OK.

Ok trying to un derstand (this is electricity for dummies).

So I buy a US plug and make an adapter wire with a US plug at one end and an EU at the other. But I have to intall a 16 amp fuse in this adapter wire somewhere.

Did I get that right?

carsten

[K_V_B]

Originally Posted by jstevens

I should have stopped writing before making that assertion. I assumed the power within the pedestal is 2-phase, just had a brain fart, forgetting with it would be 440VAC 2-phase.

No, in Europe you will not find 440VAC 2 phase anywhere. What you have is either 230V single phase, or 400V three phase...

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by carstenb

Ok trying to un derstand (this is electricity for dummies).

So I buy a US plug and make an adapter wire with a US plug at one end and an EU at the other. But I have to intall a 16 amp fuse in this adapter wire somewhere.

Did I get that right?

carsten

If you follow the "rules", yes the shorepower cord needs protected.

Technically, if nothing happens to the cord (i.e., gets chafed, cut, etc.) and assuming the main breaker inside the boat is 16a it will protect the cord by only allowing 16a to flow thru it.

I've seen a big variety of shorepower connections that were not exactly following the rules.

[sailing_gal]

You need a transformer. I strongly suggest that you consult with a marine electrician before you do any of this. I worked with a marine electrical engineer who had sailed both US and Europe and lives in Europe for my setup. You cannot simply connect wires.

[carstenb]

Originally Posted by DotDun

If you follow the "rules", yes the shorepower cord needs protected.

Technically, if nothing happens to the cord (i.e., gets chafed, cut, etc.) and assuming the main breaker inside the boat is 16a it will protect the cord by only allowing 16a to flow thru it.

I've seen a big variety of shorepower connections that were not exactly following the rules.

well, so have I. I just don't want to fry my system.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by DotDun

If you follow the "rules", yes the shorepower cord needs protected.

Technically, if nothing happens to the cord (i.e., gets chafed, cut, etc.) and assuming the main breaker inside the boat is 16a it will protect the cord by only allowing 16a to flow thru it.

I've seen a big variety of shorepower connections that were not exactly following the rules.

I don't understand. The pedestal will have a breaker (30 amps in the U.S., usually).

Carsten's shore power inlet will have a breaker -- 16 amps, and probably an RCD.

What else is required?

I admit that I'm no longer much familiar with U.S. rules, so if there is something I'm not aware of, I will be grateful for the correction.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by carstenb

well, so have I. I just don't want to fry my system.

Your shore power cord, and your wiring between shore power inlet and main panel, may be rated to only 16 amps. I say "may be" because some French boats I've seen use the same wiring and sockets for both 230v and 110v boats.

If that's the case with your boat, then you do need to be sure that you won't put more than 16 amps through it. I would think that your main breaker/RCD will be enough.


Mine is 32 amps, by the way, but my whole shore power system is rated for 32 amps but only for the 16 amp blue plug on the end. If your main breaker, like mine, is 32 amps, then it is likely that your whole shore power system is good for 32 amps. Your boat manual may help you there, or just check the cross section of the wiring and the rating of the shore power inlet socket and plug.

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I don't understand. The pedestal will have a breaker (30 amps in the U.S., usually).

Carsten's shore power inlet will have a breaker -- 16 amps, and probably an RCD.

What else is required?

I admit that I'm no longer much familiar with U.S. rules, so if there is something I'm not aware of, I will be grateful for the correction.

It's assumed that Carsten's shorepower cable is rated at 16a and plugged into a receptacle that has a 30a breaker. With the 16a RCD inside the boat, it would take a very rare fault to cause a problem. Personally, I would probably use it that way in a short term temporary situation, but I would not recommend it to others. Upgrading the wire size in the cord is the correct solution, assuming the physical connection part is handled via an adapter.

I was simply pointing out the discrepancy between the pedestal breaker size and the shorepower current carrying capacity. Per the rules, one should protect the wire with a breaker to match.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by DotDun

It's assumed that Carsten's shorepower cable is rated at 16a and plugged into a receptacle that has a 30a breaker. With the 16a RCD inside the boat, it would take a very rare fault to cause a problem. Personally, I would probably use it that way in a short term temporary situation, but I would not recommend it to others. Upgrading the wire size in the cord is the correct solution, assuming the physical connection part is handled via an adapter.

I was simply pointing out the discrepancy between the pedestal breaker size and the shorepower current carrying capacity. Per the rules, one should protect the wire with a breaker to match.

Oh, I see. Thanks.

Note however that upgrading just the cable wouldn't be enough to fulfill this criterion -- the whole shore power system all the way to the 16 amp breaker on his panel would have to be rated 30 amps.

I would certainly not bother with it, myself.

[carstenb]

I checked my Sterling charger manual - says it is good for 90-260V automatically - so I don't ahve to do anything there, also good for up to 60 amps so sounds like i'm ok there

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by carstenb

I checked my Sterling charger manual - says it is good for 90-260V automatically - so I don't ahve to do anything there, also good for up to 60 amps so sounds like i'm ok there

60 amps is only 720 watts at 12v.

You can use a bigger inverter than that, but just keep in mind that you will be drawing down the batteries, if you use the inverter for long periods of time at max output.

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Oh, I see. Thanks.

Note however that upgrading just the cable wouldn't be enough to fulfill this criterion -- the whole shore power system all the way to the 16 amp breaker on his panel would have to be rated 30 amps.

I would certainly not bother with it, myself.

Correct!

[dan swift]

Hi all,
I would set the boat up to be self sufficient. Install solar panels and don't hook up to any power. I have a lagoon 410 and have not had to hook up to shore power ever. If I go to a marina I don't bother to hook up, the solar takes care of the whole boat.
I hope this helps