Raymarine st60 speed transducer

[cutlass]

My Raymarine st60 speed refuses to give a reading. I've cleaned the spinning wheel and checked connections but it still doesn't work.

My thoughts is the transducer has a fault. I can't see a way of opening it. Are these things that can be serviced if I give it to a Raymarine technician or should I not bother and just order a new transducer?

Thanks!

[carstenb]

Generally, If you've cleaned the wheel and checked the wiring you will probably have to fork out for a new transducer.

When you pulled the transducer - did you get a good solid waterspout out of the hole? If not - maybe you have some seagrass clumped at the opening on the hull side that is grabbing the wheel when you reinsert it.

If you have a helper - pull the transducer and have the helper keep a good eye on the speed readout. if you spin the wheel fast enough with a finger you should get a readout

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by cutlass

My Raymarine st60 speed refuses to give a reading. I've cleaned the spinning wheel and checked connections but it still doesn't work.

My thoughts is the transducer has a fault. I can't see a way of opening it. Are these things that can be serviced if I give it to a Raymarine technician or should I not bother and just order a new transducer?

Thanks!

My ST60 screen "burned" in. I was very fortunate and quick to buy a used speed and depth setup from a member here. I have a spare transducer now as the one I purchased came with a transducer as well.

I presume the display head is turning on and displaying? I presume the transducer is out and in your hand and you are spinning the wheel manually.

There are three things that can go wrong - head, cable or transducer.

In this thread GordMay posted just about the best troubleshooting sequence for this on the net. No need for me to retype what he wrote...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ing-67899.html

The only question I have is his item 3 - I am not sure of the decision logic at this point. If the head reads by shorting the center to shield then the head appears to be working.

If the wheel turns but does not generate a signal (he head is confirmed good already) the transducer is bad. If at this point the wheel turns by hand and generates a signal then the water flow to the wheel may be bad (hull fouling) or the wheel resistance to turning is high and wont turn with water flow - either way potentially bad transducer.

PS - my transducer when clean will turn by blowing on it - i.e. it should turn completely freely.

[472426_L]

Our transducer would not read when in the water but passed all tests when out. Turned out to be eel grass forward of the thru hull fitting that tangled when the boat moved -- only visible on haul out.

[cutlass]

Thanks guys!

Gordmay explained it succinctly, thanks excalif

I've already pulled the transducer and spun the wheel but there's no reading. the display shows depth fine so I think this unit is ok.

I didn't know there was another connection 10ft along the cable! Hopefully that's the problem

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by cutlass

Thanks guys!

Gordmay explained it succinctly, thanks excalif

I've already pulled the transducer and spun the wheel but there's no reading. the display shows depth fine so I think this unit is ok.

I didn't know there was another connection 10ft along the cable! Hopefully that's the problem

There may not be. Mine is a continuous run to the head unit. However the check out is the same for the transducer.

[Lake-Effect]

The active, rotation-sensing device in the speed transducer is a Hall effect sensor, and this sensor and associated components are encapsulated ("potted") in a sort of epoxy. In other words, beyond cleaning or replacing the paddlewheel, the transducers are not serviceable.

(I know this because out of boredom, over a couple of weeks I picked away slowly at a dead transducer, and managed to expose the active device.)

As a last ditch check - there are 3 wires to the speed transducer; a ground, a positive voltage to power the sensor (between +5 and +12 v, depending on model), and one wire to carry the pulses from the sensor. If connections are correct and you can confirm the presence of the powering voltage at the transducer, then you should see pulses, using an oscilloscope or meter between the pulse out line and ground when you spin the paddlewheel. No pulses = dead transducer.