HF Radio Questions -- Atlantic Crossing

[MJH]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I'm getting ready for an Atlantic crossing on my friend's boat, and I'm trying to get the HF radio working.

It's a professionally installed Icom M801E, so quite similar to my own M802.

It receives fine and the tuner apparently works. The antenna is an insulated backstay, and the ground plane is two dynaplates. No corners were cut in the installation, which I guess was done as part of the original build in 2010.

But I can't seem to transmit. I get a slight flicker only on the power meter when transmitting, and I have not been able to make any contacts.

What could the problem be? Power is set to high; and I've tried other power settings as well.

Grateful for any tips.

I had similar experience in preparation for my voyage to Hawaii. I was told that testing SSB transmissions on local waters would not produce good results but would improve greatly once in the Pacific. That did not give me much confidence during my preparation but found it to be correct once in the Pacific. I have never understood the reasoning and look forward to reading other responses.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

[colinalleck]

Had similar problem. Dead microphone
Good luck

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Brian.D

OK... good luck. I wonder... does Marine SSB use LSB? I am not sure. I know that HFFAX transmissions are all USB. Hmmm... curious.

Also, wouldn't there be an indication of lower DC voltage when keying the radio, meaning, the radio's lights would dim, or the relays would chatter. Something.

No, but on amateur radio frequencies by convention we go to LSB below 10mhz.


Yes, I would have expected some sign of voltage problems, but the radio's lights don't dim and the relays don't chatter. Moreover this is an 801E, not 802. The 801E is fed with 24v and has a voltage stabilizer inside.


I don't know what the issue is, but I am going to check all the connections as was suggested.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by colinalleck

Had similar problem. Dead microphone
Good luck

That really could be it. I think I'll order a new one just in case.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by MJH

I had similar experience in preparation for my voyage to Hawaii. I was told that testing SSB transmissions on local waters would not produce good results but would improve greatly once in the Pacific. That did not give me much confidence during my preparation but found it to be correct once in the Pacific. I have never understood the reasoning and look forward to reading other responses.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

I thought of that, but the tx power indicator hardly registers anything, so I think it's clear the radio is not putting out much of a signal.

[Kevin_w4kjp]

I dont want to rehash what others have said but there could be a few different things that could cause the radio not to transmit.

What you described as flickering when you key the radio makes me go straight to a voltage drop. When the radio is RXing the draw is less than 2 amps but once you TX it would be much higher.

The microphone could be an issue sense USB does not have a carrier you wouldn't see any TX power unless the radio was modulating (you talking into the microphone).

You meantioned that this installation has a tuner but if at some point the tuner failed and the radio was used with a mismatched antenna (high swr) the finals could be shot in the the radio.

Keep us informed and hopefully you will find the issue.

[GordMay]

Sometimes, the microphone’s Push To Talk [PTT] button fails.
Try swapping the microphone with a unit you know is working, if you have, or can borrow, one.

Microphone Testing
➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/galler...r&imageuser=79

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Often, the microphone’s Push To Talk [PTT] button fails.
Try swapping the microphone with a unit you know is working, if you have, or can borrow, one.

Microphone Testing
➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/galler...r&imageuser=79

I'm pretty sure it's not the PTT button because I do get a flicker on the power meter when I am speaking.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I'm pretty sure it's not the PTT button because I do get a flicker on the power meter when I am speaking.

And you would see the Tx indication on the panel - at least you would on a 802 and I would expect the 801E to be the same.

You can (probably) select an AM mode (I could on my 802). Unlike SSB, AM will transmit full power without any modulation present, handy to trouble shoot potential tx modulation faults. AM should be selectable for 2182.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Wotname

And you would see the Tx indication on the panel - at least you would on a 802 and I would expect the 801E to be the same. .

Indeed.
Does “Tx” appear in the [14] function display, when you push to talk?
See page 10, of the manual.

ICM801E INSTRUCTION MANUAL
➥ https://icomuk.co.uk/files/icom/PDF/...ion_manual.pdf

[GordMay]

Never take power for granted. Just because the power supply light is on, doesn’t mean the output is at the right voltage.
Low voltage, especially when transmitting, can cause radios to exhibit all sorts of strange behavior. The microprocessor may not function correctly, leading to bizarre displays, loss of external control, and incorrect response to controls. Low voltage can also result in low power output or poor RF stability (chirpy, drifting, or raspy signals).

Check the supply with both AC and DC meter ranges. Hum on your signal can mean a failing power supply or battery. A DC voltmeter check may be just fine, but power supply outputs need to show less than 100 mV of AC.

If you suspect a poor connection, measure voltage at the load (such as the radio) and work your way back to the supply. Poor connections in a cable or connector cause the voltage to drop under load. They can be difficult to isolate because they’re problematic only with high current, such as when you’re transmitting.

Voltage may be nwhen you’re just receiving. Excessive indicator-light dimming is a indicator of poor connections or a failing power supply.

Start by removing all external power. Not just turning off the radio, from the front panel, but actually disconnecting the power cable. This lets any internal filter capacitors fully discharge, and all circuits get to a completely power-off state. Reconnect power.

If the radio responds to the PTT switch, but does not output RF power, use an external, known-good power meter and dummy load, just to be sure.
If you are using the radio’s power meter, make sure the meter is set to show power output, and not some other value. Check the user manual again, to be sure you have the radio configured properly. With so many of the radio functions controlled or performed by software, it is possible a setting has been corrupted, or mis-configured. I know, going through dozens of settings is tedious, and error-prone.

See also ka4wja’s EXPERT advice, at: “SSB radio receiving but not transmitting”
➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ng-173769.html


And perhaps ➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3543177

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Wotname

And you would see the Tx indication on the panel - at least you would on a 802 and I would expect the 801E to be the same.

You can (probably) select an AM mode (I could on my 802). Unlike SSB, AM will transmit full power without any modulation present, handy to trouble shoot potential tx modulation faults. AM should be selectable for 2182.

Hot tip.


So on H3E at 2182, not even a flicker.


So besides a bad mike, could be blown out finals I think.

[Curmugeon]

As it was professionally installed, why not ask the person who did the installation to talk you through it, or fix it.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Curmugeon

As it was professionally installed, why not ask the person who did the installation to talk you through it, or fix it.

Well, it was installed 10 years ago, when the boat was built. No idea who it was.

[carstenb]

Dockhead I had a similar problem. Nothing I could do would let me transmit. A ham operator on Hawaii suggested taking every single connection apart, cleaning them and reassembling. After I did that, the system worked perfectly. I never did find out which connection was bad - they all looked fine when inspected visually