Yanmar 2gm20f manual hand crank start?

[Aklein620]

Just got this boat and I’m wondering if this cover is hiding the spot you would use a crank to manually start the motor? I havnt been able to loosen the Philips head screws to look myself

[jimbojonesbos]

After spending a few minutes with the hand crank that was in my 2fm20f powerwd boat when I bought it trying as you are to figure out where it goes, I did some research and the fresh water cooled gm series are not set up for hand cranking.

[Aklein620]

Originally Posted by jimbojonesbos

After spending a few minutes with the hand crank that was in my 2fm20f powerwd boat when I bought it trying as you are to figure out where it goes, I did some research and the fresh water cooled gm series are not set up for hand cranking.

This motor appears to have the same raw water intake cooling system as my last yanmar but does also have some sort of small coolant tank which is very confusing to me . Would also love if someone could shed some light on that

[jimbojonesbos]

The "f" in the engine model stands for fresh. The seawater cools the engine coolant loop which has antifreeze in it. Sea water does not circulate through the block.

A sea water cooled engine , 2gm20, no f,
Has sea.water flowing through the block, there is no coolant reservoir our heat exchanger.

[Aklein620]

Originally Posted by jimbojonesbos

The "f" in the engine model stands for fresh. The seawater cools the engine coolant loop which has antifreeze in it. Sea water does not circulate through the block.

A sea water cooled engine , 2gm20, no f,
Has sea.water flowing through the block, there is no coolant reservoir our heat exchanger.

Roger that thank you

[skipperpete]

You can use the manual starting feature on your 2GM20 but you might have to buy a crank handle. After you get the blanking cover off, you might see that the cross pin and locating screw is missing...... both are required for the crank handle to engage.
The small coolant tank is called an “expansion tank” and should be connected to the heat exchanger at the pressure cap. It accommodates the thermal contraction and expansion of the coolant during engine operation.
Pete.

[Kessler]

Hello all! I'm new to this forum,

Anybody have any idea how difficult it is to change the motor mounts on the 2gm20f? I'm looking to buy a 94' Hunter 30T and the surveyor says it needs new motor mounts. Anybody had to do that on their own Yanmar 2gm20?

Thanks for your input.

[lockie]

Kessler;

It is a fairly complex but quite doable job if you're handy. There are any number of threads covering this in CH and elsewhere. Have a look at a few of those to begin with. I did my 2GM a few years ago and it was really hard because the engine bed height made it hard to find mounts low enough to suit. Without that it would have been just plain labourious, but certainly not rocket science.

Cheers, Graeme

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by Kessler

Hello all! I'm new to this forum,



Anybody have any idea how difficult it is to change the motor mounts on the 2gm20f? I'm looking to buy a 94' Hunter 30T and the surveyor says it needs new motor mounts. Anybody had to do that on their own Yanmar 2gm20?



Thanks for your input.

It can be very easy but the difficulty increases with the degree of corrosion on the mounts and securing bolts. Access to the mounts in the engine compartment can take the level of difficulty from a 1 to a 10 if its a bad space. Sometimes its easier to remove the mount and the engine bracket as an assembly and fit the new mount on the workbench.
Whichever way you go about doing the job you should dis connect the propeller shaft at the gearbox first and examine the alignment then re align after the new mounts are in place.
Pete.

[Kessler]

Ok, that pretty much answers my question. Thanks guys.

[AA3JY]

Folks..there’s a dedicated Yanmar engine discussion group on FB that are extremely helpful

[NorthCoastJoe]

If you have one or can get one a Hand impact tool will get the screws loose.

[capt jgw]

I had a 2GM not "F" and it had the hand crank. I think on the "F" model the circulating pump interferes with the crank so they don't include it. I tried a few times to hand start, a couple to practice and once for real when all the batteries went flat. Not successfully, so I don't think you're missing much.
As to the motor mounts, I never changed them on that boat, but I did remove the engine once to repair the transmission. I unbolted the mounts from the engine bed and pulled it out into the cabin by myself with just a rope tied around the crankshaft pulley, mounts and all. It's not that heavy. Normally to replace the mounts you would lift the engine enough to get the mounts out from under one at a time. If you don't have enough overhead clearance for that my method might work better. I once read about a slick method to lift a small engine. Deflate a fender, basketball, etc and put it under the oil pan, then reinflate. Amazing lifting power.