Why do we still use cigarette-lighter adapters?

[GordMay]

I used NEMA type "ML-1" Midget locking devices ML-1R, & ML-1P [“R” receptacle, “P” Male Plug]
➥ https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums....html#post3097

ML1-P ➥ http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/pdf/22657.pdf

[Jdege]

There another side to this that hasn't been mentioned.

USB-PD "negotiates" voltage and current to match the requirements of the device. But a lot of our DC devices are pretty stupid.

You can replace most of your AC->DC wall-warts with USB-PD cables that contain the necessary circuitry to negotiate a specific voltage:

If, say, you have a device that's powered by an AC wall wart, you can replace that with a USB-PD cable that contains the circuitry to negotiate the same voltage that the wall-wart outputs.

An example: DSD TECH MagicConn USB Type C PD to DC Power Cable-12V

[Statistical]

Originally Posted by Jdege

There another side to this that hasn't been mentioned.

USB-PD "negotiates" voltage and current to match the requirements of the device. But a lot of our DC devices are pretty stupid.

You can replace most of your AC->DC wall-warts with USB-PD cables that contain the necessary circuitry to negotiate a specific voltage:

If, say, you have a device that's powered by an AC wall wart, you can replace that with a USB-PD cable that contains the circuitry to negotiate the same voltage that the wall-wart outputs.

An example: DSD TECH MagicConn USB Type C PD to DC Power Cable-12V

Now that actually is pretty cool. It make a usb-c port with pd a true "universal" power port.

Not just for a boat I just hate the pile of one off chargers and power adapters for random stuff.

[guitarrich]

Not my idea, but a while ago I read about a great idea for dc power sockets. The idea was to use the same connectors as we use in professional audio gear, such as microphone plugs. These are 3-pin, so no issues with orientation. The pins are much much bigger than usb connectors, so less of a problem with corrosion. And they are snug, so much better than cigar lighter plugs.
Naturally you have to make up your own leads: 3-pin to usb so you can charge stuff etc, but it seems to me a great interconnect system for dc power. I first saw this idea before the rise of usb sockets, but I still think it has legs.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by ChrisJHC

I know these are around for historical reasons, however the world is moving towards USB A and C adapters.

In most cases there is a cigarette-lighter to USB adapter permanently mounted in the socket.

I regularly get corrosion in the socket that can lead to poor connections. I also assume that there is some loss by introducing an extra adapter.

Is there a reason we continue to use these adapters rather than directly wiring in a USB A and C socket?

Absolutely there is! There are still large battery or power uses that require that plug. For instance I have a CPAP machine that uses about 3.8 Amh. It does not run off of batteries so in 8 hours I use about 27 Amh a night. I can run it off an inverter but the inverted uses more Amh due to the loss in conversion. To make it run directly from DC, I bought the 12V power supply from the manufacturer for $80. I just plug it in to a cigarette size plug and use as normal.

There are also some larger items like handheld spot lights that require this size plug. Not “everything” is a rechargeable item. The beauty of these is you buy small multi plug USB adapters that you can plug into them and charge multiple devices off of them.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by Chotu

USB suffers the same corrosion problems. You can fix it once or twice with a small piece of Emory board (cardboard nail file)Thankfully a new cable fixes it usually if it’s beyond that.

I’m not sure why anyone uses those. I haven’t used one in 10 years. On boats or RVs. I hard wire in USB ports everywhere so no other adapter is needed.

I have found if you shrink wrap around the connection it will last much, much longer. You can buy these from any hardware store. You do need a heat gun. As portable hair dryers aren’t hot enough. To keep the inside of the adapter free from corrosion you can pick up sprays that eliminate moisture. Anyone who owned a British made car with Lucas electrical parts knows what I’m talking about!

[OS2Dude]

I have a 'cigarette' style power plug because it works. It also lets me move things like my spotlight between the boat and car. NO, I'm not going to rewire my car to USB...

[Jdege]

I'm in the process of rewiring and repowering a boat. I'm showing today, but without either starter or house bank.

Just so I'd have power for the bilge pumps, I've wired the 30A 12V output from my Bluetti AC200MAX to my house and ground distribution blocks.

I cut the ends off a 12AWG extension cord. On one end I crimped ring terminals, the other I soldered to a HE21 2 Pin Circular Connector:



It's an IP68 connection, and it seems like a good choice for carrying low voltage, moderate current DC.

[MJH]

Originally Posted by ChrisJHC

I know these are around for historical reasons, however the world is moving towards USB A and C adapters.

In most cases there is a cigarette-lighter to USB adapter permanently mounted in the socket.

I regularly get corrosion in the socket that can lead to poor connections. I also assume that there is some loss by introducing an extra adapter.

Is there a reason we continue to use these adapters rather than directly wiring in a USB A and C socket?

Simply, because it's there. I don't reconfigure my boat to keep up with the current trend. Everything I need works with what I have installed. A time will come when that changes and that's when I'll reconfigure.

[Jdege]

Originally Posted by MJH

Simply, because it's there. I don't reconfigure my boat to keep up with the current trend. Everything I need works with what I have installed. A time will come when that changes and that's when I'll reconfigure.

I'm in the process of rewiring a boat. Currently it doesn't even have nav lights.

When I get to doing the interior DC wiring I'll probably go with USB-PD. But I don't know if I'd have bothered, if I wasn't rewiring anyway.

[s/v Jedi]

If you want better and/or more power, then you simply go to Anderson connectors. These Powerpole outlets do 30A each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VWXXYG

[Jdege]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

If you want better and/or more power, then you simply go to Anderson connectors.

I'm using Anderson SB120s on my electric motors - 96A at 48V.
But the only thing running on my house bank is the bilge pump, for now, and it's never going to be more than pumps and lights and electronics. 30A is plenty.

The Bluetti has four 12V ports, a 10A cigarette lighter port, two DC5521 10A ports, and this 30A "RV" port. The RV port is the one least likely to pull out accidentally.

[jr_spyder]

I haven’t seen anyone mention this yet but I’ve always been curious (or worried) that a USB outlet, when powered but not in use, creates a small parasitic load on the batteries all the time. I’m sure it is tiny, but it can add up when you away from the boat. Of course you can turn off the circuit and should as a good practice, but nonetheless I don’t like parasitic loads.

[Trimaran Ken]

Originally Posted by ChrisJHC

Is there a reason we continue to use these adapters rather than directly wiring in a USB A and C socket?

The reason is because higher voltage and power are needed. On my boat:

1. My inverter which I use to charge 24 volt lithium batteries and run my coffee grinder.
2. My electric air pump which inflates my dinghy.
3. A power supply/charger for a computer which will not run or charge on 5v.
4. The charger for my high powered spot light.

[Statistical]

Originally Posted by Trimaran Ken

The reason is because higher voltage and power are needed. On my boat:

1. My inverter which I use to charge 24 volt lithium batteries and run my coffee grinder.
2. My electric air pump which inflates my dinghy.
3. A power supply/charger for a computer which will not run or charge on 5v.
4. The charger for my high powered spot light.

To be clear usb-c isn't just 5V anymore. Usb PD supports voltages up to 20V (100W max). Well technically newest version supports voltages up to 48V (240W max) although I have never seen a marine/RV usb-c outlet support anything beyond 20V.

So in your situation it isn't need higher voltage it is simply you have stuff with that connector which is a perfectly viable reason.