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Janet · 07-11-2010, 15:17

I left my dinghy in the water for way too long, and it developed a grass skirt. I have gotten rid of the skirt, but it left behind some very stubborn blackening. It is hard to tell if the stains are surface dirt or discoloration of the dinghy. This is important because I am going to apply Tuff-Kote, which needs a clean surface. If the blackening is dirt, I have to get it off, but if it is discoloration, I shouldn't have to.

I have tried all kinds of cleaners, including acid-based cleaners, and I can't get rid of it. The only thing that works is the grinding tip on a Dremel (which I discovered accidentally while using it to flip a barnacle loose). I rejected cleaning the whole thing with a Dremel tip, because it would take too long

and more importantly, I'm pretty sure it was taking part of the surface off as well as the stains.

The challenge question is: will this blackening prevent adhesion of the Tuff-Kote? And if so, how can it be cleaned away?

Janet
Wildfire (1990 Irwin 38 CC)

gettinthere · 07-11-2010, 15:58

Tuff Kote recommends using zylene to clean hypalon before painting.

Be prepared that Tuff Kote abrades very easily. Not very Tuff at all. If your dink really looks bad then paint it, but be prepared that it scratches off easily.

You may find that cleaning with zylene is enough by itself

RaySea Lady · 07-11-2010, 16:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet

I left my dinghy in the water for way too long, and it developed a grass skirt. I have gotten rid of the skirt, but it left behind some very stubborn blackening. It is hard to tell if the stains are surface dirt or discoloration of the dinghy. This is important because I am going to apply Tuff-Kote, which needs a clean surface. If the blackening is dirt, I have to get it off, but if it is discoloration, I shouldn't have to.

I have tried all kinds of cleaners, including acid-based cleaners, and I can't get rid of it. The only thing that works is the grinding tip on a Dremel (which I discovered accidentally while using it to flip a barnacle loose). I rejected cleaning the whole thing with a Dremel tip, because it would take too long

and more importantly, I'm pretty sure it was taking part of the surface off as well as the stains.

The challenge question is: will this blackening prevent adhesion of the Tuff-Kote? And if so, how can it be cleaned away?

Janet
Wildfire (1990 Irwin 38 CC)

I have had some success in cleaning mine with Gojo Pummice hand soap and also with a product called Super Clean from walmart. It is a degreaser product. My nautica is as white as new.

zeehag · 07-11-2010, 16:23

i have found in many cases the yukky dark residue on my dinks came off nicely with baby butt wipes and a lil rubbing. surprised the dickens out of me and i learned it by accident--i use huggies brand ones anyway for hand cleaning-- gooodluck.

Geminidawn · 07-11-2010, 16:34

Toulene is what I use to clean and degrease before I set about doing any repairs, it is the solvent recommended by the makers of Hypalon.

clsailor · 07-11-2010, 17:18

This is a product that I have used for years on my Avon Hypalon RIB. It works well and with some elbow grease will work on heavy stains. TR Seapower Inflatable Boat Cleaner and Preserver. Contains-petroleum distillate, turpentine, morpholine and earth minerals.

**Jim Cate** · 07-11-2010, 18:41

G'Day Janet,

We've recently had good luck cleaning our hypalon dink with household mold remover. Seems to be a mix of sodium hypochlorate (bleach) and sodium hydroxide (lye). Sounds nast, probably is, so wear gloves like it says on the sprayer. Let it sit for a few minutes, scrub with a Scotchbrite pad... presto, the green/black stain is gone! Stuff we used is the local no-frills "home brand", but all the similar products we checked had the same stuff in them, and this was dirt cheap. You'll never find it at Worst Marine...

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Gladstone Qld Oz, southbound

phantomracer · 07-11-2010, 18:56

my new favorite cleaner is 'marine clean' by POR15. Made for the automotive industry (despite the marine name). Insanely cheap (can dilute it a lot) and works well for just about every cleaning job I have thrown at it.

I also used commercial cleaner from west marine for inflatables which worked quite well.

senormechanico · 07-11-2010, 20:08

A little Muriatic Acid goes a long way.
Use gloves. It won't hurt the dink.

Janet · 08-11-2010, 07:04

Wow, thanks to all! I have a number of options to try and will post how it turned out.

capt_douglas · 08-11-2010, 09:32

I've used orange Gojo hand cleaner, the heavy duty stuff. Seems to do a great job and doesn't appear to scuff the Hypalon.

Rick · 08-11-2010, 09:40

Apply a product named Rydlyme. It will remove things and stains otherwise only removable using mechanical means

Janet · 08-11-2010, 11:47

I've been using mildew remover -- a simple home product -- with Comet and steel wool, and having a very gratifying effect. Still a lot of elbow grease needed, but nothing else I tried worked at all. I figured since this was some kind of vegetation, and mold and mildew are vegetation, mildew remover was what I would try first. I think I have some Gojo around and I'll see if that works any faster.

Thanks to everyone who replied! My back aches, I'm sunburned and my manicure is toast, but the dinghy is getting cleaner!