Help: How do I wire these switches on this panel?

[davil]

forgot to emphasize the need to anticipate appropriate wires sizing for the anticipated load, as been mentioned by Gordon and others, (not currently done as a cursory look at the back of your panel shows a mismatch of sizes on the feeding red and black wires)
That is a very easy to do using readily available ampacity tables.

[Southcoasting]

Appreciate everyone’s feedback and concerns. Very valuable.

Just an FYI: Any wiring upgrades I have done already or will be doing I am following ABYC standards, replacing crap wiring and terminals with marine graded wiring and proper sizing per amp load, and have been using proper crimping tools…

Here are just a few pics of Nova Luna. As mentioned, I have redone nearly everything on this boat myself including recoring decks, new deck spray, engine rebuild, etc etc. So even though I may be an amateur , I am not your typical one.

[davil]

beautiful
see you kept the traveler in the original position, I removed it and installed on deck right in front of the dodger,
Is that the original engine?

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by Capt Clark

Yes, it’s ahead of that switch but downstream from the battery switch. If the battery switch is off, you have no bilge pump.

Capt Clark

Correct. There are 2 "consumption" circuits onboard that in my view should be wired to the always on "unswitched distribution": Bilge pump(s) and VHF. This way if some dummy turns off the boat, it can still pump bilge water and you can still call for help!!!

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by GordMay

See ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/galler...r&imageuser=79

And ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/galler...r&imageuser=79

Gord I see two overcurrent protection devices in the Main feed line to the panel. What is that requirement? I've never see that before.

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by Southcoasting

Appreciate everyone’s feedback and concerns. Very valuable.

Just an FYI: Any wiring upgrades I have done already or will be doing I am following ABYC standards, replacing crap wiring and terminals with marine graded wiring and proper sizing per amp load, and have been using proper crimping tools…

Here are just a few pics of Nova Luna. As mentioned, I have redone nearly everything on this boat myself including recoring decks, new deck spray, engine rebuild, etc etc. So even though I may be an amateur , I am not your typical one.

Nicely Done! I feel your pain, but you know every square inch now!

[Southcoasting]

Originally Posted by davil

beautiful
see you kept the traveler in the original position, I removed it and installed on deck right in front of the dodger,
Is that the original engine?

Thanks.

Being that mine is an early hull (177), it actually had the long 14’ boom. So I cut the end and retrofitted my boom to match the newer 10.5 foot boom design. Since I only cruise and don’t race, I did not feel I needed a new traveler so just retrofitted a new pipe to fit further ahead like the later hull numbers.

The engine is not original. I bought a later model “rebuilt” one that once taking things apart, I found was not rebuilt correctly (pistons not aligned correctly, etc etc ) so I ended up rebuilding it again from the ground up the right way with new pistons, rings, valves, etc. In hindsight, should have kept my original and rebuilt that.

[davil]

mine was a late 1978.
I removed and repositioned the traveler because was on my way getting down, however I always missed the ability to have something to grab while steering.

My original engine was a 2 cylinders in V (cannot remember the name) a German originally built by a tractor manufacturer.

[Rumrace]

Looks great. Time to test each circuit.

[Dieseldude]

Originally Posted by Southcoasting

I bought this Tartan panel to retrofit it on my Tartan 34 Classic. The old wiring was connected to a fuse penal. I am trying to figure out how to wire this panel switches. Does it matter which connector it goes to (top or bottom?).

Any good diagrams out there for how to connect switches?

These look like breakers, not switches. One terminal of each breaker is connected to a common buss bar. You connect the other terminal to each device. It is not a good idea to use breakers as switches. Breakers are not meant to be manually cycled frequently. They can fail early if cycled too much. Another thing to consider is if the current rating of each breaker matches the current draw of each device.


I would suggest that, if these are in fact breakers, you get yourself a quality rugged switch set that is rated for current value of circuits to be switched. Draw out your arrangement as a schematic, then do your wiring. Get yourself a quality ratcheting crimp tool that will crimp the entire barrel of the terminal. Crimps made by the thin jaw cheap crimpers are likely to fail. Wire could loosen out, or high resistance hot spot could develop and be a fire hazard. If you do not have some basic electrical skills, definitely get experienced help.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Dieseldude

These look like breakers, not switches. One terminal of each breaker is connected to a common buss bar. You connect the other terminal to each device. It is not a good idea to use breakers as switches. Breakers are not meant to be manually cycled frequently. They can fail early if cycled too much. Another thing to consider is if the current rating of each breaker matches the current draw of each device.


I would suggest that, if these are in fact breakers, you get yourself a quality rugged switch set that is rated for current value of circuits to be switched. Draw out your arrangement as a schematic, then do your wiring. Get yourself a quality ratcheting crimp tool that will crimp the entire barrel of the terminal. Crimps made by the thin jaw cheap crimpers are likely to fail. Wire could loosen out, or high resistance hot spot could develop and be a fire hazard. If you do not have some basic electrical skills, definitely get experienced help.

Sorry, I have to disagree. These circuit breakers are used as switches in many thousands of boats. My 36 year old boat has mostly original circuit breakers and they are fine to this day.

I do agree about matching load to circuit breaker rating and using a proper ratcheting crimper.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Do not forget to map out the current rating for each circuit breaker. The rating is on a sticker on the side of each circuit breaker. Sometimes it is engraved on the front of the breaker.



Match the anticipated load with the appropriate size breaker. Otherwise, you will end up with either C/Bs popping when there is no need for it or an under protected circuit.

Breakers protect wires not the equipment connected to them ( as a general strategy )

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by BAD ORCA

In the diagram scherzola posted shows a negative going to the grounding system and a "negative return' line also connected to the adjacent bus. What is a negative return line? Isn't it good enough to just have a single connection to the main negative bus that feeds the accessory negative connections on the distribution panel? What is the difference between a "grounding system" and "DC negative"?

Much confusion arises from a mix up in terminology and how different professionals use it.

In electronics for example a “ ground “ is merely the common return path for current typically shown as GND On a schematic . In recent years the more correct “0V” designation has become more prominent

Hence such GND has nothing to do with “ grounding “ or earthing

In other professions a ground ( or to be grounded ) is typically meant to be a connection to earth ( or sea water )

A boat needs a return circuit ( or GND) to function , it does not “ need” to be “ grounded “

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Breakers protect wires not the equipment connected to them ( as a general strategy )

Well, if you read the following few posts you would read further remarks. I will elaborate.

Most boat wiring is of a standard size. Boat builders do not analyze the loads and select a different wire size for each circuit, the only exception is high load circuits. Plus loads change as boats are modified. Most devices on boats are not individually fused. Radios are the exception.

So in an ideal situation what you say is true but in reality it is not. I stand by my original remarks. Select circuit breaker rating based on expected load, not wire size.

[GordMay]

There are two important parameters concerning the connection and disconnection [switching] of power for electrical circuits:
Making Capacity – The maximum load current at start up.
Breaking Capacity – The maximum fault current that can be interrupted.
A circuit breaker is designed, and is rated, for both making and breaking fault, and load currents.
A switch is designed, and rated, for only making, and breaking, load currents.
Both the ANSI and the NEC definitions acknowledge the potential for the legitimate use of circuit breakers as switches [per UL 489], but generally they are not intended for prolonged, frequent [or repetitive] manual breaking and making control [switching] of electrical equipment.

Label markings:
“SWD” This rating indicates a breaker [up to 20A] can be used to switch fluorescent lights, on a regular basis
“HID” This rating indicates a breaker [up to 50A] can be used to switch HID, and fluorescent lights, on a regular basis

Blue Sea Systems [for instance] “A” and “C” series [magnetic hydraulic] circuit breakers combine switching, and circuit protection, into a single device.