Testing Wind Instrument and Lights - Mast Down

[Bandoleer]

Can anyone tell me how I can test my Raymarine ST40 wind instruments (annometer and direction), steaming light, foredeck light and anchor light with the mast down?

For the lights I'm sure someone will say get a car battery but I don't know if that will work for the wind instruments? Frankly I am concerned that, as the wires are so small, running 12V through it might blow the thing up! If it stops working while up I would also like to test it at the foot of the mast to assess if the problem is somewhere else.

I am researching multimeters with an integrated continuity tester. The mast is about 50' long. Will one of these work? If so what should I look for in the specs?

For example would this work?[/URL] Fluke 106 work?

[tkeithlu]

The size of the battery will make no difference. It's still 12 volts. The internal resistance of the circuit will take care of the current, which could blow things up.

Here's a multimeter I like, a lot cheaper than a Fluke (the Mercedes of multimeters) and more than adequate for your needs. Mine too, for that matter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTCMWLB...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[wholybee]

I used a 12V Lithium battery pack like can be used to recharge cell phones or jump start a car. Only because I had one and it fit in my pocket. But any 12V source will work for testing the lights.

For the wind instrument, it depends on the instrument. For older analog types, there is a test procedure using a battery and multimeter. But that doesn't work for newer instruments.

The best way might be to rig a test setup with everything needed to run the thing (dispay, NMEA cables/terminators, battery) in a box you can take with you. Exactly how again, depends on the instrument, and what you have available.

[capt jgw]

If the lights are incandescent a 6 volt lantern battery will work, just dimmer than a 12. Could work with LED depending on the voltage requirements of the lights. I don't think there is a way to test the wind sensor short of plugging it into the display. As Whollybee said bringing the display and a power source to the mast might be the only way.

[Hobby]

This PDF gives Masthead diagnostic info for ST 50 and ST60
Not sure if it will work for an ST 40

Try Pg 10 of the PDF

[Bandoleer]

Thanks for this.

For the instruments I know the whole system works. Where things get messed up is in the connection at the top of the mast. That is, I take the spinner / wind vane unit off the top of the mast in the fall and put it back on in the spring.

Where things have gotten mixed up is with the plug connecting the unit to the wires that run down the mast. I want a simple test to run once I have re-installed the unit to make sure the connection is working - that there is a closed circuit "up there."

Also, same thing with the lights. A simple double check before stepping that there is a circuit. No burnt out bulbs or detached wires.

Can I do that with one of these multimeters?

[Hobby]

Firstly, I’m not an electrical engineer so someone else may have a better explanation.

You can test continuity of the wiring with a multimeter. Hook up the wiring and at the base of the mast, identify the hot wire for each bulb. Use the continuity setting on the multimeter and check continuity to the ground wire. If you have continuity, that’s good but you may still have corrosion along the wire. The corrosion prevents the full 12 volts from getting to the bulb so the bulb won’t light. But having continuity is the necessary first step.

As the previous posters have noted, the only sure test is to wire up the 12 v battery. Then you know there is adequate wire to carry the necessary current.

You can test the wind indicator with the same technique.

Good luck and I would also recommend you buy a less expensive multimeter as Tkeitklu mentioned.

[Bandoleer]

Thanks very much for all the input.

I know that the ST40 instruments works great. In a perfect world Warren's idea is a good one but it would mean dismantling all of that out of the boat which is not an option and not really necessary.

Where I have had problems is in the connection at the top of the mast. Let me explain. I am in Toronto so take the mast down every fall and put it back up in the spring. I also remove the wind instruments from the masthead so they don't get damaged which necessitates a plug-in connection.

I have had issues where the plug connection fails, the wires come loose or are corroded, so once all is in place and before stepping the mast, I want to make sure that I have a circuit. My idea it is use the tester with probes on either side of the connector at the bottom of the mast to makes sure there is a circuit. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test that?


While I'm testing the wind instruments it makes sense to test the lights to make sure there are no bad connections. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test this?

[wholybee]

Refer to the document that Hobby posted. To test without the display, you need a powersupply to put 8V on the red wire, and ground the shield. Then use the meter to measure the other wires.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by Bandoleer

Thanks very much for all the input.

I know that the ST40 instruments works great. In a perfect world Warren's idea is a good one but it would mean dismantling all of that out of the boat which is not an option and not really necessary.

Where I have had problems is in the connection at the top of the mast. Let me explain. I am in Toronto so take the mast down every fall and put it back up in the spring. I also remove the wind instruments from the masthead so they don't get damaged which necessitates a plug-in connection.

I have had issues where the plug connection fails, the wires come loose or are corroded, so once all is in place and before stepping the mast, I want to make sure that I have a circuit. My idea it is use the tester with probes on either side of the connector at the bottom of the mast to makes sure there is a circuit. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test that?


While I'm testing the wind instruments it makes sense to test the lights to make sure there are no bad connections. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test this?

Usually wind instruments (except for the wireless kind) are connected to the system with a long wire and a single plug at the top of the mast.

To test my mast head unit I have a spare wire with the identical plug. I connect this wire to my instruments and plug the mast head unit into it. I can blow on the cups and twirl the vane and watch the displays.

I know you want to test the connector at the top. I guess you could inspect it closely when the mast is down.Or, if you know the pin/wire configuratoin you could test it for continuity with an ohm meter or continuity tester.

Otherwise, to test the connection and the wires, twist together any two wires at the foot of the mast, then at the mast head connection test continuity between all possible pairs of pins. Some combination should show 0 ohms. Write down the colors/pins. Try other pairs until you have it all tested.

[Bandoleer]

Thanks everyone. Sorry for repeating myself. I'm not use to this forum.
I will heed your advice on buying something less expensive. It just popped up first on the almighty web search!

[Bandoleer]

I read through the PDF Hobby sent and it is very helpful. Thank you.

[tkeithlu]

If the bulbs are incandescent, expect a few ohms for each on your multimeter, reading from red (positive) wire to ground (black wire) on each. If you get infinite ohms (OL on most meters) the bulb is burned out.

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by Bandoleer

I have had issues where the plug connection fails, the wires come loose or are corroded, so once all is in place and before stepping the mast, I want to make sure that I have a circuit. My idea it is use the tester with probes on either side of the connector at the bottom of the mast to makes sure there is a circuit. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test that?

It sounds like all you are trying to do is to test the continuity of the wire from bottom to top. I correct this is very simple.

When you get your meter, set it to Ohms or Resistance. It may have a range setting, if so use the lowest range. In Ohms the meter will put out a small known voltage and then read the current flow, also very small, from this it infers the resistance. When you touch the leads together you should get some very low reading, about 1 ohm.

Next you get a 60' piece of wire, object one lead to one end and the other lead to the other end. You will get a slightly larger resistance. Write that down.

Now stretch the wire out along the mast and using some alligator clips connect the long wire to one wire in the base, any wire. Now at the mast head connect one meter lead to the long wire and touch the pins in the mast head connection one at a time until you get a reading. Draw a picture of the mast head connection and write the reading down nest to the wire it was from. Do this for all wires.

Subtract the resistance of the long wire from the resistance found at the mast head and that is the resistance of any one wire. They should all be pretty close. If you have a wire where you get a drastically different reading, or no reading, that is a problem.

While I'm testing the wind instruments it makes sense to test the lights to make sure there are no bad connections. If I get a multimeter / continuity tester will I be able to test this?

Yes, read the resistance between 2 wires. You will get the total resistance of the 2 wires plus the resistance of the bulb. The bulb will likely be a like 10 or 20 Ohms, unless it is LED.
LET'S will be different.