SSB Tuner Connection.

[btrayfors]

Cables shouldn't be a problem. You said you already had an AT140. All that's required is coax (any length) from the radio to the tuner, and a control wire from the radio to the tuner (smallish diameter).

B.

[AnchorageGuy]

Originally Posted by btrayfors

Cables shouldn't be a problem. You said you already had an AT140. All that's required is coax (any length) from the radio to the tuner, and a control wire from the radio to the tuner (smallish diameter).

B.

Sorry, Don't have the AT140 yet but probably what we will use. I know you are not a big fan of the 802 but we are considering the 802 or a 710 which we had in the other boat for years.

[captden]

Originally Posted by btrayfors

Cables shouldn't be a problem. You said you already had an AT140. All that's required is coax (any length) from the radio to the tuner, and a control wire from the radio to the tuner (smallish diameter).

B.

Thanks Bill that makes the instalation much easier, so instead of using the copper strap using the insulated wire would be a better way to go? Also would the water tanks be a better spot than the through hull?
captden

[btrayfors]

captden,

Nope. I was afraid of that (mixing up the "copper braid" or "grounding strap" with "wide copper strap").

Wide copper strap is #1; use it when you can. If you can't, then either something like Rick's suggestion (multiple wires) or more common copper braid used for grounding would be OK, but not as good as the copper strap.

Best place to get copper is your local roofing store. It comes in all sizes, and you can get the thicker stuff which will last longer in the marine environment.

The thru-hull should be sufficient, but tying in additional metal isn't a bad idea, so long as that metal isn't otherwise grounded to the DC system. Preferably, the thru-hull also should NOT be otherwise grounded to the DC system.

Bill

[AnchorageGuy]

Originally Posted by btrayfors

captden,

Nope. I was afraid of that (mixing up the "copper braid" or "grounding strap" with "wide copper strap").

Wide copper strap is #1; use it when you can. If you can't, then either something like Rick's suggestion (multiple wires) or more common copper braid used for grounding would be OK, but not as good as the copper strap.

Best place to get copper is your local roofing store. It comes in all sizes, and you can get the thicker stuff which will last longer in the marine environment.

The thru-hull should be sufficient, but tying in additional metal isn't a bad idea, so long as that metal isn't otherwise grounded to the DC system. Preferably, the thru-hull also should NOT be otherwise grounded to the DC system.

Bill

Bill, Most boats have the tanks and thru-hulls bonded together with the common green wire. Are these a problem when using tanks and thru-hulls for the ground system?

[btrayfors]

Generally, it's best if you're going to tie to a thru-hull and/or other metal in the boat that these NOT be bonded or otherwise grounded to the boat's DC system.

However, there are exceptions, and workarounds. One nice scheme was described by Stan Honey in his article on grounding. It uses a series of Type X7R Monolithic Ceramic capacitors, 0.15uF, to bridge a small gap in the copper strapping. This allows RF to pass, but blocks DC current. Here's the article: Grounding See the para entitled, "Inconsistencies in the Ground Rules".

B.

[AnchorageGuy]

Great info, thanks

[Hal]

Your transceiver is usually grounded through the coax braid going to the tuner.