Hall of Shame. Johnson Ultima switch

[Cheechako]

I've had 3 ultra switches over the years, no failures.

[poiu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Here is a picture that I fabricated to help explain it: this was taken after 5 years of no-maintenance full-time service and I just replaced the failed switch so the one in the picture looks new;

The 3/4" PVC pipe that the switch is attached to is the suction pipe for the pump, which is a Whale Gulper 220. So the switch is immediately above the pump suction which is what they tell you -not- to do. Then you see the 1.5" diameter sanitary hose right above it which is the gravity drain from every sink, shower etc. into the central grey water tank, which is inside my keel sump. This hose is directly over the switch and all that comes through it falls right on top of the switch. This again is what they tell you not to do. In practice, violating both rules creates a perfect setup.

I must add one factor that makes a difference: the switch does not directly switch the pump but a low current control circuit to a timer-solenoid. This is to keep the pump running longer and gets almost all the water out.

The mechanism for self cleaning is that while grey water entering the tank is washing the switch, the pump starts running and immediately sucks up anything that washes off the switch because it sucks from right under it :-)





Well I do that as well, but until there is a documented pattern we must assume this is the best switch to use. I did test it with very slow filling and it works every time, much more reliable than a float switch

Thanks. I can see this will clean the switch a bit, but I'll bet that grommet isn't perfectly sealed. I think you've done really well to last 5 years.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by poiu

Thanks. I can see this will clean the switch a bit, but I'll bet that grommet isn't perfectly sealed. I think you've done really well to last 5 years.

Not defending the switch because I think you're right, just saying that it is better than all the others I tested of the same design.

The self cleaning works well because before I made this, it required maintenance to free it up every 6 months and now it works forever except that the switch contacts fail after 5 years

My rolling ball switches (used for high water alarm) are labelled "Mayfair" and Googling shows that these are now labelled as Johnson. Mine are made in 1993, never touched water and still work. The problems start when they get wet (the hinge, may not float at some point) and when the ball switches a load on and off regularly because it will pit and develop dead spots.

[CdS2 Roland]

Good morning everybody,
Why don't you try Jabsco HydroAir 59400-0012. Nothing electric in the water, just a little plastic clutch and a plastic tube. Work fine on my boat since decades...
Easy to install.

[poiu]

Originally Posted by CdS2 Roland

Good morning everybody,
Why don't you try Jabsco HydroAir 59400-0012. Nothing electric in the water, just a little plastic clutch and a plastic tube. Work fine on my boat since decades...
Easy to install.

Yes, that one was mentioned above by others also. It will be the one I try next.

[exMaggieDrum]

I recently installed the Water Witch bilge switch and their high water alarm. I don't have enough experience with them yet to tell how well they will work in the long term.

Question on the Jabsco Hydro Air: I wonder how susceptible the tube from the bell up to the diaphragm switch is to blockage from crud floating on dirty bilge water - oil/diesel plus stuff that might fall in there? The manual shows shaking out the bell to clean. But the tube has a small diameter and would be hard to clean it seems. Any stories/experience on this out there to share?

P.S. I had an Ultra Jr. switch on my previous boat and it never failed for ten years. They are very, very expensive though.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

I recently installed the Water Witch bilge switch and their high water alarm. I don't have enough experience with them yet to tell how well they will work in the long term.

Question on the Jabsco Hydro Air: I wonder how susceptible the tube from the bell up to the diaphragm switch is to blockage from crud floating on dirty bilge water - oil/diesel plus stuff that might fall in there? The manual shows shaking out the bell to clean. But the tube has a small diameter and would be hard to clean it seems. Any stories/experience on this out there to share?

P.S. I had an Ultra Jr. switch on my previous boat and it never failed for ten years. They are very, very expensive though.

I just installed two Hydro air (Rule Eco 39) to replace the crap Aqualarm. Gross, but you could always blow down the tube to fix any sticking. I'm not sure anything will ever get in there though.... the pump should start draining before it gets to that point.

Matt

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

I just installed two Hydro air (Rule Eco 39) to replace the crap Aqualarm. Gross, but you could always blow down the tube to fix any sticking. I'm not sure anything will ever get in there though.... the pump should start draining before it gets to that point.

Matt

Matt, thanks for your input. If the bilge water doesn't get to the tube it wouldn't be a problem.

[chouliha]

Originally Posted by CSY Man

Try the Ultra switches, they never failed,

I had one fail after 16 years but purchased another as I think they are the best on the market.